Run In Rebuilt 7Agte

[ke70dave]

there is soooooooo many oppinions on run in procedure.

 

megasquirt...good choice!

 

see if you can find someone who can give you a reasonable 4agte megasquirt tune (the american megasquirt forums have heaps of guys running them on a 4age/7age)

 

thats what i would be doing to get it going. keep off the loud pedal, get it running, then get it to a tuner.

 

there would be nothing worse than getting your car towed to a tuner, and then having to drag it home again because they can't get it going.

 

have a chat to your tuner before hand though, he may make some suggestions.

 

any good tuner would have had experience tuning brand new engines before.

[shayden]

there is soooooooo many oppinions on run in procedure.

 

megasquirt...good choice!

 

see if you can find someone who can give you a reasonable 4agte megasquirt tune (the american megasquirt forums have heaps of guys running them on a 4age/7age)

 

thats what i would be doing to get it going. keep off the loud pedal, get it running, then get it to a tuner.

 

there would be nothing worse than getting your car towed to a tuner, and then having to drag it home again because they can't get it going.

 

have a chat to your tuner before hand though, he may make some suggestions.

 

any good tuner would have had experience tuning brand new engines before.

 

thanks for the adive mate and hav u had anythin to do with megasquirts ?

[Trev]

there would be nothing worse than getting your car towed to a tuner, and then having to drag it home again because they can't get it going.

 

I would rather pay for towing fees then another engine after an accidental stuff up.

 

I had to pull the engine out of car (owner is on ae86dc, well his brother atleast) after it's first dyno run because when they built it they used the wrong oil pump gasket and then engine was knocking, turned out to just be that they stuffed up doing the flywheel bolts up and the flywheel came loose.

 

Shayden: You are going to have new cams that will need to be run in, best thing to do is to let the tuner sort it all out for you, he will put it on the dyno, set the loading to 2000rpm which will load the engine bedding in the rings and the cams.

Edited January 10, 2012 by Trev

[shayden]

I would rather pay for towing fees then another engine after an accidental stuff up.

 

I had to pull the engine out of car (owner is on ae86dc, well his brother atleast) after it's first dyno run because when they built it they used the wrong oil pump gasket and then engine was knocking, turned out to just be that they stuffed up doing the flywheel bolts up and the flywheel came loose.

 

Shayden: You are going to have new cams that will need to be run in, best thing to do is to let the tuner sort it all out for you, he will put it on the dyno, set the loading to 2000rpm which will load the engine bedding in the rings and the cams.

 

sounds like uve got alot of experience with the whole rebuildin and racin cars ill much rather fork out extra cash for a trailer rather den a new motor thanks :)

[kickn5k]

I'd go with Trev and ke70dave take your time after it's dyno'd give it 500-1000kms to settle. Are the genuine 4agze rings chrome faced? If so it will definatly need to be run in right.

 

Stu.

Edited January 10, 2012 by kickn5k

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Hi there,

 

Everyone will have there own method of running in an engine these days.

I have run in my last two 4age(‘s) and a 4agze by driving them hard ~ by that I do not mean revving the absolute crap out of them in the high rev range, load it up in a higher gear but also let it rev to maybe around 5000rpm but then no mercy after 2000kms.

 

One thing that I do, is change the oils and filters frequently

1st I will run a mineral oil ~ (change the oil and filter after about 100 to 150kms)

2nd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 800kms)

3rd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 1 000kms)

4th high quality synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after every 5 000kms)

 

To me, oil and a filter is cheep compared to a rebuild. At the end of the day how you run it in is up to you

 

I will be doing the exact same thing with my 7AGTE 20V

 

All the best

[shayden]

I'd go with Trev and ke70dave take your time after it's dyno'd give it 500-1000kms to settle. Are the genuine 4agze rings chrome faced? If so it will definatly need to be run in right.

 

Stu.

ill be goin past the shop today to see how there goin and what parts hav arrived ill hav a look what ring there usin as i jus sed get parts to hold upto 40psi n suddenly they jumped n asked how deep are ur pockets so I'm guessin it gna alil pricy lol

[shayden]

Hi there,

 

Everyone will have there own method of running in an engine these days.

I have run in my last two 4age(‘s) and a 4agze by driving them hard ~ by that I do not mean revving the absolute crap out of them in the high rev range, load it up in a higher gear but also let it rev to maybe around 5000rpm but then no mercy after 2000kms.

 

One thing that I do, is change the oils and filters frequently

1st I will run a mineral oil ~ (change the oil and filter after about 100 to 150kms)

2nd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 800kms)

3rd high quality non synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after about 1 000kms)

4th high quality synthetic ~ (change the oil and filter after every 5 000kms)

 

To me, oil and a filter is cheep compared to a rebuild. At the end of the day how you run it in is up to you

 

I will be doing the exact same thing with my 7AGTE 20V

 

id much rather spend 100$ on oil n filters then to do a bottom end rebuild, so ima be changin the oil n filters as much as possible, plus i get them close to free anyway :) peaks to workin in a work shop :)

 

the 20v was an option but bein collectin bits for ova a year now so thort id jus get the bigport n do sum head work on it.. hav u got any specs on ur build yet? what cams, pistons and rods ull be using always interested to see other builds :)

 

 

All the best

Edited January 11, 2012 by shayden

[kickn5k]

ill be goin past the shop today to see how there goin and what parts hav arrived ill hav a look what ring there usin as i jus sed get parts to hold upto 40psi n suddenly they jumped n asked how deep are ur pockets so I'm guessin it gna alil pricy lol

 

Yep if you wanna play with the big boys and run big boost you have to have a big budget. Lol.

I've just done a big boost 4agte for a mate. I'll dig up the specs and post them up here later.

What pistons are you going to be using? Most non custom aftermarket pistons run a "slipper skirt" design and while lighter, tend to collapse on the skirts with big boost The 4agte I just built collapsed the skirts on the first build(not naming brand). I've sent you a pm regarding pistons.

 

Stu.

[_FNQ_rolla_]

hav u got any specs on ur build yet? what cams, pistons and rods ull be using always interested to see other builds :)

 

 

I have been collecting bits and pieces now for about 3 or 4 years and I'm hoping that I will be able to drive my little bomb in June, just waiting on a few key parts to arrive before I can do any more with it.

 

If you want to have a look at what I have done so far have a look at the link My 7AGTE 20V

 

 

If you want to know anything more just ask (PM would be the best way of getting a reply)

[shayden]

I have been collecting bits and pieces now for about 3 or 4 years and I'm hoping that I will be able to drive my little bomb in June, just waiting on a few key parts to arrive before I can do any more with it.

 

If you want to have a look at what I have done so far have a look at the link My 7AGTE 20V

 

 

If you want to know anything more just ask (PM would be the best way of getting a reply)

 

thanks for all your help, ive bein tryna search for the arp bolt issue can't seem to find it anywer..

[_FNQ_rolla_]

ive bein tryna search for the arp bolt issue can't seem to find it anywer..

 

Yeah, be careful with the tolerance if using the ARP head studs. You will have to watch where the oil flows up to the head. (The ARP stud can restrict the oil flow and starve the head of oil)

 

Go to page 14 on my thread and have a read.