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Posted

Hmmmm still on the 2k challenge I see... I must admit that theres an illusion sometimes in that buying the car

and then an engine to use for a conversion seems like you are 90% done already, just bolt it in and away you go!

But when it's hanging off the engine crane and you are trying to position it in the bay then the problems start to roll in...

2k for engine conversion maybe but not for a full car build ie brakes, suspension, engine management, driveline

and exhaust to match etc but give it a go and throw some more money at it later I guess.

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Posted

Fastest? is this as in, what is cheap and easy to do, which will give good results for a dedicated track car, that can be a little bit dodgey?

Look at some of the tried and true methods. For under $2,000

 

T series diff out of a RT Corona (leaf sprung already) I've got one from an RT104 that was taking a LOT of abuse from an SR20, so they are strong enough.

3.8 Commo engine. Either track down a manual, or, for cheaper and easier, go auto and mess with it. There's simple ways to lock toyota autos, so I don't imagine it would be much harder with a Holden tranny.

Necessary fuel line stuff, pump lines filters etc.

Straight pipe, out the side (for extra cool) exhaust

Properly made and balanced tailshaft. Please don't scrimp on this.

R31 front struts with cheap/nasty coilovers...

 

I do think this could be collected for under $2,000

 

You end up with:

Big vented rotors on the front, and bigger drums on the rear

T series goodness for not so much crunch-snap

Decent enough power and torque for hauling around a short course/hill climb/motorkhana

4x114.3 PCD converted for uber rim selection

 

Things to remember. It's often cheaper to buy a whole crashed commo at auctions. Pickles in WA often has manual V6 commos go for as little as $500-$700 for the whole car.

T series diffs out of the Coronas are a decent piece of kit, though the spring seat mounts are different. Weld on a piece of 5mm plate... problem solvered

Use a factory Auto KE20 if possible... Larger trans tunnel may negate the need to cut it up. I can't say exactly, but if you're using a manualised Auto, then there's no clutch to screw around with. Muchos Easyos

R31 struts bolt up to KE20 control arms on the bottom, but will need springs and stuff sorted to fit at the top... If you got any nounce, you should be able to work something out with that.

 

Things I don't know...

If the sump on the V6 will be easy, How much clearance for exhaust (Not that it matters... It's a track car, just cut a straight pipe through the side of the front quarter for the flames to come out. :P) I'm told it's been done before, so there's obviously a way to do it...

 

As with any conversion, things can get real expensive, real quick. But, with track only cars, so long as you have regular chats with the people who are approving cars to run at the events, and keep them happy. things CAN be done cheaply by those with even a little bit of skill. I know of a speedway car that is regularly (about every second meet) grinding back and re-welding the snapped engine mounts they are running. The guy can't weld to save his life, but they look good enough to keep inspectors happy, so that's good enough for him)

 

and finally, Safety first. Don't forget your seatbelt, roll cage for WHEN you flip it, and lots of tires to smoke.

Posted

I did my 2tgeu engine conversion for under 2k.

 

Complete engine $1400, did all workyself ended up costing $1900 with fuel pumps and what not. No heavy modifications. Worst thing will be engine cross member. I would really recommend getting a hot 5k save yourself alot of headaches.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Update..

 

picked up that vr commy for 200 bucks! he got desperate for cash.

 

so 3.8 v6 in ke20 it is.

 

i would like a manual, but they're expensive, so i guess i'll see what i can do with the auto.

 

Both of my ke20's are manuals, so i am thinking i will try and cut the tunnel from the vr, and weld it into the 20.

 

so..

 

$2000 - $200 = $1800.. but i reckon i can sell what is left of the commy for more than 200 lol :)

Posted

Fastest? is this as in, what is cheap and easy to do, which will give good results for a dedicated track car, that can be a little bit dodgey?

Look at some of the tried and true methods. For under $2,000

 

T series diff out of a RT Corona (leaf sprung already) I've got one from an RT104 that was taking a LOT of abuse from an SR20, so they are strong enough.

3.8 Commo engine. Either track down a manual, or, for cheaper and easier, go auto and mess with it. There's simple ways to lock toyota autos, so I don't imagine it would be much harder with a Holden tranny.

Necessary fuel line stuff, pump lines filters etc.

Straight pipe, out the side (for extra cool) exhaust

Properly made and balanced tailshaft. Please don't scrimp on this.

R31 front struts with cheap/nasty coilovers...

 

I do think this could be collected for under $2,000

 

You end up with:

Big vented rotors on the front, and bigger drums on the rear

T series goodness for not so much crunch-snap

Decent enough power and torque for hauling around a short course/hill climb/motorkhana

4x114.3 PCD converted for uber rim selection

 

Things to remember. It's often cheaper to buy a whole crashed commo at auctions. Pickles in WA often has manual V6 commos go for as little as $500-$700 for the whole car.

T series diffs out of the Coronas are a decent piece of kit, though the spring seat mounts are different. Weld on a piece of 5mm plate... problem solvered

Use a factory Auto KE20 if possible... Larger trans tunnel may negate the need to cut it up. I can't say exactly, but if you're using a manualised Auto, then there's no clutch to screw around with. Muchos Easyos

R31 struts bolt up to KE20 control arms on the bottom, but will need springs and stuff sorted to fit at the top... If you got any nounce, you should be able to work something out with that.

 

Things I don't know...

If the sump on the V6 will be easy, How much clearance for exhaust (Not that it matters... It's a track car, just cut a straight pipe through the side of the front quarter for the flames to come out. :P) I'm told it's been done before, so there's obviously a way to do it...

 

As with any conversion, things can get real expensive, real quick. But, with track only cars, so long as you have regular chats with the people who are approving cars to run at the events, and keep them happy. things CAN be done cheaply by those with even a little bit of skill. I know of a speedway car that is regularly (about every second meet) grinding back and re-welding the snapped engine mounts they are running. The guy can't weld to save his life, but they look good enough to keep inspectors happy, so that's good enough for him)

 

and finally, Safety first. Don't forget your seatbelt, roll cage for WHEN you flip it, and lots of tires to smoke.

 

Yes harness and roll cage will be high on the list of priorities, and i'll keep an eye out for the t series diff (i have a few scrap metal mates that crush whole cars like that) or any hilux etc diff.. i'll probably try a cut and shut unbalanced tailshaft (with loops) to get it running, then take that to a shop and get a real one made.

Posted (edited)

a concern i do have is making it handle with 100+ extra kg under the bonnet, plus whatever extra the tranny will weigh.. cross that bridge later ;)

 

 

Till him/her to catch the bus.

 

i like the idea of a v6, so cheap the engines, and have a fair bit of grunt to them. good luck with it.

Edited by ke70dave
Posted

Till him/her to catch the bus.

 

i like the idea of a v6, so cheap the engines, and have a fair bit of grunt to them. good luck with it.

 

lmao.. not that kind of tranny

yep 180ish hp and easy to make more with simple mods..

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