Trev Posted October 17, 2011 Report Posted October 17, 2011 I seriously doubt you could justify the cost compared to the 1 maybe 2kw it would make. Before I get flamed YES we have done back to back tests! Stu. Engine or chassis dyno? Quote
Crowie55 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Posted October 17, 2011 Like Teddy said before; nothing I can add to this topic although I'm very interested and impressed with everything posted thus far good work lads :y: Quote
kickn5k Posted October 17, 2011 Report Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Engine dyno. Engine is in a circuit race boat. The engine was a 350 sb chev. Saw most increase from the manifolds both inlet and exhaust 15hp Then did the chambers. Made 7hp with the chambers done. Not all that much BUT he swears buy it. I reckon you would see the biggest increase power wise buy doing the chamber and the exhaust ports too. I'd still do it for longevity. Well I am doing it(chambers) just for a bit of detonation resistance. I don't need it for power I've got boost. I'm not against it don't get me wrong. Its just I believe you need to get the exh manifold, chamber and exh port to get maximum benefit(power wise). I'd also just do the manifolds just to drop bay temps. Stu. P.S that's going by the fact that "little red spirit" is getting the pistons done. That is a big YES from me. Edited October 17, 2011 by kickn5k Quote
diegoh Posted October 17, 2011 Report Posted October 17, 2011 Its just I believe you need to get the exh manifold, chamber and exh port to get maximum benefit(power wise) so thats a yes to my earlier post :rolls: I can even see durability as a power gain. 4-5hp lost as heat is a fair bit of heat that can soften a good head over time. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Posted October 17, 2011 Well a race engine is a short term proposition no matter what you do, id see the coatings as a way to prolong the healthy life in harsh conditions. If your motor goes good late in the season you will have an advantage. That being said, a 2azfe is not a race engine, not without a lot more work than I plan to do. I have a mate who used to be an engine reconditioner for Repco about 15 years ago, that frequently rebuilds engines to this day. He is going to help me pull the engine down and reassemble it with the pistons and show me a few tricks along the way. He keeps telling me to build a hot head to go with the higher comp bottom end, but with a new stock head I'd rather use that for now. I will most likely get a second hand head in the longer term and slowly port that and save up for oversize valves and a set of BC stage 3 camshafts and valve springs with Ti retainers etc. Probably wont get Ti valves as Ive been doing some reading and they seem to burn away over time. Stainless might be the go. Its all down the track anyhow. For now I need to focus on headers, belt arrangement, intake, wires, ecu and a tune. Quote
diegoh Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 I'm confused with Ti valves having not done any research on them in the durability area. Is the alloy used for Ti, inconel? cause if the right type of inconel is used like on turbine wheels in turbo, it should last a long time and suffer no oxidation like pure Ti or mostly Ti does which is coated in all engine parts made from it. I supposed thermal coated stainless with pocketed undersides would be good too and maybe with smaller diameter stems if not already 7mm? This is an often used practice for less inertia in valves but I'm sure Toyota already has done this? Quote
Sam_Q Posted October 20, 2011 Report Posted October 20, 2011 for a basic engine build I would see no point in going for anything more than stainless valves 1 Quote
orangeLJ Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 I'm extremely impressed with the amount of R&D you are putting into the whole process, its not something common these days and I believe you will be a pioneer of this conversion, followed by a heap of other in the years to come. I'm looking at 4cylinder engine options to fit to an early 4 cylinder torana (TA) and was considering a 4AGTE, however with the added torgue and ability to remain N/A and still make power at sensible speeds, I'm seriously liking this conversion more and more. Id be interested in pictures of your starter/bellhousing setup if you ever get a chance (and don't mind sharing) Keep up the good work. Chris. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Posted November 3, 2011 Hello, no, not the last 2 weeks, I actually have some work to do. lol. :dance: :lolcry: But I am looking to have the manifolds made soon so I can finish work on it in the holidays, I have a feeling December wont be quite as bad as Novemeber, but will have to wait and see. I'm still waiting for the Custom Pistons to be made, and shipped over. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Posted November 10, 2011 Custom Pistons are on their way now. Yippee. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted November 14, 2011 Author Report Posted November 14, 2011 CP pistons are here now, and man are they a nice looking piece of kit. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Posted December 1, 2011 Need to source a headgasket to suit standard 88.5 mm bore. Also wondering if I should reuse the near new rod bolts or change them. Opinions? Can any of my Toyota homies help out? :lolcry: Quote
RedKE30 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Posted December 1, 2011 Need to source a headgasket to suit standard 88.5 mm bore. Also wondering if I should reuse the near new rod bolts or change them. Opinions? Can any of my Toyota homies help out? :lolcry: Are you looking for a Toyota homie to help you with cheaper parts? If so I can probably help you out. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 2, 2011 Author Report Posted December 2, 2011 Are you looking for a Toyota homie to help you with cheaper parts? If so I can probably help you out. That would be awesome. Do you reckon I can reuse the rod bolts, its a new motor, but should they be only torqued once? Quote
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