phil86 Posted October 5, 2011 Report Posted October 5, 2011 Dbr11k is sat about 2.5 degrees give or take Quote
Ella Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) Alex: what struts are you running? you can't run AE86 Power steer arms with KE70 struts. and DBR11K, phil86 above is right but really what you want is as much caster as you can wind in. the max your stock caster rods will adjust is usually about enough. Edited October 9, 2011 by Ella Quote
dbr11k Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 what does caster do ? is that what makes the wheel come back to centre? like toe in i think its called? Quote
Jono.C Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 Castor just makes it more stable at higher speed.. By moving the front wheels further forward it lengthens the wheelbase slighty therefore more stability Winding castor off does the opposite. There's no point cranking tons of castor, the more castor the more likely you'll have to cut your guards Toe is the adjustment of the front wheels pointing in or out.. This is where the tie rods are adjusted such that the front edges of the tires to be farther apart than the rear edges of the tires when viewing the car from above Toe out is used to increase the turning force generated at the front of the car. If you have understeer then toe out can help reduce or rectify this. Therefore toe out is in drifting, i find having a little toe out 2deg or so will make the resonse from having the wheels straight to on lock is much faster. Which is what you want if you're planning on lock entries or chicane runs Quote
ke70dave Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 castor is also known as 'Dynamic Camber'. essentially when you turn, you wind on more camber at the same time. so you get more camber int he corners, whilst retaining a fairly conservative amount of camber in a straight line to help straight line braking and tyre wear. down side is, the more castor you wind on the more twitchy the car feels. Quote
dbr11k Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 oh.. well thanks for the replies guys, i realise that suspension geometry can get pretty tricky but i guess i will cross that bridge when i get to it! at the moment i'm thinking i'll be running about these settings for drifting: minus 2.5 degrees camber 2 degrees toe out 3.5 caster does that sound about right ? Quote
Ella Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 Johno C do you have idea what the hell your on about?? Toe is measured in Millimetres not in degrees to start with. I am not only a Ex wheel aligner but have spent several hours adjusting cars for all sorts of different types of racing (and drift) so i think i know what I'm on about. Again KE70daves on the money with his advice. and your settings Dr11k should be -2.5 deg camber, 3.5 Degrees caster (about the limit of stock KE70 caster rods) and around 0.5 mm toe out per side or around 1.0mm total toe. This is what i ran in my old KE70 and it worked great, will be running these settings in the red car when done. also the order i put the measurements in is the order you change the settings if your doing it yourself. the car will be rather twitchy at speed but will corner like a champ and youll find the wheel self centres nicely if your sliding and going lock to lock in a hurry. And yes you will have to either cut or flare your guards for these settings. Quote
Evan G Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 (edited) I'm rocking about 2.5 degrees of neg camber (bent struts) not noticing any inside camber wear. but starting to notice scrubbing/feathering of the outter edge of both tyres? wtf is causing this? its had a wheel alignment around 9 months ago i don't drive like a granny either? Edited October 9, 2011 by Evan G Quote
dbr11k Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 awesome stuff thanks heaps .. i'm taking the car to tafe tomorrow as it needs a wheel alignment anyways so i might have a play around with it and see what it feels like, eventually i am gettin a pair of these http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=665 Quote
Ella Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 Even though those are incredily nice parts, they are incredibly illegal, no rose joints allowed on street cars, hope yours is a track car? evan: whats the go with your struts exactly? what do you mean bent??? Quote
dbr11k Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 yep strictly track car. so i couldnt care less about noise or stiffness .. i just want really nice steering feedback :P will i need lock spacers if i'm putting T3 outer tie rods in ? Quote
Ella Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 wow just looked at those tie rod ends (and the steer arms they come attatched to!!!) VERY heavy duty stuff, id be trying them without a lock spacer to be honest. too much lock and youll touch chasis rails :D or rub through a brake line with a tire like my friend did at the drift matsuri today (SR20 ke70 drift car) has so much lock it rubbed them through lol. Quote
dbr11k Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 haha thats insane !! obviously i want a fair bit of lock but yea i don't wanna be doing that.. thanks for the advise mate you've helped a fair bit .. i didnt want to go spending money on things that i didnt need, i have 2 grand to spare after selling a car and it's all going to go into suspension :rolls: check out my ride thread as to what i'm looking at buying and let me know if you think i'm wasting money on anything lol. Quote
Ella Posted October 9, 2011 Report Posted October 9, 2011 ok will do, feel free to pm me if needs be! Quote
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