Ohwhatafeelinke30 Diy

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

Hey guys finally getting abit more motivated to work on the car and i thought what the hell ill start a thread

 

My project is a 74 ke30 2dr 4k,4 speed minor rust in couple of places but good for age

 

My plan is to try and build tough little 2dr and attempt to do most of it myself,

rough list: head work (match porting,shaved head and 3 angle valve job)

new cam (got a tighe 154 ill try its similar to camshaft engineering CE701)

lightened flywheel

gilmor belt drive( maybe)

balancing as much as i can afford

elec. dizzy(got an internal igniter elec. dizzy)

single 40 dcom/dcoe weber(bought and just base jetted it)

streetfire cdi(bought)

keeping 1"3/4 straight-through hopefully coby extractors

hd clutch

ta22 struts, brakes and diff

15x7 superlites( stripping as soon as tyres are off)

 

And whatever else tickles my testes but biggest factor i have never done so many things to a car before

you shoulda seen my face when i changed the starter and it actually started.

Its going to be slow and painful but with my trusty haynes book and a wicked forum to leech info off lol

i got everything i need to do it

[ae824ate]

Hey mate, looks like a bloody tidy 2 door! Plans sound good too. Nothing better than the satisfaction of doing it all yourself! Keep us posted! And what are those wheels?

Edited December 12, 2011 by ae824ate

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

Well made a start last nite removed the head, i was suprised at how basic and straight forword everything is once you crack it open

i have always been a touch to intimidated to even crack a motor open in case i stuff it, so i was pedantic when it came to taking

reference photos and cataloging every nut and bolt i bought like 10 divider containers

 

Quick question does anyone know whats up with this head, ports are only 25-26mm i wouldn't think bigport?

Edited December 12, 2011 by ohwhatafeelinke30

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

Hey mate, looks like a bloody tidy 2 door! Plans sound good too. Nothing better than the satisfaction of doing it all yourself! Keep us posted! And what are those wheels?

cheers man they where my old modgies but at 13x8 played havoc on my steering components

[snot35]

That's stock sized ports. Not impressive. Looks like you've got a good sensible plan as far as work goes, good luck with the project! :)

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

That's stock sized ports. Not impressive. Looks like you've got a good sensible plan as far as work goes, good luck with the project! :)

cheers buddy its not the port size that gets me whats that backing plate for?

[radrollaz]

cheers buddy its not the port size that gets me whats that backing plate for?

 

Hi mate, earlier 3k engines had a water outlet on the back of the head for the heater. Some one has blocked it off and havent done a very neat job, thats all.

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

thanks mate yea it is pretty rough but works algud

[Clapped out]

Nice two door there fella! I'll be watching this thread closely :rocknroll:

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

Hey guys recently bought a reasonable condition 3k bigport head(thanks Zowie top bloke), ports match me manifold and kicks the comp. ratio up enough too.

Puting 4k rocker gear in the 3k head is there any modifiying i need to do? And which pushrods to use 3k = 172mm and 4k = 186mm? drunk and motivated lol please help

[snot35]

Most likely the 4K ones if you're using a 4K block and it's taller. You might have to fiddle around a bit though, I'm not sure if the 3K bigport head height is different to a 4K head. Ideally you need to make sure the rockers wipe the end of the valves at a reasonable angle. If they don't you can raise or lower the rocker shaft to adjust. Or fitting a ground cam also changes things.

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

na std 4k cam at the moment, 3k rocker 30mm taller at the main rocker bolts compared to 4k rocker gear(8 main bolts in to the head that is)

[altezzaclub]

You've got a good plan there- are you going to strip the bottom end this time around? I found it easier to lift the whole motor out, whip the head off for the mods I did and tip the motor over to do bearings. I didn't take the pistons out so I never had it al balanced, and now I wish I had!

 

It would also have been good to have dipped the block and cleaned all the shit out of the water jackets. As it was the oil sludge on the crankshaft nipped the edges of the new bearings and siezed them when I bolted them in, so I ended up having the crank professionally cleaned.

 

Take a look at the rocker faces where they rub on the valves and see if hey are grooved. If they are you might as well get them machined if you have to muck about with rocker geometry and pushrod length, as it will make setting tappets a lot more accurate.

 

If the Weber has been dry then fill it with fuel now or soak it in a big tin of gas to soften the tar inside. Strip it and squirt petrol though each jet and drilling with a syrige before you use it.

 

Don't forget to run a bolt down each hole to make sure the threads are clean and smooth before you bolt it all back together. What we did is here-

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

[ohwhatafeelinke30]

ok for the the whole kit kaboodale, bottom end is rebuilt(4k twin row timing chain) got trigger happy chucked the reco 40 dcom carb & manifold on 30mm redline single weber manifold on 27mm 4k head, spat flames at me through carbie, rejetted now and appropriately jetted for base tune(aka 110% wet lol) just changing head due the port size(3mm step), manifold been deburred with dremel with cabide bit but 14mm difference between pushrods what would be best to use short(172mm) or long(186mm)?

P.S waiting on head gasket and manifold gaskets and head studs still

Edited April 6, 2012 by ohwhatafeelinke30

[altezzaclub]

Ah- so you've got most of it done!

 

The best pushrod is the one that makes the rocker sit at the stock angle, & I don't know what that is. I assume it sits upwards slightly when the valve is shut, goes through the horizontal and points down when the valve is fully open. That walks the rocker tip across the valve top correctly, and what you don't want are rockers started off pointing down and going further down so they run off the edge of the valve stem. With a ground cam you have the rocker moving through a greater angle anyway as it generates more lift.

 

Someone will have done it and know what works, but check them carefully anyway.

 

I like the idea of a single DCOE, they can easily handle a 3K or 4K without needing twins.