Spencer[RL] Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) So with very little info going around on 4k-c to 4k-e conversion I thought I would start a nice an simple thread that could be put into our library. Everything used will be standard from a 4k-e onto a basic 4k-c, the internals of the 4k-c will not be touched. Hardware 1) Air Flow Meter 2) Throttle Body 3) Intake Runners 4) Intake Manifold Adapter 5) Fuel Rail 6) Rocker Cover 7) Electronic Distributor 8) Ignition Coil 9) Oxygen Meter 10) 4k-e ECU 11) Thermostat housing Electrical Toyota Starlet Maunal 18 Pin Connector E2 - Earth IG - Igniter / Injector Pulse Signal VS - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor E3 - Earth VC - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor W - Check Engine Warning Light BATT - Unswitched 12v power supply +B - Ignition switched 12v power supply THA - Air Flow Metre / Air Temperature Sensor EMS - ? B/K - Stop Light / Brake Switch SPD - Speed Sensor STA - ECU Start Signal A/C - Air Conditioner On OX - O2 Sensor 12 Pin Connector THW - Water Temperature Sensor E1 - Earth IDL - Throttle Position Sensor TL - Throttle Position Sensor VF - Test Connection PSW - Throttle Position Sensor T - Test Connection #10 - Injectors #20 - Injectors E01 - Earth E02 - Earth Wiring Diagrams 4K-E Wiring Diagram3.pdf 4K-E Wiring Diagram4.pdf 4K-E Wiring Diagram5.pdf Let me know what is missing and I'll add it. Edited October 22, 2011 by Spencer 2 Quote
corolla_bitten Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) I'm guessing you would probably need different fuel pump and regulator :), and also will have to change all the rubber fuel lines to higher pressure efi friendly stuff:) Edited October 11, 2011 by corolla_bitten Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Posted October 11, 2011 ^^ True , can anyone confirm the difference between the 4k-c and 4k-e fuel pump and reg ? Quote
chestikoph1 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 Best option would be to run a surge tank, don't think the your fuel tank is baffled enough not too, you will get fuel starvation going around corners otherwise. You will need a lift pump and a high pressure pump. I am not experienced with 4ke's but looks like you already have a fuel pressure regulator on your fuel rail, but since your going super charged you may need an adjustable one. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Posted October 11, 2011 This is not for the supercharger, this is just a basic how to guide to convert your 4k-c to a 4k-e...... Seeing that more and more of these setups are coming in from Nz and Mayalasia and the lack of infomation on the web of what a kit should consist of and how to set it up is really shocking . So thought I would be a nice guy and document my conversion therefore I get to ask of heaps and questions and get it running and everyone in history to come can have something to go off. Everyone Wins :happy: Quote
Twinky Posted October 11, 2011 Report Posted October 11, 2011 I'll post up some of my stuff later on tonight. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) Electrical added. Let me know if you got anything of use . Cheers Edited October 12, 2011 by Spencer Quote
towe001 Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 Just going to say that i'm watching this thread. the wiki needs an update of something like this. Any chance of a photo of the inside of the dizzy ? About the only thing i can add to the thread is club-k Quote
ae824ate Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 You will most definitely need a high pressure fuel pump (use a bosch inline or similar). And that may be your regulator and return line on the end of the fuel rail. If not, they are not expensive or complicated. Do you have the loom for it? And why is the rocker cover different? Will be a great write up, good luck with it. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Posted October 13, 2011 The Throttle body sits directly on top of the rocker cover so undoing the standard rocker cover oil cap would be near impossible and you still got to try and get a funnel in it to change oil , so Toyota moved the the cap and neck to the back of the cover so it becomes more accessible. A lot of people over look this simple item when buying a EFI kit. I do have a loom for it that I might redo it looks a bit "rough" but will have a closer look this weekend. Quote
ae824ate Posted October 13, 2011 Report Posted October 13, 2011 Ahh, :jamie: . Why didnt i think of that. Really it shouldnt be a challenge. Hopefully. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Posted October 16, 2011 People over at Club-k have been speaking of changing there starlet carby fuel tank to the baffled fuel tank from the efi models , Can someone please explain to me what they mean an how it would affect my conversion? Quote
Twinky Posted October 16, 2011 Report Posted October 16, 2011 I would say that getting a starlet EFI tank would be a challenge in it self, unless of course it is from a modern model starlet. If I was you I would set up a surge tank and lift pump instead. It would be a better option anyway. I'll put up my info soon, just been a bit busy lately. Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted October 16, 2011 Report Posted October 16, 2011 People over at Club-k have been speaking of changing there starlet carby fuel tank to the baffled fuel tank from the efi models , Can someone please explain to me what they mean an how it would affect my conversion? EFI cars generally run baffle plates in their fuel tank to prevent the fuel sloshing around. Since carby cars often run mechanical (in the engine-bay) or electric (engine-bay or in-tank) low-pressure fuel pumps, and the carby bowl acts as a mini reservoir, starving the fuel pump ever so slightly in heavy g-forces isn't a big problem. On the other hand, EFI cars generally run high-pressure electric in-tank pumps, which require the fuel for lubrication and have no real backup reservoir (since the fuel is circulated back to tank in most situations from the fuel rail) - this means that heavy cornering with no baffles in the tank can starve the fuel pump, whicn in turn can cause both the fuel pump to be damaged and the engine to lean out, neither of which are good things. So, if you are converting a carby car to EFI, it is recommended to swap in a baffled fuel tank, and generally this is easiest if you use the tank from an EFI-spec model of the same car. Failing that, a common solution is to run a surge tank and lift pump - low pressure in-tank pump to "lift" the fuel into a seperate small surge tank (maybe 2-3L or so, baffled) which has a high-pressure EFI fuel pump in it, which supplies the engine. This way, the EFI pump is always in a baffled tank, but you don't have to worry about trying to find a whole new fuel tank. Quote
Spencer[RL] Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Posted October 19, 2011 ok , mystery part..what is it ? what does it do.. and do you need it for this conversion? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.