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Posted

So I finally got my Ke70 rgistered yesterday, and as of today it's been having trouble idleing.

Every time it's out of gear and my foots of the accelerator the revs drop right down. I've heard it may be the fuel filter so I flushed that out, also flushed the fuel line into that went from the filter to the carby and that seemed to work for a minute but yeah, it's gone back to how it was.

Any ideas guys?

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Posted
Every time it's out of gear and my foots of the accelerator the revs drop right down

 

Does it stall?? Check the fuel cut-off solenoid, or a blocked idle jet.

 

Does it just continue to idle roughly at really low revs? Wind up the idle speed and adjust the idle mixture screw. If the idle mixture screw does nothing you may have dirt in the idle jet.

 

If the car was sitting for 6months you should pull the carb apart and blow petrol through the jets and drilings with a syringe or compressed air. Although before you do that, check the points gap and timing... worn points and retarded timing lowers the idle speed, and that's easier to check than cleaning a carb.

Posted

The car was sitting for a lot more than 6 months. I don't even know where the screws are haha.

It will occasionally just idle rough at really low revs, well thats what it was doing at first, but then it started doing this.

I've never done timing but I'll read up on it, and have a look at what I can do, as for points, I have no clue on that either haha.

Looks like this is going to be a long process with my lack of knowledge haha. Cheers for the help.

Posted

To adjust timing loosen carbi and turn it slightly revs will increase. Points are a little difficult to explain, grab a service manual and read up, not hard to do.

I had the same problem, adjusted timing and points to find it didn't really help I replaced carbi just to find that I still had the same problem. I changed fuel filter and the last thing I did was replace the fuel line to find that was the problem :bash: common problem when they have been sitting for awhile.

Posted

George you had a senior moment writing that... change 'carbi' to 'dizzy'...

 

fkj- see if you can buy a manual for it, there are several different versions published, and just Google "setting points" for videos on how to do it. I think I loaded one into the technical forum a month back. Once you have the timing correct then tackle the carb, which is where I expect the problem to be. You might have to blow compressed air down the fuel lines to clear them.

 

If you get stuck just shoot me a PM.

Posted

I just noticed that since I flushed out through the fuel filter, it idles fine, until I start driving.

Like I can start the car, and it will sit and idle for as long as I leave it, but then I start driving, and once I get up to speed, and past second gear, it stops idleing, which makes even less sense to me. Should I still be taking the same plan of attack?

The fact that I can drive along in first, and then put in the clutch and it idles fine, but if I try to do the same in second, it wont idle, just doesnt make any sense to me.

Posted (edited)

Thrash the tits off of it. Blow out the cobwebs. check timing. Points, leads, plugs . General service. Check for vac leaks.

Edited by B.L.Z.BUB
Posted

Just noticed that this is broken, had a bit of glue holding it on, don't know if this matters, or affects the idleing, but I'm gonna go buy a new one of whatever this is next week.

30032012.jpg

Posted

It's for emissions gear. Unscrew the whole thing and put a bolt in the hole. You don't need it. Ate there any pipes, outlets or hoses coming out of the carbie that aren't blocked off or connected to something

Posted

I'm thinking I'm just going to get the carby reconditioned, and hope that does the trick. Cheers guys.

Posted
Are there any pipes, outlets or hoses coming out of the carbie that aren't blocked off or connected to something

 

This is the big question! Is there a vac line disconnected that opens up when the motor gets warm or goes under power?? The top rad hose connection usually has a triple vac hose connector that opens a different set of valves as the water temp gets up. All part of the emissions gear. As blzbub said, you can block the whole lot off except the vac advance to the dizzy, but you can't afford to have any leaking.

 

Might not be the carb at all...

Posted

The only ones that weren't connected/sealed are the ones in the pic I posted, just sealed them but will have to wait 'till tomorrow to see if that helps, as I'm heading to work now :n:

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