ninja-philbo Posted September 22, 2012 Report Posted September 22, 2012 loving the crossmember hurry up and get it in i wanna know how it feels Quote
philbey Posted September 23, 2012 Report Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Mate keen to see how this crossmember goes! Just a pointer with spot Putty, it's a single pack so it takes a long time to dry and contracts a lot more than bog; fill to deep and you'll find it'll depress quite a bit over time. Much easier to work than bog like you've discovered, but just keep an eye on it cos it's a trap I fell into long ago, filling to deep then having to rework it after I'd primed it up. Edited September 23, 2012 by philbey Quote
Jono.C Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Yep that's exactly what my old man said, so I put it on pretty thick and left it overnight to dry I used it a bit on the green ke10 before I sprayed it just to get it completely smooth, much better than filler for small stuff Edited September 23, 2012 by Jono.C Quote
ninja-philbo Posted September 24, 2012 Report Posted September 24, 2012 hows the crossmember going Quote
Jono.C Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Posted September 24, 2012 Hasn't moved, I've been getting the boot lid ready to go on. I still need to research struts as I may go a different direction with this than I was first going to.. I thought today about mounting the castor rod setup etc in it and how I'll do it, as I wasn't too keen on the ideal of drilling holes in my chassis rail.. Quote
ninja-philbo Posted September 25, 2012 Report Posted September 25, 2012 i can understand that. I'm trying to find a ke30 k frame atm to mount my ke70 gear in Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Posted September 25, 2012 To be honest for yours I'd just redrill the ke70 engine crossmember.. there's not a heap of difference in width.. just drill it, fit and you're done Quote
ninja-philbo Posted September 25, 2012 Report Posted September 25, 2012 hmm worried about it giving me too much track but might look into it. Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Posted September 25, 2012 Run different lca's or re-drill the lca mounting point. Ke70 lcas are shorter than '55.. pretty sure the track is around the same, easier to make that work than make brackets Quote
ninja-philbo Posted September 25, 2012 Report Posted September 25, 2012 dammit shouldnt of thrown those ke70 arms out. could always run crazy camper lol. Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Posted September 25, 2012 Why not? Everyone else with a ke70 does.. Even though they don't know what it does haha Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Posted September 25, 2012 It'll be fully sik though. I only want -1 to 1.5 and thats it. I don't want it for show or for tyre wear to show off to people at the maccas car park. Just adding a touch of negative camber instead of the positive it has now, and a bit of castor adjustment will make it crazy better to drive Quote
ninja-philbo Posted September 25, 2012 Report Posted September 25, 2012 yeah. i might look into how it sits with the ke30 arms for now worst case il grab some ke70 arms if its still stupid il mod a ke30 cradle. cars come so far man i love the early girls Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Posted September 25, 2012 Body is still pretty average on it.. I've nearly finished the boot at least.. Then i need to tidy the rest of it up.. Get this front end together, engine and manual conversion in, need to change the inner door handle to the later model, change the seats to something more buckety etc.. Then start planning the engine conversion and whoring bits to get that all done Quote
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