Ke20 4Link Rearend Setups

[ke-rolla]

Looking at doing a 4 link setup for the rear of my car, has anyone done one of these setups in a KE2#, just want to know how muuch works involved and how hard it would be to myself, i work at an engineering firm so have access to most engineering tools, machines etc.. basially just want an idea on what I'm getting myself into and exactly whats involved, what needs modifying etc

any help would be great guys

 

cheers

Morgz

[philbey]

I reckon there's a ke20 I the us that's running a full ae86 rear end. I recall seeing pics of it many moons ago, and there were underbody pics of it which may help.

 

I have also seen a ke20 race car at sand down running a 4 link, the trailing arms actually protruded inside the car and the front pivot mounts were in the rear foot wells. Probably not useful for a road car but you get the drift.

[coln72]

In a recent Street Machine, they showed a 4 link kit being fitted into a Falcon. Dig this up and you may be able to use the kit to to get ideas to do the same for a KE20. From memory, a cradle was fitted for the 4 link that bolted to the original leaf and shock mounts. Only needed two holes to be drilled.

[altezzaclub]

Are you talking a 4-link like a Datsun Stanza, where the lower arms are straight & the upper ones at 45deg when seen from above??

 

So you go to coils and do away with the leafs... or are you looking at keeping the leafs and fitting the same sort of 4links to them?

 

We turned our rally Stanza to a paralell link with a panhard, but the floor wasn't strong enough to take the pounding the mounts gave it and Nissan got upset. We were a semi-works car at the time.

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

There is a more generous amount of room under the ke20/25 compared to ke30/55.

if you have any chance of keeping it under the existing floor you would use have to use triangulated top arms.

The biggest problem i can see is what to tie the 4 link into given the limited structure under the rear of the ke2x, perhaps a roll cage would be a good idea....

Keep us updated on your progress

[MRMOPARMAN]

for a budget rear end, id go a KE70 rear, and put KE3/5x spring hangers on the axle housings. so you keep the leaf springs. replicate the upper control arm points off the KE70 but place them to suit the front leaf spring mounts to get the pinion angles you will need, then make a panhard rod setup to suit.

[altezzaclub]

place them to suit the front leaf spring mounts to get the pinion angles you will need,

 

There is a lot to take into consideration for that, the V8 hotrodders go into deep engineering details and arguments about how to set it up.

Keeping leaf springs involves problems, but so does manufacturing coil towers.

[coln72]

Thats why I suggested building a bolt in "cradle". All mounts can be built off that. If you have access to Street Machine September 2010 pg 116 you will see what I mean, or look up Macdonald Brothers Racing. You would have to weld on the control arm mounts and shock mounts onto the diff though.

Edited January 8, 2012 by coln72

[altezzaclub]

Ah- very flash. That solves a of of problems.

[marksKE25]

It is not a 4 link as such. But this is the set up on my Ke25. I have a Ta22 diff that has been strengthen using forward lower control arms. The leaf springs are still in use. there is also a forward control arm that extends from the diff and is mounted in a fabricated housing that is recessed into where the back seat would be(seats could still be there if not for the roll cage). The diff is a locker which can make it a little unpleasant on the road. It is built for rallying the rear of this car handles very well and I get lots of traction.

[coln72]

Ah- very flash. That solves a of of problems.

 

The one in the mag was actually a bolt in jobbie, but thats the idea. Someone with a bit of engineering knowledge should be able to knock something similar up.

 

article here This is the link to the Street Machine article.

[Ical]

It is not a 4 link as such. But this is the set up on my Ke25. I have a Ta22 diff that has been strengthen using forward lower control arms. The leaf springs are still in use. there is also a forward control arm that extends from the diff and is mounted in a fabricated housing that is recessed into where the back seat would be(seats could still be there if not for the roll cage). The diff is a locker which can make it a little unpleasant on the road. It is built for rallying the rear of this car handles very well and I get lots of traction.

 

Any other Photo's on setup.Please.

 

I wish to keep back seat.

 

Thanks Ian.

[styler]

I have a feeling TTE - Team Toyota Europe converted their later TE27 entry to 4 link using

ta22 suspension, might have to check that out but should apply to ke20 none the less.

[snot35]

This should be a TTE TE27 diff I think. It sort of looks like there are longitudinal links as well as leaf spring mounts.

 

Check out the photo stream though, very interesting stuff!

 

Edit: post the link moron! :)

 

http://flic.kr/p/4t531h

Edited April 4, 2012 by snot35

[white_sandshoe]

Subscribing to this thread...

I'm also planning a 4 link. Theory is in replacing the whole floor section in the boot and making it semi-spaceframe (triangulating bars upwards into the boot space from the rear bumper) which I can then tie a rollcage into.

Part of that space framing will be structural strengthening of the seat area, and putting in mounting and structural supports for the areas that the coilovers and control arms will be pushing against, as well as minitubbing...

 

With the way the chassis is on the KE20, I don't feel comfortable putting pressure on many areas of the chassis as it stands.

 

Only other way I'd consider doing a suspension setup is an interesting concept I saw done once, a long time ago on an old truck. The front spring mounts link to thebottom of the diff, and angle downwards to reach it, and the rear spring mounts have a crossover setup, where the mount from one side of the diff goes to the opposite mount, if that makes sense. They are welded in the middle, to create a solid link, and act as both control arms, and panhard rod, as well as having an antiroll effect too, as it will bind up when it's twisted.

 

To get this to work on a KE20, the rear spring mounts would have to be braced up to take side load, which wouldn't be too hard to do... That, and damper mount strengthened, and converted to coilover.

 

Not sure if that makes much sense...