Twinky Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Hey guys, Just wondering if the 5K can go gasketless? As in just use silicon and no rubber gasket. I have gone through two sump gaskets already as they just deform and pop out of place when I tighten them up. They don't even sit on properly to begin with. The gasket is totally fine in all places but the corner underneath cylinder 1 pops out and leaks like a bastard. Cheers Quote
Evan G Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 ive had the same problem, 3 sump gaskets and was still leaking. best is to remove the engine and do it, so you can be sure its seated correctly. apply LARGE amounts of "threebond" mitsubishi sealant witch is the best ive ever used! also what i found that really helps is removing the studs and fitting nuts and washer from the block. with large amounts of threebond. finger tight the sump, recheck bolts after 30mins (don't OVER TIGHTEND!) and thats it. wheres your leaking from? rear corners? Quote
parrot Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 You could also use a punch around the base of the block to assist in locating the gasket Quote
philbey Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 twinky you're doing it up much too tight. Recommended torque on these gaskets is 5nm, which is barely more than finger tight. You also need to nip the nuts up very slowly, alternating across and around the sump. Also, don't use silicon, I had no luck whatsoever. Permatex No 5 non hardening gasket is what you want, it looks like thick golden syrup, black and very sticky. A good coating of this and then carefully do up the nuts and it's done. Quote
kickn5k Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 best is to remove the engine and do it, so you can be sure its seated correctly. apply LARGE amounts of "threebond" mitsubishi sealant witch is the best ive ever used! also what i found that really helps is removing the studs and fitting nuts and washer from the block. with large amounts of threebond. finger tight the sump, recheck bolts after 30mins (don't OVER TIGHTEND!) and thats it. wheres your leaking from? rear corners? Quoted for truth!!! Threebond FTW. Stu. Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 they just deform and pop out of place when I tighten them up That is the problem. I assume Toyota have a distinct torque to do them up to, carefully worked out to seat it against the gasket sealant but not deform it. Mine leaks out the rear curve under the crank, but a prick of a thing to get to without lifting the motor so I just put newspaper on the garage floor. Embarrassing, Jap cars are not meant to leak like a damm Euro! Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Is this a well known problem? I've heard of many k series engines leaking from there sump. Edited October 24, 2011 by Spencer Quote
Twinky Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 The gasket locates fine but it is not the correct size around the corners. Here is a pic, sorry it's a bit blurry. I could stick my finger in-between the gasket and the sump. So I've cut off the bit that splurged out and filled it with gasket silicon. If that doesn't hold for the time being I'll be catching the bus..... Again.... Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 is that below the timing cover? I've got a 5k in the garage that has huge amount of silicon on that corner... Explains a lot. Quote
Twinky Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 So yeah I've definately overtightened as it seems. I'll get another one and re do it.... damn it's a pain in the arse! Took me just over 2 hours to do it last time. Hate doing things twice. Won't make this mistake again. Quote
Twinky Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 is that below the timing cover? I've got a 5k in the garage that has huge amount of silicon on that corner... Explains a lot. Yeah, everywhere else is perfectly fine but that corner has popped out. It was fine before I started driving and then when I got home I noticed a big pool of oil forming on the floor. The shit has gone EVERYWHERE!!! It's all over the inner wheel, wheel arch, suspension, sway bar, sump inside the engine bay. This is going to be a 5 hour job just because of the clean-up. Just when you are happy with your car it punches you in the balls. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Oil on the floor just chuck some sand on it and sweep it up later. $2 degreaser cans will be your friend underneath the car. Quote
Twinky Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Yeah, I'll need yo buy $50 worth of the stuff. Man it's like a newborn after a weeks worth of filth all done in the space of 30 minutes. Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Now tell the truth.. if it ran out of oil while you were driving, would you have noticed before it ran the bearings and ruined the crank?? The rally car had a trailer indicator light on the steering column as an oil pressure light, it lit up the whole of the car inside when it came on! :laff: Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Hahaha at the end of they day man , it could of been much worse. Quote
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