camorinta Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 Hi, I have a 5K, 97% sure that its high compression as it ping with 91 fuel (lol) it has extractors and a 1n 3/4 inch exhaust and i plan on getting some decent carby or carbies on it.. Now my question is, what specs should I have the cam to if I want it to be 'mild' Mild meaning a bit lumpy and nothing crazy RPM haha .. also keeping the hydro? cheers Quote
Evan G Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 http://www.wadecams.com/ seams like wade are the only guys that do hydro cams (go ford 250 pre X flow for profiles) I'm also keen to see what hydro profiles the 5k gurus run. not too sure how big regrind you can go with a stock cam? might need a semi finished cam from tighe with a wild hydro grind.? Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 I run a Crow 270deg advertised duration and 0.4" lift, which is low/mid-range. It idles grumpy but doesn't feel cammy when you drive it. 280deg would be too wild for what you said, so closer to the 270 than 280..Look up the cam list here and go to the company's pages to see their comments. Often they describe the cams as 'street' sports/street' 'race' etc I wanted a mildish cam too, so I haven't listed the really wild ones. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70 Quote
kickn5k Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 http://www.wadecams.com/ seams like wade are the only guys that do hydro cams (go ford 250 pre X flow for profiles) I'm also keen to see what hydro profiles the 5k gurus run. not too sure how big regrind you can go with a stock cam? might need a semi finished cam from tighe with a wild hydro grind.? I'm not sure if many of the 5k guys run hydro cams(the boosted ones anyway). Pretty sure Colin72 ran a hydro ages ago. It's too easy to go solid!! Stu. Quote
philbey Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 I'm running a large hydro on my 5K, I did dial gauge it, and poorly and forget now. Anyway it's .480 lift. So it's big. Quote
coln72 Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 Yeah ran a reground hydro in my 5k. Wade 169 grind from memory - lost the specs ages ago :blush: Remember it being descibed as suiting multiple carbies and upped compression Quote
Evan G Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 the only real problem i can see is measuring and adjusting pre load on the hydros. resurfacing lifters, installing, check preload. shave rocker post accordingly? Quote
kickn5k Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 Yeah ran a reground hydro in my 5k. Wade 169 grind from memory - lost the specs ages ago :blush: Remember it being descibed as suiting multiple carbies and upped compression Cheers man sorry to dob you in.lol. Thanks also philbey!! I had a Crow hydro in the 11. Before I went boosted. Because I went 4k(flat top piston) cylinder head the 5k pushrods were atleast 5mm too short so I was left with the decision solid cam or custom pushrods. The solid cam won. I'd give a few cam shops a call and ask what they would recommend. You don't want something that's a pig to drive. Especially if it's your daily!! Stu. Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 Any ideas on what the difference between a solid grind an a hydro grind is?? Do they open a hydro slower or faster on the ramp?? Quote
kickn5k Posted October 21, 2011 Report Posted October 21, 2011 Any ideas on what the difference between a solid grind an a hydro grind is?? Do they open a hydro slower or faster on the ramp?? I know the ramp rate is different. Not 100% sure but from memory the hydro is slower. Stu. Quote
philbey Posted October 22, 2011 Report Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) duration at .050 thou? Honestly can't say. I plotted dimensions directly off the lobe but never factored the follower offset so my numbers werent good. I need to drop a solid in and use that gets rid of dial gauge folloer error. It must be big because its around 12:1 static comp and runs! the only real problem i can see is measuring and adjusting pre load on the hydros. resurfacing lifters, installing, check preload. shave rocker post accordingly? I got lucky,slapped it all together, checked the preload and it was good, perhaps a little on the high side. It's actually a really painstaking to measure, need to be very careful. I should probably shim down a bit. Any ideas on what the difference between a solid grind an a hydro grind is?? Do they open a hydro slower or faster on the ramp?? Honestly this argument rages all across the Internet:' run this with that but not the other way around' and everyone has a cogent argument full of quasi-scientific explanations. The simple fact is that they have different dynamics and you need to spec accordingly. The argument is also confused by Roller cams which do have a more aggressive profile. Also, the lobe root diameter on 5ks is different between thhe two. Hydro for hydro cams, solid for solid cams. I also suspect the merits of the argument that the hydro grinds are power limited compared to solids, at least for a street application. Edited October 22, 2011 by philbey Quote
GJM85 Posted October 22, 2011 Report Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) i've got a 5k hydro cam reground to suite holden solid lifters. (25/65)270 adv dur & .423" valve lift. It doesn't sound lumpy at idle. Effectivley a duration of 30/70 is classified as a "mild cam". My car has been at the dyno shop for almost 2 weeks and i'm getting worried. Can't wait to see what my little power house will make. Read this. You will understand much....Degreeing Edited October 22, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
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