Engineering/engineers

[boofis]

Ah! That would be why I haven't found many. I'll check Ebay thanks. well, what'd you do to the chambers? And your picture is so rotten lol, some poor kid somewhere is hugging/sleeping with that!

[Super Jamie]

basically i ported the CCs out too large and reduced squish area, i would have been better to keep more of the stock shape and just make them a bit deeper. look at the pics of stewart's head and do exactly that, his porting is awesome

[boofis]

Will do. So by making them deeper what affect does that have?

[Felix]

i've got a couple of books by David Vizard and A. Graham Bell. excellent books.

 

if you read into them you will see that there is way more to head flow than simply hogging out the ports and whacking in the biggest valves you can find.

 

save the following link to your computer and unzip:

 

headmods

[Dan]

C'mon mate, entertain me and tell me what make of engine it is, then i can guess :S

 

I've got a question, it might be stupid and I think I most likely know the answer, but if a car is engineered in, say, NSW, would it still be engineered in WA?

 

Cheers,

Dan.

[Super Jamie]

  boofis said:

Will do. So by making them deeper what affect does that have?

it's just a better way to keep the compression to a more realistic level. more squish area means better detonation resistance. my motor pings really badly under 1500rpm because of it

 

  Dan said:

I've got a question, it might be stupid and I think I most likely know the answer, but if a car is engineered in, say, NSW, would it still be engineered in WA?

no. if you re-register a modified car in another state, you need to get it engineered to pass the laws of the new home state. driving a car interstate is a bit of legal grey area, i don't have a definite answer for you because i've heard lots of stories and never bothered to look it up for myself. theoretically your engineering cert SHOULD cover you from defects, because the car is still registered in the state where it is legal

[Dan]

Yeah, I doubted it. Thanks for the insight!

[boofis]

Why thankyou felix! Appreciate that, should be a good read. I'll start up a thread and post pics/description of everything I did so you 'nerds' can critique me :S haha. And dan, if you're referring to my engine conversion, it's going to be Toyota haha.

[Super Jamie]

lol, we are head porting nerds :S i am far from it, i've done one head which did work out alright, because i did enough research beforehand and didn't go overboard, but i also made some mistakes to learn from next time

 

it's REALLY hard to translate mental pictures and theories into actual metal with a die grinder, i guess that's why good headwork is so expensive

[boofis]

yeah that's the truth. Just trying to plan mine out has been quite interesting. Things always seem to come up haha. You aren't just head porting nerds, you are 'car nerds' it's guys like you people that know too much and I'm so jealous haha! What tool did you use for porting? And what bits? I'm using drill and just found a few die grinder bits, but think I should get some more....maybe even invest in a die grinder, but where else can I use it :S

[Super Jamie]

meh, don't be jealous, just enjoy everyone else's experiences and listen and learn and you can get there if you have the dedication. once i was a silly little teenager who couldn't even change sparkplugs, so we all have to start somewhere, and there are people who know alot more than me, and probably even people who know more than all of us put together

 

you really need to use a die grinder, i don't think a drill goes fast enough. you could always hire one from bennett or something, it would be cheaper than buying. i'm lucky enough to have access to an engine builder mate's workshop, so i can go bead blast or chop up heads or whatever to my heart's content. i used two or three different bits, i had a fine oval and a coarse ball. i then used sandpaper around a piece of metal with a slot in it, to polish the chambers afterwards

[boofis]

I'm trying to do what you've said there so it seems to be working not too bad lol. I still can't get over some nerds i.e. Old corollas, Giant Tomato, you, Edma61. You guys should have like a nerd competition and an IQ test lol. That'd be great!

 

ah, I was going to use power drill apparently it's just fast enough but the die grinder is highly recommended. Did your bits have the soft extension bit so it can turn corners, so to speak? What grit sand paper did you use? Do you know roughly how much a diegrinder will set me back, :S I've never ever seen one in real life!

 

AND what other things have you used a die grinder for (Need to convince dad to buy one for general purposes...lol) And do you use MSN? I hate clogging up threads with my noob questions.

Edited December 28, 2005 by boofis

[Super Jamie]

hahaha! my iq is 135 if you're curious. stewart is a cluey guy, sometimes he goes on about things that amaze me. he knows heaps about things other than cars too. we have been good close mates for a few years now

 

the bits i used were solid. to buy a good die grinder and compressor is going to be more expensive than paying someone else to port the head for you. there is no economy in it if you're only doing one head. i'd give a tool hire place a ring and see what they charge

 

i have msn but i hate talking about car crap on there. that's what the forum is for, then everyone can contribute and come up with new fresh ideas, which is what rollaclub is all about. as long as you are willing to think for yourself and research before jumping blindly to the New Topic button, all of us are happy to answer any "noob" questions you have

[boofis]

Yeah damn it stew is cluey. And a doctor of metallurgy damn it, he's smart. 135 ey, I've got no idea what mine is! Ohhh I see where you're coming from. I try not to hit the new topic without researching, but laziness kills the cat occasionally...or something like that. We've already got good compressor, just need to know about die grinder itself and bits of course.

[Felix]

go buy yourself a dremel moto tool copy. one that has a flexible extension. then you can reach right into the ports. get a good assortment of stones/sanding rolls/grinding bits.

 

i found the little sanding rolls work really well, although you will go through a few on an alloy head. when they clog up spin them against a wire brush. they are best for the straightish sections. wd40 is a good lubricant and helps reduce clogging.

 

the grinding stone things you get work ok, but seem to destroy themselves really quick. the round ones work good in shaping curves, like putting a radius on the inside of a valve seat.

 

i also have a coursish grinding bit that fits in a drill. it is good to do the straight sections of a port, but doesn't reach very far.

 

the best thing is not to try to open the ports up or change their shape on earlier porting attempts. you are best to just try to better what you already have. you want to remove all the factory casting marks and try to debur the ports. you don't need them to be perfectly smooth, although it isn't such a bad thing on the exhaust ports as it helps to reduce carbon buildup.