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Posted

Hey all, this is my first post in these forums. Nice little community you got here.

I have a few questions, please forgive my un car-savvy noobishness.

These questions relate to my 1975 5k KE30.

 

Has anyone had any luck installing a revmaster 62 or 63 cam in a 5k? Which would you recommend?

 

Also, I'm looking at getting some new wheels as mine are too big and wide which tends to make the car train-track whilst driving. Looking at getting some stock sized rims, but am having trouble finding the stock specifications for '75 rolla wheels. Any suggestions?

 

Also looking at upgrading to twin webers eventually. Which setup would be ideal?

 

Like I said, I am a noob and I don't really know f. all about mechanics and such, my trusted mechanic handles that. I do love my rolla though and want to give her the attention she(Mustard Sally)deserves.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated :)

 

Cheers!

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Posted

Find a wheel alignment place that does race or rally cars as well as general stuff, and tell them the problems you have.

 

You will probably find the train-tracking is just a poor alignment. I have no faith at all in the Mag&Turbo type chain stores for a good alignment, they can only put the computer in the green zone and that's it.

 

Do you have any specs on the cam?

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Find a wheel alignment place that does race or rally cars as well as general stuff, and tell them the problems you have.

 

You will probably find the train-tracking is just a poor alignment. I have no faith at all in the Mag&Turbo type chain stores for a good alignment, they can only put the computer in the green zone and that's it.

 

Do you have any specs on the cam?

:y: Cheers mate. I'm new to all this car stuff. I finally have a car worth doing up.

No specs on the cam. I basically have to bring them my cam and they will work on it. They are the only place in S.A. that do luberising. I think he quoted me $140.

 

I also need new tyres. Looking at either the Zetum zh15 (Kumho) or Nexen CP661 both at $100 each. Has anyone had any experience with either of these brands?

Edited by Rolls Royce
Posted (edited)

noob bump

Lol!!

Not all that much of a noob query mate. Well thought out questions get well answers.

With the cam. I'd go down and have a chat with them or get your mechanic to tell them your plans for the motor, type of induction(what carb size etc), engine mods, exhaust size, car weight, diff ratio etc and get them to guide your choice. So many times mates of mine have chosen their own cam and the car is an absolute pig to drive because it doesn't match the engine etc. Are you getting your 5k cam done??

With your steering problem ask your mechanic if he has any recommendations for a wheel alignment in your area.

Altezzaclub is bang on again look for a shop that don't set off the book. They should be able to diagnose any issues for you.

 

Stu.

Edited by kickn5k
Posted

There are 4 or 5 big cam shops that cut cams for 'K' series, and they all have lists like this-. They usually label them "fast road" or "Sports" or "Road track" etc, but I didn't list the comments. These are the 'less-wild' cams that I picked from, as I wasn't planning on going over 6000rpm really & we live at high altitude.

 

If you go over 0.4" lift you will need different valve springs (Holden 202) and don't forget most guys pick a cam that is wilder than they need... hence Kickn's comment about being a pig to drive. You need to know what you plan to do with the car, as driving in traffic every day with a wild cam really is not pleasant for the once a month you get to wind it out and really use it.

 

$140 is about right, you will need to get the followers ground as well so they wear in with the new cam, and that will take it up to the $170odd I paid to Crow.

post-7544-0-58972100-1318321611_thumb.jpg

Posted

Has anyone had any luck installing a revmaster 62 or 63 cam in a 5k? Which would you recommend?

Also looking at upgrading to twin webers eventually. Which setup would be ideal?

 

The guys who are selling you the grind will definitely be able to tell you specs. Lift, and duration are a must have, so just give them a call and they’ll certainly tell you. Report back afterwards!

 

If they can't tell you, don’t go there. These numbers are important.

 

You also need to confirm if you have hydro or solid cam, and that the grind you have is suitable.

 

As for the weber upgrade: do it now. Your cam upgrade will be a waste of time on it’s own. Carb without Cam or vice versa is a pointless upgrade.

 

There is no real ideal setup. I run Dellorto, others run weber, for twin sidedraft’s the 40mm will be ample for a road car. 45’s if you’re racing. You could also run SU’s but they’re harder to find manifolds for.

 

A single sidedraft 45 would also make power although if you’re going one, why not go two.

 

 

I also need new tyres. Looking at either the Zetum zh15 (Kumho) or Nexen CP661 both at $100 each. Has anyone had any experience with either of these brands?

 

Those are pretty cheap so expect no real advantages other than… .cheap. Also what sizes are you running, I suspect it’s a 13x5.5 rim?

 

I bought these Falkens for my car

http://www.falken.com.au/tyres/passenger-ZE912.html

 

I’m very happy for them, good performance in 13 inch tyres is limited, and these are a good size for close to stock dimensions.

 

noob bump

BTW, Hi and welcome! As a side note, please be aware that there is a minimum 72 hours before you are permitted to bump. Otherwise we will unleash a fury of biblical proportions! Just kidding, and generally not heavily enforced outside of the sales threads anyway!

 

So many times mates of mine have chosen their own cam and the car is an absolute pig to drive because it doesn't match the engine etc.

 

Seconded. You need to consider the whole engine; namely you should calculate your compression ratio and work out what cam will work well, and fit bigger carbs and extractors. Otherwise it could be a waste of time, as you go for a bigger cam , you should increase your compression accordingly.

 

Light reading:

http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

 

If you go over 0.4" lift you will need different valve springs (Holden 202) and don't forget most guys pick a cam that is wilder than they need...

 

This claim of a 0.4 upper limit is a myth, for 5K hydraulics at least (which I suspect you probably have). I ran .48 lift (stock is .38) for over 18 months before I busted a valve spring.

 

Regardless, get a set of Crow 4220 double springs anyway, 120 bucks. Forget adapting holden junk and all this Frankenstein mumbo jumbo etc, these are a drop in item.

Posted

Those are pretty cheap so expect no real advantages other than… .cheap. Also what sizes are you running, I suspect it’s a 13x5.5 rim?

I bought these Falkens for my car

http://www.falken.com.au/tyres/passenger-ZE912.html

I’m very happy for them, good performance in 13 inch tyres is limited, and these are a good size for close to stock dimensions.

 

So these are a good thing then philbey????

What sort of money are they?

 

Stu.

Posted

what size tyre are you looking at buying?

 

And what sort of budget? ($100 the limit?)

 

the federal 595 RSR were pretty awesome for the price ($140 fitted 195/50/r15). Or the bridgeston RE02 are supposed to be pretty good, can get them in most sizes.

Posted

So many times mates of mine have chosen their own cam and the car is an absolute pig to drive because it doesn't match the engine

 

 

Quoted again for truth.

 

One of the biggest issues is people over-camming cars and then being disappointed because they haven't match carbie/ dizzy/ spark/ fuel/ head etc to the super monster they've installed.

 

Big is not always better.

Posted

Big is not always better.

 

 

big cam/double valve springs $180

10:1 compression $40

telling people that your cammed 4k is a 12a = priceless

Posted

Thanks for the helpful replies everyone :y:

Find a wheel alignment place that does race or rally cars as well as general stuff, and tell them the problems you have.

 

You will probably find the train-tracking is just a poor alignment. I have no faith at all in the Mag&Turbo type chain stores for a good alignment, they can only put the computer in the green zone and that's it.

 

Do you have any specs on the cam?

 

My mechanic said if I wanted to get the smoothest ride that I should get stock spec wheels. At the moment I'm running 15x7's I think.

Am I right in thinking stock size is 13x5.5?

 

I asked the dude at revmaster to email me the cam specs but he hasn't as of yet. Maybe he heard me wrong. I'll post them as soon as I find out.

:y:

 

Lol!!

Not all that much of a noob query mate. Well thought out questions get well answers.

With the cam. I'd go down and have a chat with them or get your mechanic to tell them your plans for the motor, type of induction(what carb size etc), engine mods, exhaust size, car weight, diff ratio etc and get them to guide your choice. So many times mates of mine have chosen their own cam and the car is an absolute pig to drive because it doesn't match the engine etc. Are you getting your 5k cam done??

With your steering problem ask your mechanic if he has any recommendations for a wheel alignment in your area.

Altezzaclub is bang on again look for a shop that don't set off the book. They should be able to diagnose any issues for you.

 

Stu.

Cheers mate. Yeah getting the 5k cam done. (not for a while though, getting the car to 'safe to drive' condition first, and I'm on a student budget)

:y:

 

 

 

 

 

There is no real ideal setup. I run Dellorto, others run weber, for twin sidedraft’s the 40mm will be ample for a road car. 45’s if you’re racing. You could also run SU’s but they’re harder to find manifolds for.

 

A single sidedraft 45 would also make power although if you’re going one, why not go two.

 

 

 

 

Those are pretty cheap so expect no real advantages other than… .cheap. Also what sizes are you running, I suspect it’s a 13x5.5 rim?

 

I bought these Falkens for my car

http://www.falken.com.au/tyres/passenger-ZE912.html

 

I’m very happy for them, good performance in 13 inch tyres is limited, and these are a good size for close to stock dimensions.

 

 

BTW, Hi and welcome! As a side note, please be aware that there is a minimum 72 hours before you are permitted to bump. Otherwise we will unleash a fury of biblical proportions! Just kidding, and generally not heavily enforced outside of the sales threads anyway!

 

 

 

Seconded. You need to consider the whole engine; namely you should calculate your compression ratio and work out what cam will work well, and fit bigger carbs and extractors. Otherwise it could be a waste of time, as you go for a bigger cam , you should increase your compression accordingly.

 

Light reading:

http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

 

 

 

This claim of a 0.4 upper limit is a myth, for 5K hydraulics at least (which I suspect you probably have). I ran .48 lift (stock is .38) for over 18 months before I busted a valve spring.

 

Regardless, get a set of Crow 4220 double springs anyway, 120 bucks. Forget adapting holden junk and all this Frankenstein mumbo jumbo etc, these are a drop in item.

Cheers for the reply mate. I reckon I'm going to put in the cam at the same time as a single 40DCOE weber, then save up for a 2nd 40DCOE weber + linkage etc. further down the track.

:y:

 

 

what size tyre are you looking at buying?

 

And what sort of budget? ($100 the limit?)

 

the federal 595 RSR were pretty awesome for the price ($140 fitted 195/50/r15). Or the bridgeston RE02 are supposed to be pretty good, can get them in most sizes.

Yeah budget is $400 - $500 for 4. My mate was telling me to go for Korean brands for bang for your buck. Something about more of the profit being put back into development and generally cheaper manufacturing than Japan etc.

 

Thanks heaps for the replies everyone. With this new found knowledge and terminoligy, I'm feeling less and less noobish every day :cool:

:y:

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