t18drifts Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 hay guy gals ppls homies ect whats the go with adjustable front strut bars they worth getting and would a ke70 one fit a t18 cheers matt and is it worth getting adjustible panhard rod (for AE86 ke70) for te72 :cool: Quote
rian Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 If your rear left wheel isn't scrubbing I don't see why you would need an adjustable panhard rod. And I think it depends which series T18 you have as to whether the strut brace would fit or not, someone may know? Quote
t18drifts Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Posted June 25, 2011 ive got some money to blow on shit only 150 wana get somthing to help handling n shiz so are front strut bars worth buying Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 Depends what you are using the car for. I've got an adjustable panhard rod but only cos I got it cheap. Your not running mad offset yet so probably not worth wasting money on. A strut brace is a good add if you have other stuff to go with it, better shocks etc. Quote
Jono.C Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 Strut braces are useless unless they're a 3 point brace imo, as the just pull the towers either way, Unlike a 3 point which goes to the firewall and to both towers. Here's a guy in tassies 3tgte T18 Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 Yup 3 point FTW. That's a hell nice one. buy some new bushes, prob do a better job than a Shitty 150 dollar brace. Quote
t18drifts Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Posted June 25, 2011 its on paypal lol this money so I'm limited to ebay realy Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 On the Altezza the best thing I ever did was a thicker rear sway (Cusco one). When I fitted a strut brace I could feel the difference, but it was not as much as the rear sway. That's why I grabbed the Celica rear sway for the KE70 when I saw it. We ran an adjustable cross-strut brace on the rally car, mainly so we could wind it out and stop them moving in over yumps. In order, I'd do- springs and shocks sway bars LCAs rims & tyres and by then the G-forces would be twisting the chassis so do braces! Quote
dbr11k Posted June 25, 2011 Report Posted June 25, 2011 definatly start with all new nolathane style bushes.. and than maybe an adjustable rear sway bar. Quote
t18drifts Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Posted June 25, 2011 ok will it be a noticible improvement :) Quote
SkidzMgee Posted June 30, 2011 Report Posted June 30, 2011 Bushes replaced will instantly tighten up the feel you get from your suspension due to the harder compound used in newer bushes, usually nolathane style uses a form of hardened rubber, and will replace near 30 year old cracking rubber, or if they've been replaced with OEM options, upgrade you to a stiffer compound that wont flex as much. Rose joints are the next step up, but will cause you to feel EVERY pebble you run over, cost you a overrated, and suck on the street. If you've got $150 to blow, find as many bushings on your car that you can whack Nolathane or similar into :) Well worth it Quote
KENut Posted July 1, 2011 Report Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) AJPS was doing a front end bush package for KE70/AE86, obviously theres a few bits in the kit that you wouldnt need (rack bushes) but you could ask him about doing a kit for your car. Oh and I had a cusco strut brace in my old car, definately made a difference, at least with the coilovers. Edited July 1, 2011 by KENut Quote
ke70dave Posted July 1, 2011 Report Posted July 1, 2011 i did bushes last on my car. made a huge difference and i didndt even replace them all (just did 4 link, panhard rod and castor rod) i reckon 4 link bushes made the biggest difference. rear end so much tighter.front castor bushes were also good. those are quite cheap too. but i also did the front strut brace (cheapest i could get, was "adjustable" though), i reckon it felt better. could have been placebo effect though:P i remember watching a video where they did back to back testing of strut brace and no strut brace, through a series of chicanes, and to quantify the difference they were measuring maximum suspension compression (wire tie around the shock shaft, see how high it went up). with the strut brace installed they were getting a bit more suspension compression, and their reasoning was that the brace stiffened up the chassis, so it didn't flex, and thus sent more force into the suspension. seemed reasonably legitimate. Quote
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