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Posted

Hey fellas, been looking on this forum for a while and its about time to post sum pics up.

 

Its a late ke70 with a slant front

 

Engine: 4K

Reground cam(works best between 4000-7500revs)

Extractors

Sump Baffles

Aluminium harmonic balencer

Lightened flywheel 9.5 kgs (std one was 20kg)

new filters and oil

Scat racing valve springs

 

Suspension:

Rose jointed LCA's extended 30mm

Springs, cut 1 1/2 coils off

Rear swaybar removed

14" mags with rally tyres

 

Body:

Stripped

Rollcage

Kirkey aluminium race seat (cover not on in pics)

Saas gauges

Impact race harness

Aluminium fuel tank 30L

 

Excuse the left over sound deadner in the car haha

 

P5280145.jpg

 

P6060001.jpg

 

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Made a strutbrace:

P7030019.jpg

 

P7030016.jpg

 

And got exaust made:

 

rolla001.jpg

 

rolla003.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm now sourcing parts for a 5K convertion with:

 

4xmotorbike carbs

Heavy duty clutch

Alloy radiator

Electric thermo fan

Electric fuel pump

T-series diff

De-burred head and block

Bored to 1600cc

Flat top pistons

Ported and polished head

Bigger cam

Three angle valve seats

Knife edged and lightened crank

All balanced

 

Also a T3 coilover weld on kit and camber tops are on the way

 

I have organised most of the parts, just need a 5k now, if anyone has any info of 1 in WA please let me know

 

Cheers, Brenton

Posted

What's the brake bias like Brenton?? Lock up the rears on dirt?? It looks like you're running a stock system, which means there is a lot of room for improvement as braking can affect the handling just like turning the steering wheel.

Posted

Brake bias is fine, we removed the booster and added the hydraulic handbrake and when you put your foot on the pedal it bypasses the handbrake system. On our local track there is suprisingly very little braking needed and most of that is done with the hydraulic handbrake to help it get around the corners.

 

Hope that helps

 

cheers.

Posted (edited)

Just literally unbolt it, make a convertion plate that goes from the 4 holes in the firewall to the 2 holes in the cylinder(i used some 5mm ali)then take the end of the pushrod(cylinder side) and weld that onto the pedal side(cutting to length between this)there is a fair bit of adjustment if its not a perfect length, i didnt even take the brake lines off. No brake bleeding for me!

Edited by lappy36
Posted

No, your rear brake line goes into where the resovior would normally be of the handbrake master cylender and exits from the other end going to the rear brakes.

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