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Posted

I'm still wondering if you can run a ke20 balljoint in the ke10 A-arm, Doesn't look far off, then you could modify knuckles for more lock and fit ke20 struts with the disk's etc

 

Technotoytuning weld kits seem better to me than otomoto ones and they're only $199US + Post so around $250AUD

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Posted

I'll just get some standard ones to begin with so i can get it registered. The coilover kits have definitely peaked my interest though.

Posted (edited)

Mate if you want to dispose of those butchered ones, let me know...

 

And it's piqued not peaked LOL. :lolcry:

 

(sorry couldn't help myself)

Edited by philbey
Posted

can you run the weld on coilover kit without the camber tops? or is it worth doing it all to start with? if you wanna practise fitting it philbey let me know cause my welding skills are at a minimum haha might look at buying it September/october

Posted

Yeh for sure, it's just that stock struts are close to the body so you can't pull them in much before they hit. If the coilovers are narrower you can get a little extra.

 

I got a price for a group buy of the Otomoto kit that was pretty good, but it hasn't been a priority for me at the minute.

Posted

Mate if you want to dispose of those butchered ones, let me know...

 

And it's piqued not peaked LOL. :lolcry:

 

(sorry couldn't help myself)

 

 

My bad, i wasn't learned at school.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry to sound like a noob but if i wanted to put a swaybar in this thing how would i do that?. How do you put one in a car that never had one?. I've never had a registered ke10 before only ke30's and 20's so this is new territory for me.

Posted (edited)

Fairly straightforward, the whiteline Kit has brackets that connect to the body and the control arm. You will need to drill holes to fit them but otherwise straightforward..

 

From an engineering aspect, the control arm bracket is rubbish. It'll hinge a lot through the bolted joint, and it's inherently not very stiff, so it wont be as effective as it first appears.

 

Also, they are notorious for clashing with brake calipers when you run later model discs (ke20 items)

 

I haven't fitted mine but I'm considering modifying it to use the blade style connection with rod ends for adjustability.

Edited by philbey
Posted

Philbey I'm same as you at the moment. no huge cash flow so sometime in future when your more ready hit us up with a pm and see where I'm at.

 

sorry for hijack please continue.

Posted

I've gone with the otomoto kit and think it's of good quality. I've also got the hopper stopper kit so I'm getting a custom bar made 22mm thick by signature sway bars for under $300. I'll try and get some photos up soon

Posted

I'm still wondering if you can run a ke20 balljoint in the ke10 A-arm, Doesn't look far off, then you could modify knuckles for more lock and fit ke20 struts with the disk's etc.

No but yes Jono. I have 20 struts in mine with 20 balljoints and 10/11 arms. Not good if your trying to get neg camber. The 20 balljoint needs to be tack welded into the 10 arm.

I'm doing a new setup for mine so keep an eye on my rides thread. Oh and I might have to tooling soon to mod 10 steering arms for 20 balljoint shafts soon too. Keep y'all posted.

 

Stu.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Decided to trash the whole front setup and go with later model front suspension and steering. Don't know how i'm going to do it yet or how well it will work but the standard stuff is rubbish.

Posted

The standard stuff isn't rubbish. It just needs refining. Adjust the steering box, ke20 springs, swaybar and disk brakes and you'll be fine.

 

No need to replace the front end unless you intent to push and punnish it.

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