The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Good find, I shall investigate.

 

I did a lot of work on the diff today.

 

I made the new hard lines for it and flared and fitted them. I'm happy with how the longer line is under the panhatd mount for protection.

 

I also made a remote breather kit for it, with a 90 degree fitting, two spare barbs and the stock fitting. Just needs a longer bit of hose. Did a little bit of blacksmithing to get the top 4 link mounts perfect aswell. I went through all my old bits and found enough washers and bolts for the panhard and shocky mounts aswell.

 

I asked the diff shop about it, and apparently the diff isnt baffled, so I need to source a pair of f series baffles. The part number is 42108 30010. If your looking for other genuine parts and prices could you check that please Jake? Otherwise I have to rape them from an f series at the wreckers that someone can most likely use.

Edited October 16, 2012 by LittleRedSpirit

[19914afc]

Wow that diff looks very nice! alot more than mine, haha. Mine is just welded up and a lick of black underbody paint, haha.

[ninja-philbo]

All looks so neat :)

[LittleRedSpirit]

Yes I'm rejoicing in how tidy it looks now. Except I still have to pull the axles out to fit the baffles into the housing when I find some. I'm sure I could run it without, but I just like hard corners too much and that's what this car is designed for.

 

I'm sure it will be as grotty as any other rear end after a year under a car on the street. ;)

[Sam_Q]

I will get you a quote for baffles

[spilmer]

Where did you get the brake lines from ? They look like they are made of copper.

[LittleRedSpirit]

They are steel with Cad plating like all toyota ones are before mother time browns them off.

 

They came from IFS at rocklea. Industrial fittings sales.

 

I bought the bender from Glenfords, a neat little urwin one.

 

Flare nuts are the dearest bit, a couple of bucks each.

 

The 6 metre bit of tube was only $13.

[19914afc]

Were they hard to make? I still need to do my whole car and the bundy tube is more economical than going braided line throughout the car.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Not really. Fiddly id say but not hard. Once you get your head around how the bending tool works its pretty easy to do. Just have to remember to put the flare nuts on before you flare it. Haha.

[Willis]

Nice job on the diff!!

[orangeLJ]

Not really. Fiddly id say but not hard. Once you get your head around how the bending tool works its pretty easy to do. Just have to remember to put the flare nuts on before you flare it. Haha.

 

Positioning the bender so the bend is in the right spot always shits me too. You think its going to bend on the right, nope, sorry, bends on the left. haha. Like you say though, once you do a few, you get used to it.

 

The other thing I can reccomend is buying a decent flaring tool (especially for double flares)

 

the cheap ones tend to flare off centre and they don't seal properly once bolted up.

[19914afc]

Looked up the fans from toyota looks like around $1500 haha, everything has to be bought separate.

 

Also if you didn't know the radiator needs to go around the other way, I'm not sure how it will or if effect anything though. I mounted mine the same way as well haha.

[orangeLJ]

not sure on the room, but look at AU falcon thermos (or BA)

 

Popular conversion in torries, cheap enough too and VERY effective.

 

only need the shroud marginally trimmed to fit between the rails on an LJ torana, so width shouldnt be an issue.

Edited October 24, 2012 by orangeLJ

[LittleRedSpirit]

Its a side feed radiator, I don't think it matters from what side it flows. On the 2azfe the thermostat lets the water into the engine, not out, so aside from the unit being upside down, I think the flow direction is correct.

[19914afc]

Yeah don't think it would be a problem I'm probably just going to run a normal radiator cap instead because I need to use a solid bent pipe as well as rad hose due to room and how the hoses have to go, so ill just get a normal radiator cap welded in there and run a normal setup I don't like those expansion ones. Not that there is anything wrong with them really, only thing I could see being a problem having rad that way would be on mine the hose barb for overflow tank is on the bottom and might not be ideal being it 's normally ontop.