Fabz Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 Hey guys. I'm searched the site and google and I can't get a clear answer. The can doesn't even tell you properly. This is what I did last week. Cleaned the area of surface rust then applied the rust converter. I just went to see how it's look and feels. And it's still really soft. And yeah. What do I do once it is applied?? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!! Quote
seabiscuit Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 Hey guys. I'm searched the site and google and I can't get a clear answer. The can doesn't even tell you properly. This is what I did last week. Cleaned the area of surface rust then applied the rust converter. I just went to see how it's look and feels. And it's still really soft. And yeah. What do I do once it is applied?? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!! Contact the company who make it. Quote
Oh-KE Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 Your supposed to remove as much of the rust as possible with wire brush or something first but what ever is left put converter on it. Sounds like theres still a lot of rust there if it's still soft. Got pics? It's not perfect and you are better of removing all the rust completely than converting it but it does slow the spread of the rust a fair bit. Good luck Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 (edited) The phosphoric acid turns the iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate. It really only works well on fresh surface rust. Old rust and thick rust just don't get cleaned up very well. I did some last night on a mate's Commode where he had the front guard off, and the rust from the last month just vanished completely but the old rust was still there. The liquid can't penetrate rust. Edited June 12, 2011 by altezzaclub Quote
Fabz Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Posted June 12, 2011 What are you saying then. So I Shouldnt be using it on my 78 rolla???? I bought the 3m rust converter and primer. It actually has instructions on it. And some guys on here said it's decent. So I'm gonna give it a shot tomorrow. I just don't understand. Does it get cleaned of after the curing time or does it get left on? Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 I always thought it got cleaned off. The old ones I used to wash off with lots of water, last nights's said to wipe off with a wet cloth and then wipe with meths. Its a water-based acid, so on my KE70 I wiped it over afterwards with a wet cloth with baking soda on. That neutralised the acid and I washed it and dried it before putting primer on. Becasue it can't penetrate rust you need just surface rust left on the steel. Any thickness of rust will only have the surface converted. I think old rust gets oil & dirt on it that forms a varnish & stops the stuff doing the conversion. It was very noticeable on the Commonwhore last night, the fresh rust just vanished and the old rust hardly changed. Quote
BlueKsev Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 From memory the 3m one says to leave the rust converter on I'm pretty sure. It will say on the bottle anyway but it worked fine for me. Yeah you just need to spend a bit of time trying to scrape as much rust off before you put it on and its always worked fine for me Quote
love ke70 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 yeah some you wash off and some you leave on. i used the white knight rust gaurd on my trailer, and as was said, it really only works on slight rust. if its pitted, no hope, its really a de-oxidiser, so it will de-oxidise whats been oxidised, but only to a certain extent... Quote
Fabz Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Posted June 12, 2011 Ok sweet. That's all good then. Well basically whats happening is there is one spot on my boot where is has slightly Gone through. How should I go about this. Do I bog it or what? And all the edges ok the inside are pretty much rusted. Should I rust converter all that? Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 Can you hit them with a rotary wire brush on a drill, then rust converter, then clean that off as well as you can and paint it with metal anti-rust primer. Then it will last for another 30years. Seams are hard, the rust keeps going as the seam picks up water every time the car gets wet and any dirt in the seam holds the water there and promotes the rust. If it literally is a tiny hole in the boot, hit it with rust converter, clean then metal primer, then bog it. If you can put your finger through it then fibreglass is better to bridge the hole, or weld a panel over it and do it permanently. Quote
Fabz Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Posted June 13, 2011 No it's only a few tiny wholes. A radius of 2mm if anything. Ok sweet. I need to buy a drill too. Ive got wire brushes for now. But yeah I'll give all that a shot. Thanks a lot! Quote
love ke70 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Posted June 13, 2011 if your convertor doesnt say to clean it off, don't clean it off, if it does say to though, do so. and I'm pretty sure you shouldnt put it in contact with paintwork :) other than that, altezza is on the money cheers, andy Quote
Fabz Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Posted June 13, 2011 thanks so much to all of you, i used the 3m today and it worked a lot better. the only thing is i have a lot of rust spots that are really rusted and yeah, its like old rust, its really thick, like what altezza said, what do i do about those spots. and also while i was sanding the doors today i realized that they have some major rust spots on that, the bottom of one door is that rusted you can nearly bend the metal, i will upload pics, i need help on how to fix this or whether i need to get another door. Quote
Fabz Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Posted June 13, 2011 this is the inside of the rust along the bottom edge of the door this is the outside of the rust along the bottom edge of the door this are large areas on a door that i do not know what to do about, will i need a new door, or fibreglass, or a whole lot of rust converter?? Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 13, 2011 Report Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) How fussy are you about what it looks like, and how long do you want it to last?? Best- find good doors or cut out the rusted areas and have new steel welded in. 2nd Best- Hit those areas with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, inside and out. Fibreglass with resin inside to give a strong panel, then bog the outside and paint. 3rd option- Hit just around the holes with a grinder using coarse sandpaper and remove all the bog and paint and rust, outside only, and bog the holes over. Use wide gaffer tape inside to bog against.... Bog and fibregalss should always go onto a clean rust-free surface. Those doors are unsurprisingly crappy, I assume the car has lived at the coast. There are door at the wrecker here in Orange with no rust at all. I don't know if you easily find good UN-BOGGED doors where you live. Edited June 13, 2011 by altezzaclub Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.