The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[greenmac80]

The motor leans toawrds the inlet side in a Camry, before I even considered the lean, I got some fresh oil and ran it through the head to see how it drains. keen players will notice that the oil can drain down the entire timing column aswell, so it wont get trapped in the head like the slightly inferior past oiling designs. If i was really worried there is an ideal oil drain spot at the rear left hand side of the head, but I don't think that needs doing.

 

 

awesome great work.. if the drainage works well then it doesn't really matter then ay?

 

on my 4e my original mounts didn't upright the motor enough and oil was pooling on one side of the head and wasn't draining properly. i never got to discover if the effect was detrimental to the motor.

now uprighted more but i did have to tilt the gearbpx more.

 

great that every aspect is/has been looked at.

[Sam_Q]

I would be happy to help with your throttles, also I have a batch of alternators here that are industrial 50A units, really small and easy to mount if your interested.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I must have spent 2 years thinking about it, talking to people and gathering all the info I could before I was confident enough to just begin work. Some things you just have to get by as you go. The next ass pain is the tensioner and belt arrangement. The exhaust will be easy, but the alternator comes quite close to where Id like it to be. Maybe moving the alternator to the inlet side will be the best option and just modify the stock tensioner to work, or maybe it will work anyhow. To my Sci fleet homies, can you have a look on your junk 2azfes and see if there are any random brackets that I might be able to build an alternator mount off, particularly on the inlet side? Or, are you aware of any 1azfe or 2azfe variants that have the alternator in a different spot? I assume it gets moved for the trd supercharger kit to be fitted, so is there an alternate mounting for it provided with the kit?

Edited September 16, 2011 by LittleRedSpirit

[LittleRedSpirit]

http://www.club-tc.com/forums/attachments/engine-performance/517d1170167073-trd-supercharger-headers-2az-fe-shot.jpg

 

Looks like the trd blower doesnt remount the alternator.

[irokin]

keen players will notice that the oil can drain down the entire timing column aswell

 

For this reason I don't think I've ever heard of SR20s having head over-oiling problems like the RB series does. I know guys who have oil restrictors plus external drains and STILL have too much oil in the head of an RB. I'd wager the SR20 has a considerably larger volume of oiling to the head than the RBs too as it has oil squirter manifolds above the camshafts to keep the wide lobes lubricated. The rocker arms might suck sometimes, but I'll take that over the excess oil problems any day of the week.

 

I can't quite see how the passages are arranged between the cams and the timing chain but the lean could potentially improve oil drain.

 

 

 

Just reading about the SR20 development on autospeed and found this interesting. Basically Nissan cast an alloy CA20 open deck block and compared it to a development SR20 block.

 

Other Nissan testing showed that cylinder bore distortion of the cast-in iron liners could reach 0.05mm in an open deck design, causing piston slap noise and oil consumption problems. This permanent distortion was reduced to 0.04mm in the closed deck version.

 

I'm not sure how significant 0.01mm is in the scheme of things though? Doesn't sound like much?

[LittleRedSpirit]

Just got a call back from Jenveys Aussie distributor. I'm looking at 270 each plus post, with any butterfly size I want, tapered bore, no injector, and oring sealed unions. Very tempting. Expensive but oh so decent!

[LittleRedSpirit]

Sam can you please post a pic of the alternators you have?

[Sam_Q]

I will get one

[LittleRedSpirit]

[19914afc]

All the 2az's are gone, went a while ago. It might be easy to just do like I said, use a alternator from a commodore or something common and cheap then just modify the bracket on it (which should have the adjuster with the bracket) modifying it shouldn't be much more than drilling an extra hole or cut and weld.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I sourced the correct tubing today and I also sourced a 6mm alloy plate to mount the throttles on, and rather than much around, I measured out and drilled the plate for silvertop ITBs. Now I just need to find a set to check with and then have it welded together. Honestly, once I decided how to do it, it was one and a half hours work. I need to find some way to cut neat 44mm holes in 6mm alloy plate. Might need to see a machinist.

[Sam_Q]

Matt I know you have already progressed a bit but I have the profile for silvertop throttles in a cad file, I can get them arranged them with the right bore spacing and get them cut out of that 6mm plate all joined together. Probably a good idea to go thicker though to allow for warpage when you weld, aluminum warps like crazy

[LittleRedSpirit]

You can go ahead and make the machined plate, to say 8-10mm thickness. With 43mm bores spaced 97mm centre to centre. Mad as, let me know what I owe you when its done. If this doesn't weld properly Ill cut it off and go again with the machined one. I took supreme care for a manual drill but I wouldn't weld this one on until I had some throttles test fitted on it. looks good though. Give me half an hour and Ill post pics of the manifold ready to be welded.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Manifold

[Sam_Q]

wow that's going to work out really well. Your flange is being designed as we speak