Best Oil To Use?

[jordan101]

I've done some research on the internet but would just like some clarification. My car has 310,000 km's i've read that the thicker the oil the better it is to make up for "play" in worn parts in the motor. I've read of people 10w30 but i've also rad about full synthetic 5w30 being better, what would you blokes recomend?

[ForzaAE92]

Well for starters, all oils have the same viscosity at operating temperature.

 

Does the engine use much oil at the moment? If so, a thicker oil will help stabilise and lower the oil consumption rate.

 

As for best oil, if you have the money Mobil 1 is the "best" oil.

[philbey]

If you've got a cranky old k that uses oil and has a few leaks, just stick with 20w50. Otherwise the leaks will get worse and your burn just got more expensive.

[jordan101]

@ForzaAE92 i've only owned the car for about 2 weeks and only driven it a few times so don't know how much oil it burns.

 

@Philbey It's a 22R it's got no leaks.

 

the front end is on jack stands at the moment doing the discs and few other things for RWC so i thought that i may aswell change the oil while it's jacked up

[altezzaclub]

I use 20W-50 in the KE70 & the '88 Pintara. They're pretty low-tech engines that don't see high revs.

[ke70dave]

Well for starters, all oils have the same viscosity at operating temperature.

 

hmmmmm i don't think so. :hmm:

[warrenfromtonny]

This is my understanding.

 

First number, with the "W" is the winter viscosity. The lower the number the lower the temperature can be before the viscosity is comprimised, i.e. not in the operating range. These are measured at different temperatures depending on the SAE grade of oil.

 

The second number (SAE) is the operating viscosity, measured at a standard of 100 deg C. The higher the number the thicker the oil at 100 degrees.

 

Hope that clears things up.

 

And I run 20W-60 in my k series, give it a warm up before taking off in the morning.

 

Matt

[Figjam14]

Redline

[jordan101]

This is my understanding.

 

First number, with the "W" is the winter viscosity. The lower the number the lower the temperature can be before the viscosity is comprimised, i.e. not in the operating range. These are measured at different temperatures depending on the SAE grade of oil.

 

The second number (SAE) is the operating viscosity, measured at a standard of 100 deg C. The higher the number the thicker the oil at 100 degrees.

 

Hope that clears things up.

 

And I run 20W-60 in my k series, give it a warm up before taking off in the morning.

 

Matt

 

I've got 3 x 5Litre bottles of 20W50 sitting in my garage, you reckon just use that?

[19914afc]

yep that will do fine :)

[Hiro Protagonist]

This is my understanding.

 

First number, with the "W" is the winter viscosity. The lower the number the lower the temperature can be before the viscosity is comprimised, i.e. not in the operating range. These are measured at different temperatures depending on the SAE grade of oil.

 

The second number (SAE) is the operating viscosity, measured at a standard of 100 deg C. The higher the number the thicker the oil at 100 degrees.

 

Hope that clears things up.

 

And I run 20W-60 in my k series, give it a warm up before taking off in the morning.

 

Matt

 

Sort-off. The numbers aren't actually viscosity, they are _relative_ viscosity - ie a 20W50 oil has the same viscosity as a straight 20-weight oil when cold, but has modififers that give it the viscosity of a straight 50-weight at operating temperature. The oil is still thinner when warm (despite the larger number), it just isn't _AS_ thin as it would be if it was a straight 20-weight oil.

[styler]

Well for starters, all oils have the same viscosity at operating temperature.

Not quite, in fact it's measured at 100 deg c and there a table of kinematic viscosity of straight weight oils.

(kinematic viscosity being a fancy word for thickness)

 

Multigrade oils have viscosity improvers which are long polymers which are curled up when cold and unwind when they get cold

effectively thickening the thinned oil at a higher temp back to normal viscosity. These shear during oil life and thin the oil

back to its lighter multigrade weight so remember to change your oil or you will be running thinned out oil when hot.

 

Older motors really need zinc and phosphorus additives which are now low in current standards of oil, they are wear additives

and are great but they affect the new three way cat convertors so were lowered to small amounts. Buy oil with lots of zinc /

phosphorus if you can often marketed as older car motor oil.

 

Use a good oil filter, lots of them out there are absolute rubbish and don't include an antidrainback valve or a pressure

bypass valve, you are best off cutting them open and having a look to see features and construction.

 

And my recommendation for us corolla enthusiasts... the best by far is brad penn oil and a good filter (hint ebay and youtube)

 

Just for interest oils aint oils, theres anything from group 1 mineral, group 2 mineral, group 3 mineral, group 3 hydrocracked,

group 4 pao synthetic and group 5 synthetic esters for a start!

[19914afc]

Genuine filter, not usually much more than a non gen.