The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

[Taz_Rx]

I could be wrong.... But wouldn't the weight of the diff really not have much bearing on the function of the rear sway bar, being unsprung weight?

[LittleRedSpirit]

Well I figure if adding weight to the car needs a thicker bar, then adding weight to the diff might require a similar change as the heavier diff can have more momentum when in motion bouncing off potholes and bumps. I'm not really sure. Chris do you have an opinion on this from your racing background? Or is any effect as I see it handled by the springs and dampers more so? I certainly think compared to the stock diff, the same sway bars will have a different feel installed on a bigger diff. I dunno, I'm just so ʞ©$ɟing keen to finish it off right and get down to all the rewarding setup work like we are discussing now.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Wouldn't having a sway bar setup as an option at least not be a bad thing. I'd guess having all the mounts etc there and done now would be better than realising you need it later.

 

Though I suppose if it's gonna be a custom bar it could blow out price wise.

 

[LittleRedSpirit]

Nah it will have a stock one fit if I want. No custom it just has borgy swaybar mounts on it.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Ah nice, easy upgrade if needed. Is there I compatible rear sway bar thinner than a ke70 one?

[LittleRedSpirit]

don't think so

[LittleRedSpirit]

Now I have the new door hinges and the clock surround from AJPS. Cheers Dave.

 

Pulled the handbrake splitter out of a st185, and its the same as the ke70 one I have. lol. I'm going to make an adapter balance bar I think instead, by welding 2 of them together.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Dropped by Wacol wrecker and was shocked to see they have massively downsized the amount of Japanese cars they have on the lot. Maybe 10 Toyotas. Luckily, I needed parts from an SV21 and even with 10 cars there was still 2 of them. :clover:

 

 

I got the centre handbrake cable out and continued out to my mate James place at Mt Walker to have a beer and pull out the door bars from his spare car. Now thanks to James being a legend I have the door locks, matching ignition and two keys for it so I wont need to rekey later on. This weekend I can do a tonne of stuff if I get motivated. Handbrake set-up and adjustment, fit the door locks and rods, ignition lock, column plastics, door trims, and the rear sway bar.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Today I did a bit more. Rear Swaybar fitted. Handbrake cables bolted in nicely. Not a lot of adjustment but once the shoes are worn in it should be great.

 

I did a bit on the doors. I gutted the old mechanisms for the locks and striker, and cleaned inside. I had a tiny rust bit starting at the edge of the striker on the drivers side so I simply tin snipped it off and sanded and painted it out with silver.

 

I fitted the new striker mechs, locks, control bars and all the clips that hold them together, only to find that the door handles I have are busted on both sides. They both have one pivot broken off them and they move around and rattle and just barely actuate the door. Long story short - 2 brand new ones have been purchased and will arrive in a week or two from Japan. I also need one door handle bezel for the inside, any colour will do as I will paint them black. I could use a better drivers door handle but not essential, the lock could feel better but works ok. I've been wding things as I go and freeing them up as best I can. Helps a lot.

 

So I still couldn't attach the door trims and call it done. Just when you think you're done you need new parts. Oh and one more pita, the rear glass run rubber inside the door is just completely missing, so another pair of those have been ordered also. At least when it really is done its doing to be legit.

 

Also decided I wont weld up the ac holes in the dash as I don't want to rule out retrofitting a/c down the line sometime. 2azfe a/c pumps cost next to nothing and it could easily be adapted to the ae86 system.

 

Broken handles:

 

Swaybar and cables all buttoned up.

[LittleRedSpirit]

Just spoke to Rick.

 

I'm taking my headers in tomorrow to have the pipes swapped around and the phases corrected. Ill also grab my diff bush adapters back from him and have a go at fitting them myself just to button up the last issue under the rear end.

 

Then when I get the headers back I can refit and check the clearance and that will be my cue to remove the motor and tidy up the last few things in the tunnel and the bay, like spotting in some lugs for my fuel lines and fitting a reverse switch to the gearbox as well as some sump mods for the motor. At which point it can go back in and be run as soon as I buy an ecu.

[LittleRedSpirit]

 

Got psyched on working on the car today so I did plenty.

 

Rubbed the rough old clear coat off most of the roof and got it nice and smooth. I also removed the rear bar and fitted the number plate lights, routed the wiring and plugged in the fuel sender.

 

I noticed that the black stainless trim around the windows was totally sun baked, split, and trapping water on the moulding forcing the stainless to corrode, so I got a razor blade and shaved it all off. Then I buffed off the corrosion with 240-800-2000 wet n dry and it looks a lot better.

 

I removed the headers ready for them to be fixed tomorrow. I noticed a bit of stray material right in the ports so I die ground and buffed the ports out and cleaned them up nice. Same with the bottom collector. I took some photos of the space around them to show Rick so they still fit when we are done.

 

I fitted the steering column plastic, and since I had a boss kit on there, I had to remove an even skim of plastic all around the opening where the wheel connects. I did a real neat job on the sander.

 

I spent ages cleaning all the muck out of both doors and making sure the drain holes were free and clear.

 

James gave me a mad tip and I was able to make the 1/4 window clips work perfectly without all the correct bits. Word to James!

 

I removed the front right gaurd, cleaned under and inside it, and swapped to the new door hinges from AJPS.

 

I fitted a single wire handbrake switch, so now I can fit the centre console and not dick about with the wiring any more. Then seats next time I go in.

 

I locked off the coil over perches at a fairly tall height, just so the car remains easy to work on. I also adjusted the toe as it was toeing out badly when it wasn't on the ground. I'm sure its not perfect but its easier to push about the shop. Pumped up the tyres too, that helps. Noticed I had not installed the front sway bar links so I installed those.

 

I found my rose joined panhard rod that's on car adjustable in the cabinet so I painted it in gold engine enamel. Ill centre the diff next timeI go in to work on it.

 

Put wheels back on it, and then rolled it outside and washed it down with the fire hose. Its looking great IMO. Need to sort the bonnet out asap.

 

Hunted around through the shelves and found a overrated pair of old school Toyota monogram mud flaps, so they have been cleaned and will go on the rear of the car when the time comes. Need two more matching ones to make a set.

 

[TRD ke70]

looking good matt.

How's that A/C in the Celica?

oh and the sway bar question is a good one, still thinking about that. ;) :doh: :hmm: :blush: ;)

[LittleRedSpirit]

Ac in the Celica is great. I realised its been a bit warmer but noticed the trend was upwards when not moving so just simply realised it has blown the fan fuse. Its a mother of a fan its in need of a 25 amp fuse. When I put it together I had a 15 amp fuse which instantly went pop as it switched on, so I fitted a 20 amp fuse, and that's lasted a week or two. I just didn't have any specs on the massive fan when I put it in, but ʞ©$ɟ it moves some air. 25 Amps for the win.

 

On the swaybar question, I just fitted the stock one for now. Its going to have a minimal effect judging by the crumbling bushings, so I guess that's what I've decided to test first because I always liked stock or no swaybar better than having an oversize one, unless you just want to do skids. There are so many things I am curiuos about now.

 

I might go in today, pull off the 1/4 windows and refoam under them, and fit it all back together with an actual seal there. I got some fatter 12 wide x 9.5 tall neoprene foam instead of the factory closed cell foam. It should provide an enhanced seal, and it was under half the price of genuine foam.

 

Itching for my new door handles and my new glass runs to come so I can finally finish off the interior. I need to find a sound deadening product that I can line the floor with that is as good as the factory tar or better if possible. Its going to get really hot under the passengers feet otherwise and be so loud with a raspy vvti motor to listen to. I just pray the diff and gearbox are silent too. My last rolla had a small whine at one speed in the diff and I found it pretty annoying.

 

I'm going to ring Justin soon and see when I can get him back. There are a couple of oil pressure senders, idle controller, some missing bulbs, a purge solenoid and a couple of gauges to do to finish off the wiring.

 

I've been keeping the battery topped right up for you mate. :y:

Edited March 27, 2015 by LittleRedSpirit

[LittleRedSpirit]

Put hands on her today. Scraped and melted all the old foam tape off around the 1/4 windows. I found this to be rather unfun. I touched up 2 tiny specs of rust, hit the whole seal surface with epoxy and then moved on to the windows themselves. Melted the sticky stuff off them and I cleaned them up, then neatly fitted a full circumference of the new neoprene seal to the window.

 

Once I go back I can rub back around the windows and paint it out and then install them once and for all until it all comes apart for a full paint in the future sometime.

 

Fitted the centre console.

 

Washed some more areas like the dash and then blew and vacuumed all the dust I could from it.

 

Painted another coat on the panhard rod.

 

Need parts asap.

 

Looking cleaner inside.

 

 

Put a thin layer of epoxy in this recess.

 

[LittleRedSpirit]

In an odd twist of fate I had ordered 2 lots of parts from 2 different countries in the same ebay cart, and they turned up two days early together with the same postie. The yanks and the Japanese are on the same page these days.

and of course this means I have what now equates to 100 percent functional doors to assemble. I'm off to fit it up and grease the regulators as I go about it, then fit the door trims and it will look and feel ever more like a drive able car.

 

 

I found my idea of neoprene foam dint work out great so I have swapped it out for closed cell like the factory stuff. Must remember, toyota knows what they are doing.