PseudoKirby Posted October 10, 2015 Report Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) great work man, your one of the builds that inspired me to take on this project 2AZFE into a 91 MR2. these engines bolt to MR2 transmissions pretty well. and it puts the car at 2400lbs lol Edited October 10, 2015 by PseudoKirby 1 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Posted October 10, 2015 Hey that's great mate, well done. Plan B if I couldn't rwd it the normal way was to grab an sw20 and do what you've done. Great weight saver and probably does a lot for the mr2s balance. Is she all up and running? What sort of issues did you have to deal with aside from wiring and electrics? Packaging should be good for the swap as the 5s and 2az fit into similar amounts of space? Did you use the sw20 trans or a native 2az trans? Quote
PseudoKirby Posted October 11, 2015 Report Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) its hooked up to the S54, NA MR2 transmission, its not running just mocked up right now. I have to tap two more holes for the S54 transmission to work, but some guy put an E153 (turbo MR2 transmission) into his tC, said it bolted up but havnt been able to get more details from him. I have it up to 3 of the 4 mounts now and it seems like there is just enough space for the exhaust, but I need to get a bunch more parts for this swap. the tilt isnt there like it is for the S series engines so it changes positions quite a bit. I calculated everything and it should be within about 30lbs of 50/50 weight distribution which I don't think has happened before. other than that just some issues that people have already solved in the MR2 chassis, Returnless fuel system, drive by wire pedal. but I need to figure out how to run the coolant lines and all that. Edited October 11, 2015 by PseudoKirby 1 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 11, 2015 Author Report Posted October 11, 2015 Yeah cool mate, sounds like your well on your way with it. There is a great cooling system diagram on the net for these motors which I looked at to help design how it would work in my car. If you goggle 2az engine mechanical you should find it pretty easy. Its in a Toyota issued PDF. Shows how and where the coolant goes inside the motor and out. Looks great anyway mate. Quote
PseudoKirby Posted October 13, 2015 Report Posted October 13, 2015 I can really use a diagram like that, specially since the 3SGTE has a line running back for the radiator cap. I guess I need to keep looking 1 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) Did a bit more tuning today. Sam Q was legend enough to send me some 8mm spacers for my trumpets, so I've gone and added 8mm to them. Its definitely yielded a smoother more powerful drive, and Ive got 2 more sets to add once I find some longer bolts and re drill them. Should be able to see if anywhere up to 128mm trumpets will work best. I also went to Clark rubber and got all kinds of stuff to seal around the radiator core. i even got some of the boot seal type for above the the radiator under the plate where there was a big gap. Engine bay temps were reaching 50 degrees in the heat already so i have drilled a souple small sets of holes in the bonnet cap. Hard to notice but should make some difference. Added a ground to my oil pressure sender rail but neither sender is still working. Shredded a belt due to misaligned pulleys again so I played with that and I think its right now, fingers crossed. No squeaks so that's a good start, Ill have to see if the edges of the belt fray. Pulled out the NGK R group 1 one plugs that the tuner left in there and unfouled my iridium plugs with a copper brush, 2000 grit and solvent. Didn't improve starting but it does drive smoother. Had a faint weep from an oil pressure sender union so sealed that up. Took the wife for a drive for the first time and she agrees its nuts. Can hear a creaking from the rear floor, I noticed the cage baseplate has kind of distorted the floor and with all this driving lately its popped a spot weld open. Ill have to borrow Peters hoist and fix that, plus there's a couple of shitty hose clamps in the fuel system Id like to swap out, I bought some Tridons today and a metre of fresh efi hose. Picked up some tonneau loops to make a lid retainer for the battery box. Might do something similar with the hatch to pull the corners tight. Or I might use a bonnet pin, I'm undecided. Picked up a piece of roll cage padding from clark rubber but I don't know if it will fit. That's a job for another day. Edited October 15, 2015 by LittleRedSpirit Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Posted October 31, 2015 Treated her to some fresh hpr 5 and a filter. Might look at refitting the cooler warmer to the oil system just because I want this oil to stay in better condition. I can make it fit if I use a z386 filter instead of the z432. I used some tonneau cover loops to secure the battery box lid properly. Might go down to the sheet metal guy and see if he can put some louvred punches through the bonnet. Have also popped open the bleeder on the rear of the head to make sure there were no bubbles trapped, all good, only coolant seemed to dribble out. Really want to get the oil pressure gauge working, I don't know whats up with that. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Posted November 11, 2015 Have now fitted flush key locking bonnet Pins to the front end. Ill fit some to the hatch too soon. I would love some softer rear springs. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Posted November 14, 2015 The radiator now features a second thermo fan. Temps could creep to 92 degrees in stop start traffic so I've covered the entire core with fans now. Wish there was room for a shroud but the two fans will be fine. 30 dollar Ebay fans shit all over 100 dollar repco fans. I just added a wire from the second relay output pin. As a test I deleted the oil pressure gauge sender and the remote mount and just put the ae86 type oil pressure light switch back into the block and connected that. Bloody gauge doesn't work for me. I'm not a fan of oil coolers but I might have to fit one that will give me another location to add the sender natively. I would prefer the factory cooler warmer but I can kill 2 birds with one stone with an oil cooler. Next item is to make the tacho work though. I see my tacho wire is missing from the engine harness that comes forwards with the starter, reverse lights and senders etc. Ill have to find it wherever it is and make sure I can get it hooked up to the ecu. I've done the electronic mod inside the tacho itself so this should be the last thing. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Posted November 15, 2015 So now I have finally fixed the belt squeak from the multiirib belt. Turns out the scion tc pulleys have a different offset and sit further forwards so once I removed the pulley off the alternator I was able to work it out perfectly. Gotta give credit to my old man who looked at it and picked it up. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 13, 2015 Author Report Posted December 13, 2015 More tuning refinements. Today I got the tacho working pretty good. I ended up using a pullup coil to make it run right and I installed a variable resistor in the dash board in place of r1. I was able to adjust it nicely with the dash screen off. Yay! Works like factory. I've also noticed I failed to secure the power feed to the fan under the gaurd and it was rubbing on the tyre. That has been fixed and secured. Next thing will be to adjust and fit the hatch better and install its pins to stop it rattling around. Installed the centre console. Also met a nice dude who sold me a roof liner and some other bits and pieces like the boot area carpet and some random trim and vents. I'm going to saw the roof liner right in half and clean and paint it grey. Then I can probably fit in around the main hoop. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Posted December 16, 2015 Put in a new fuel sender and it seems to work fine now. Fuel gauge used to give a very poor account of what was in the tank, if at all. It was more of a yes or no thing. :yes: Almost got all the gauges working now but the darn oil pressure light. I have an ae86 oil pressure light switch plugged in to the dash but I can't ever see it light up, even when about to or cranking. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted December 16, 2015 Report Posted December 16, 2015 Might be a stupid question but have you actually checked the globe. That turned out to be my problem with same issue. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 16, 2015 Author Report Posted December 16, 2015 No I havent. Will do Quote
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