Freeing Balljpoints/Tie Rods

[springersrolla]

Ok, ive done alot of tie-rods and ball joints in my time, and wether its the first one, or the last one i do,i always get a stubborn one, i wanna hear your options or opinions on how you go getting that one annoying taper free

 

i've used tie-rod/ball joint fork separators,

the fork setup with the wind in thread,

hammer on one end of tierod/ball joint - wind the nut out until i hit the nut instead of the thread,

drive a chisel or wedge between the taper and the fixed part its stuck on

weight or long bar putting weight or strain on the arm to give it something to help loosen it

heat on the area to free it

 

yet I'm still getting times where I'm stuck. Ive broken forks, broken the fork with thread shit, just wondering what you guys use as a method???

 

I'm currently doing the relay rod, next to the pitman arm, and stuggling to get an accurate hit of my drift onto the thread. whatever goes ive got it coated in penetrene and will see how i go tomorrow

 

cheers

[parrot]

Use a tierod separator of some description. It has to fit well or you are wasting your time.

 

Once you have load applied, hit the steering arm or whatever on the side next to where the pin is, don't hit the nut/balljoint/tierod pin

[Old fella]

Put a hammer or a drift up against the eye part and then hit the other side with another hammer. That distorts the eye momentarily and the taper should pop out. Works for me. Cheers.

[greenmac80]

+1 as above! works every time.

[philbey]

II use one of those lever tie rod breakers, where you clamp it on and wind the thread til it pops, much better than the fork.

[towe001]

II use one of those lever tie rod breakers, where you clamp it on and wind the thread til it pops, much better than the fork.

Its the same thing i do.

Had one of those fork things years ago and stuffed it on its second ball joint. Dug a groove into one of the fingers and bent the other finger outwards, so the tool looked more like "Y" shape.

And if ball joint or tie-rod is stuck, my next step is -

Once you have load applied, hit the steering arm or whatever on the side next to where the pin is, don't hit the nut/balljoint/tierod pin

[ke70dave]

the hammer on the wound out nut is my strategy, worked so far....

 

though i forgot the nut once, 1hr spent with a thread file got my tie rod back into shape!

 

i tried one of those clamp things once, but you really have to get a good quality one, or they just bend and are a waste of time.

 

i have heard that if you get 2 hammers and give the sides of the steering arm a good wack (at the same time, so hitting towards each other) it can release the taper. never tried it though.

[springersrolla]

the tierod fork came to the rescue for me tonight. ive used the 2fingered tierod breaker with the wind in thread before, and broke one of the cast iron arms and sent it flying past my head when it snapped. of course i had all the p.p.e. on when that happend. problem was where the thread was it was practically resting fingers width from the engine crossmember so i had no room.

 

i still find that if i do 4, and the first 3 will be easy as pie, and the last usually takes me an hour or so. ive been meaning to try that Freeze it in a can, but yeah its great to hear all the tips and advice.

 

I've been lucky with good existing ones, usually put a bit of antiseize on the taper and it comes free with ease.

 

Thanks for the options but lads

[love ke70]

use a puller, never failed me in a spot you can get to, if not the fork, might demolish the balljoint, but your usually replacing it anyway, just need a quality fork and a big hammer.

[redae71]

smash the stub axle as hard as you can, if that doesnt work, get the oxy on it then smash it, never ever failed me

[philbey]

this is the one I use by the way.

 

 

springer, I understand your comment completely, I fully expect my cast iron one to shatter on me. Cast iron is notoriously poor under tension, so I always wear the googles!

 

I've always used the wound out nut/hammer trick, but it's almost impossible to get a good swing on a KE10 to break the tierod on the idler arm.

 

Also, the 911 tie rods you can only get at under the car, no engine bay to come at it from the top, so these clamp type ones are the best option. I have a cheapy but I'll buy a quality forged on some day.

[altezzaclub]

Hold it guys!

 

You are not meant to wind up those Y-fork tools until the joint pops!

 

You use it to put some push onto the top of the taper nut, then hit the side of the eye with a hammer. This style...

 

Put a hammer or a drift up against the eye part and then hit the other side with another hammer.

 

That involves a lot less damage than either method by itself.