The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[PseudoKirby]

Should is not a thing with cars. Have you tried it?

 

I don't have much of a reason yet, but I am going to pick up a 1ZZ intake gasket and see how much matches us, only so much that plastic manifold can take.

[LittleRedSpirit]

My money is on it being no where near but you never know.

I don't have much of a reason yet, but I am going to pick up a 1ZZ intake gasket and see how much matches us, only so much that plastic manifold can take.

 

Man those wheels look cool. Those R888 tyres? look sticky.

 

Sure is buddy and ʞ©$ɟ what a difference they make.

[LittleRedSpirit]

OK need some better tyres as 2 of the worn r888s are slowly leaking air. Not surprising as they have a channel worn in them from some mishap.

 

Must find better tyres today.

[LittleRedSpirit]

I've settled on federal 595 rsr tyres in 205/50/15. Striking a balance between grip and frequent use is the key. The R888s are amazing tyres but its like driving on flypaper the amount of shit they flick up off the road into the arches, and also they really run with the grooves in the road and its a bit annoying. Part of it is the width (225) the sidewall stiffness and the grip. I figure if I tone down the width I get less mass to rotate, less shit flicking up and it will run less with the grooves in the roads. I still want that sticky rubber though, and for a cheap tyre (140 a corner) the rsrs seem very highly rated.

 

I also did a lot more work to the bonnet yesterday. I removed it, ground away underneath to tidy up where the vents were chopped out, and then I enlarged the nostrils drastically for added ventilation, and I also widened the rear vent slots to over double their width to let extra heat escape at the firewall area. I hope the bay coos down fast once you start moving now. I capped it off with some shitty black satin paint that needs to bake in the sun for a week or two and be wet sanded and re coated.

 

 

 

 

[LittleRedSpirit]

Got my 595rsr s, tyre shops are the dumbest ʇ~~ɔs. Give me back a car with the front and rear wheels all mixed up. Then when I drive away weights go flying off the rims.

 

Can somebody please train them and give these retards a chance at succeeding.

 

On a more positive note, the federal 595 rsr tyres I bough feel nice on the road and seem just a little less sticky than the 225 r888s I removed. A good compromise.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Been getting some popping and crackling off throttle particularly between 2 and 3 thousand revs which detracts from the smoothness of the motor. Ive made a change as an experiment. Ive made the vvti work only above 13 percent throttle so I get the first two map cells clear of it and while torque needs are minimal it wont be using vvti. Then once throttle is increased beyond 13 percent it should work as normal. It will be interesting to drive as the control table has different settings for cam advance vs rpm, now I've got this second layer of control I should spend less time with vvti actively working and indeed it should only arise when I give it some gas. When I get off throttle it should zero and as the motor spins down hopefully its smoother.

 

Time will tell. I may end up adding a map sensor multiplier into the vvti calcs somehow as this might yield yet more precise control of the vvti, but what I've done now will at least test my ideas about the smoothness of throttle.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Hmm failed experiment drove like shit. Haha.

[PseudoKirby]

yea your right, gotta confirm fitment.

 

1ZZ intake manifold is just barely off.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Trust me when i say I looked at all options, but even if one of those manifolds fitted, the response given by 4x 44mm throttles is far greater than that given by one single 55mm tb that the stock 2azfe has. I was always going to be doing an itb system on a 4 banger.

 

I just glued the upper and lower layers of the bonnet together better, carby cleaned the throttles, addressed two small coolant leaks which had lost about 50m of coolant in 3 full tanks of driving. One was a poorly chosen hose clamp and the other was a tank collar that wouldn't stop leaking a tiny amount.

 

I also sealed the trumpet spacers up and made them seal to the trumpets themselves. I noticed a slight little gap there that would bleed air in from the side.

 

I just ordered some yellow jackets coils to play with. Just for shits and giggles, and because I want to know if my coils are still optimal after sitting for years.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Today I fitted the honeywell gt101dc sensor to my left front hub. Drilled a hole through the back, tapped a mounting hole and screwed it in place.

 

I was concerned that it would not work right due to the iron all around it but it gets a great signal off the 4 bolts in the back of the rotor. Much more accurate than the ones that screw into the gearbox and you get to keep your manual speedo too. Now my data logs will feature accurate info about speed so I can tune more precisely.

 

I ran the wiring with the brake hose and back through the firewall and into the ecu. It just needed a ground, which I grounded on the head, a 12 v feed which I provided from acc power and the signal wire.

 

 

Only paint in the ass is the ecudatascan doesn't seem to get the signal and interpret it properly.

Edited February 23, 2016 by LittleRedSpirit
still learning to spell

[greenmac80]

^^ whats the sensor for?

[LittleRedSpirit]

Hello.

 

The honey well gt101dc is a widely used and highly regarded hall effect sensor that only costs about $90. I bought it years ago and always meant to fit it somewhere to utilise as a speed sensor. Its really beneficial to have a speed sensor in your logs so you know what gear your in and whether said throttle application yielded x speed increase.

 

I used to have one of the Toyota made sensors that was pretty darn inaccurate, it would be good if you could get an accurate reading from it but the reading would jump around 10-15 percent +- from the speed you were travelling and you never knew precisely what your speed was. To my understanding Toyotas' tuning didn't require accuracy of speed reading here as all it wanted to know was if the car was moving or stationary to tell the auto to go into closed loop mode while stationary and save fuel.

 

This Honeywell sensor is rock solid accurate as the way it works, like the sensor in the dizzy that tells you your rpm, is an iron tooth or teeth is required to pass within 2mm of the node of the sensor. I'm using the 4 rotor bolts as nodes. This triggers a magnetic spike and this waveform is precise and accurate and from knowing the time between peaks you know the speed. Many cars have got toothed wheels in the back of their hubs now to work with this type of sensor to give traction control, which requires a speed sensor on all the wheels to have the info to calculate when the front and rear wheels are rotating at different speeds and to adjust the tuning to make only the torque required to sync them or near sync them. I have placed it in the front wheel as the driven wheels can suffer from wheelspin and the data can become inaccurate.

 

Having this installed also opens up some other tuning ideas, as there are certain things you want to happen at certain speeds. Off the top of my head I will use the sensor to lock out the thermofan if I'm travelling above 70klm/hr as its just going to restrict the flow to the radiator if the fan is trying to turn slower than the air rushing in. I can use it so that the car knows when its stationary and able to engage closed loop idle control too. Just little things like that that require knowledge of the cars movement or lack thereof to perform their function.

 

 

[greenmac80]

right makes sense. all stuff i need to learn. i plan to go standalone management end of the year on my 1uz. and i want to get the most i can out of it,

[Hiro Protagonist]

Ha, I remember using a GT101DC on my aborted attempt to design a traction control unit for the Formula SAE car...

[LittleRedSpirit]

Haha that would be a pain. You should have used Adaptronic select ecu, but I guess you had to make your own being an engineering project and all. You would need some processing power as the algorithm would need multiple speed inputs, ability to compare them and a feedback output to control the tuning, its quite complicated unless you integrate with ecu I imagine.

 

The GT101DC was recommended by Andy Wyatt, Adaptronic ceo. He knows the good gear, and I have been supremely unmotivated to fit it for fear of it not working right and me having then molested my coilovers for no gain, but my faith was rewarded and I even got a good calibration out of it first go.

Edited February 24, 2016 by LittleRedSpirit