kazzpog33 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 hi.. anyone have an idea why my 3k knock at idle only? the knocking sounds happens with an interval around 2-3 seconds but when I put the gas on, it went away... Does it went away or i just don't hear it since the engine rev is what Am i hearing..? Thanks in Advance.! Quote
GJM85 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 Knock knock... Who's there? 3k!... 3k who>? 3k Energy, and you are paying too much for your electricity!... Welcome to Australia ʞ©$ɟA! Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 Does the oil light go out instantly when you start it?? Does the oil light glimmer a little at idle when warm?? The oil pump is at its worst when going slowly at idle, so any lack of oil pressure will be noticed then. Even worn bearings are more noticeable at idle, so it could be that. Is it a distinct heavy clonk, not a tapping sound? Culprits could be big end bearings, main bearings, piston ring broken or small end bearing.... or a tappet problem, but none of them are really at such a long interval. Timing chain would be another suspect, it may rattle evey couple of seconds as it whips the slack in and out. They go silent under load. I did have a ring break and it tapped away at the lights suddenly one day then vanished. Wheh it came back the week after it was very noticeable and had eaten a hole in the edge of the piston! Quote
kazzpog33 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks Altezza.. Does the oil light go out instantly when you start it?? Yes! Does the oil light glimmer a little at idle when warm?? No!! i think its a heavy clonk and not a tapping sound.. it sounds like golf ball inside a jar... Do you think its time for the K to get out of the car for rebuild? I also notice some few oil leaks at the bellhousing but its not coming from the top.. maybe from crank end seal? Thanks... Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 Crank end seal or rear of that terrible sump gasket... So, it doesn't sound like the bearings are worn out., and the timing chain is more of a clatter. What timing advance are you running at idle? Can you post up a video of it?? Even just a sound file. Quote
kazzpog33 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Posted February 10, 2012 it doesnt sound like a bearing for me but instead a piston hitting on something hard. i will try to upload a video or recorded sound tomorrow... thanks for help.. Quote
kazzpog33 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Posted February 10, 2012 I'm running 700 rpm @ idle.. Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 I wondered if it was too advanced at idle so it either detonates or tries to run backwards every few seconds... I can't really think of much else that would cause an intermittent clonk. Lets see what it sounds like..... Quote
GJM85 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) thrust washer... piston slap? heavily worn rings or broken skirts? Edited February 10, 2012 by GJM85 Quote
JordyKE Posted February 10, 2012 Report Posted February 10, 2012 Had the same problem with mine mate. A while ago. I had spun a big end bearing which created a fairly heavy knocking noise like the one you suggest. And if you don't get too it soon it will chew out the crank like it did in mine. I don't think it would be your timing chain, mine rattles at the moment, but only for about a second and then goes away. Tapetts wouldn't wouldn't really make a knock. A video will make it easier to identify :) Quote
JamesBowyer Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 its time to pull it out and go 4age POWER!!!:) Quote
kazzpog33 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Posted February 13, 2012 thanks guys for the help... its a worn end bearing...!! Is there anything you can suggest to be replace aside from this bearing? yes it was a greasy weekend and i want everything that is about to collapse be replace before it dies so i wont take this K again up in the hood. is there any other parts which have the same frequency of replacement with this bearing? anyway its my first time to hang up an engine in the garage and this activities take much of my time. (KE35) 1. removing the pipe from the exhaust manifold. (is there a secret access to the bolt?) 2. removing the clutch cable (after some research i found that you need to remove the cable from the clutch pedal) THANKS... Quote
kazzpog33 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) I was thinking of full engine rebuild for this.. any suggestions? Edited February 13, 2012 by kazzpog33 Quote
JordyKE Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) thanks guys for the help... its a worn end bearing...!! Is there anything you can suggest to be replace aside from this bearing? yes it was a greasy weekend and i want everything that is about to collapse be replace before it dies so i wont take this K again up in the hood. is there any other parts which have the same frequency of replacement with this bearing? anyway its my first time to hang up an engine in the garage and this activities take much of my time. (KE35) 1. removing the pipe from the exhaust manifold. (is there a secret access to the bolt?) 2. removing the clutch cable (after some research i found that you need to remove the cable from the clutch pedal) THANKS... Big careful because if you've done/spun a big end bearing that lobe on the crank will never be same, and if it's out by anything at all you'll always get a knock. Exact same thing happened to me. What i've learnt is better to do it right, than have to worry about it later, as that's a pain in the arse. 1. Secret access? Should just be 2 i think...? 2. Much easier to remove from pedal then attack at the gearbox. They are a pain in the arse eitehr way. I've always had trouble with mine. Cheers mate, hope all goes sweet. Edited February 14, 2012 by JordyKE Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 Before you pull it apart, do a compression test. That will give you an idea if you need to replace rings or rebore. Otherwise you can leave the pistons in and just remove the crankshaft for polishing and replace the bearings, & lighten the flywheel, which is what I did. if you're happy to spend the money then either rebore/hone and fit new rings, new bearings, valve grind & skim the head for extra compression. The advantage is that it gets the block stripped and cleaned in an engineer's bath and you can have the whole rotating assembly , pistons/crank/clutch all balanced so it revs smoothly and freely. Quote
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