The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[carbonboy]

All I can contribute is the one I used on my carb setup was rather noisy when first used, settled down a bit once fuel was going through it. Was much quieter when mounted on rubber bushes (old swaybar bushes) but still audible when the car was running. Handy to know it was still working, got kind of used to it.

[Taz_Rx]

They're always noisy if solid mounted somewhere to the body. Try some bushes as mentioned above maybe.

If you want a near dead quiet pump get you're self a Carter green etc. they have really good mounting brackets which make them quiet as.

[GJM85]

Unbolt and hold the pump while it's running. If the noise goes away it's the mounting.

 

I found these pumps vibrate like crazy if they're in contact with anything hard. The soft mounts aren't fantastic either.

It's been recommended to me to mount them on a slight incline so air passes through easier.

 

I tried using a strip of rubber under the pump and it was noisy. Thus I discovered, the less the pump has contact with anything the quieter it is.

[LittleRedSpirit]

It will be hard to change to something different because of space issues. Ill more than likely climb under there and attach a hose to the inlet of the pump so I can prime it with a jerry can, then Ill loosen its fasteners and slip some shit under to cushion it. If it wont run quiet after that Ill be officially binning it in favour of something higher quality. I read an email response from facet about someone having the same issues and unless they are fully primed they cannot be quiet. Oh well. Back under her again.

 

Its going to have to wait till the weekend as I have work to catch up on for the rest of the week. Ill probably buy a 540cca Century battery to overcome the voltage drop of boot mounting, and because it has a pretty powerful Camry alternator compared to the AE86 unit. May as well store some more power if I'm making it.

[Bueno]

My made has one of those lift pumps in his ca18 datto 1200, mounted on rubber and its still bloody loud, definitely worse though when priming, settles down slightly after running a little.

Hope you get it sorted,

Jes

Edited August 19, 2015 by Bueno

[ke70dave]

I had a facet and it never shut up. Ended up replacing it with an in tank commodore pump adapted to a ke70 tank and then everything was silent. I did a write up when I installed it, may be on ae86dc.

Edited August 20, 2015 by ke70dave

[LittleRedSpirit]

Noise is acceptable for right now if it works fine, so Ill have to give it a crank and see what happens. I've just bought a new 540cca Century battery for it. Its just been installed, so now I'm getting the logger and the wideband online and calibrated and Ill look at starting it asap I think so I can get out in front of any other issues I might find.

 

So keen to hear it run. Might set up the Go Pro for the first start.

[LittleRedSpirit]

So It wouldn't turn over with a new battery in it. It just makes the click like its low on volts. Ill charge it up as it may have sat a while being new but if it wont go after that Id be a bit sus on the starter. Of course its the only thing I havent serviced or replaced.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Oh and the wideband is calibrated and installed fully now. As is the data logger. I'm pretty ʞ©$ɟing ready for this to run now I must admit.

[Taz_Rx]

just try the old hold the key on start (or get someone else to) and give the starter a whack. I've just got mine back on the road after 6 months and the starter did this.....didn't even click actually. got the 6 year old to hold the key while I tapped the starter, hasn't been a problem now its free'd up.

Did you run a nice big fat power cable to your starter (and alternator) with the battery relocation?

[LittleRedSpirit]

Medicine man ran fat cables to feed power. We didnt add any kind of ground from front to rear in the car, I could drop one in just to see if that helps. Battery is completely charged up now so thats not the issue. I'm leaning towards starter cause its pretty shabby looking and I did get it to start and run for about 2 seconds after cranking on one of the old corroded terminals a tiny bit.

 

ʞ©$ɟ. More parts more money.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Starter Motor is at the auto electrician. Ill have it back by 3pm today. They will clean, sandblast and change contacts, grease the bearings and change the plunger if need be.

 

Once re fitted I cannot see why it wont start. I got so excited for about 5 minutes yesterday when it ran. Then so crushed when it wouldn't fire again. :S

[LittleRedSpirit]

Starter motor all fixed now, and like magic it runs. They even sand blasted it so it looks much better. Naturally murphy is back and Cylinder 1 and 2 aren't firing so its only running on 3 and 4. I'm going to swap around the coils and plugs and diagnose what the cause is tomorrow. I don't think the neighbours need to hear my biplane sounding car at the moment.

 

But yes, it runs, its sounding shit on 2, I dumped all the ve tuning and tuned it like a 20v on map x tps. Its going to be nice. It just needs two more cylinders to fire. Seems like the idle control will work as is, and the fuel maps aren't far away.

 

Hopefully its just plugs wrong with it and I can go get some iridium's from Repco in the morning and call it sweet. Might even be able to try and drive it. The fuel pump shuts up after a few seconds too which is nice. I took some logs and a video but neither has much merit being on 2 cylinders.

 

[LittleRedSpirit]

So I did the diagnosis swap around of the coils and found they were all good and the plugs were not. I changed them out for iridium's and the car instantly idled much higher, but still on 2 cylinders. I might have a slight wiring issue. I need you Justin to help test and diagnose it. What you doing today or tomorrow?

[LittleRedSpirit]

Justin came by and we checked and corrected as few issues and now it doesnt run at all. I think running on 2 was an anomaly caused by us having a couple of cross connections with regard to firing order of the injectors and ignition. All thats been swapped around to correct now so it can only be software related.

 

I've checked the coils, plugs, all the wiring, fuel volume and pressure, compression of the cylinders (180 plus psi) and anything else that came to mind, but still never got one and 2 to fire and as I say now that we have made the firing orders correct nothing fires at all. I think something is up with the software cause the hardware is perfect. Anyhow, I have emailed Andy and Mark at Adaptronic so hopefully they respond tomorrow and I can get it fixed with a simple computer tweak.

 

A big thanks goes to Justin for checking his work and making sense of the hardware with me.

 

I did detect one small leak in the headers in the rear most Y join.