Rust Converter,Metal Sealant. What Do You Use?

[Spencer[RL]]

Hey guys,

 

As you some might know recently re-did my rear gaurds and I'm about to paint them .

I have gone down to metal so I know etch primer must be layed, I just wanted to know what you guys are using as a rust converter/sealer before.

 

I'm currently using K&H converter from repco it does the job but its just not cutting it for me, I live about 500m away from the sea so I need a converter that is really strong. My prep work is always immaculate and clean to my best abilitys so don't think thats letting me down.

 

Lets us know what you use!

Cheers

Edited September 8, 2011 by Spencer

[rian]

Paint your entire car in Tectyl :cool:

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Rust converter is mostly acid. If you want strong there are automotive acids available, but you would need to buy gloves and breathing mask.

 

Rust converter is designed to neutralize rust. Once used wash it off with water, and once dry use prepsol/ prep wash before painting your etch primer. I know some products say you can paint over them once dried, i wouldnt, and have seen some ugly results from doing so. but its your car.

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Just read your post again, i will add that being acid, if it is wet, it will cause rust. So if you have your panel painted with dried rust converter and it gets moisture on it, it will rust much worse than the bare metal would have done.

[Spencer[RL]]

Can you recommend something?

 

My normal routine was to spray it on let it sit for 5-10 min rinse throughly, wipe down with a clean cloth.

What do the body shops use? THATS WHAT I WANT.

Edited September 8, 2011 by Spencer

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Anything other than K&H, that is for ALL products, undercoat, etch, everything, avoid it like the plague.

 

I have used a few, they all work well, the one i have atm is por15, it works well.

 

If you want more effect from it, don't let it dry (keep adding) and use a scourer to scrub it as you wet it. :y:

[carbonboy]

^^^ Don't forget your rubber gloves & safety glasses, the stuff hurts like hell on bare skin! :yes:

[irokin]

Rust converter is mostly acid. If you want strong there are automotive acids available, but you would need to buy gloves and breathing mask.

 

:yes:

 

but you can't just use any acid, its phosphoric acid (same stuff that's in Coke IIRC).

 

It turns Iron Oxide (Fe₂O₃) into Iron Phosphate (FePO₄).

 

 

I've never had much long term success with off the shelf rust converters. Eventually the rust underneath has come through again. You might have better luck with strong Phosphoric acid, but be REALLY careful if you get something that's laboratory grade! Definitely get your PPE sorted before opening anything.

[Clapped out]

Galmet ironize converter, and deox, problem sorted!

[Wishin86]

Can of coke? Haha.