Ke70 Wont Start

[Spencer[RL]]

Hey Everyone

 

Since installing my quads and replacing some fuses after soldering the wrong headlight cables together :laff: my car wont start,without jumping off another car. I've had a very similar issue when I first bought it , I worked out it was volt drop from the corroded leads coming off the battery so that was all replaced and Replaced with a isolator, good cables and also got Brand new Century Battery. After that the car ran like a dream and started first time ,every-time. Now the dash is lite up pretty normally but when I turn the Key the dash is hardly visible and it turns over a little, then struggles, then stops turning over and makes a whining noise from the starter. I've gone through the whole engine bay to make sure everything was connected and grounded properly, Double checked the fuses and got my multimeter out and checked the battery (11.97V) and still nothing, :bash:

 

It seems like I've either got , Volt Drop grounded cable

 

If anyone can give me suggestions would be great

[Evan G]

bad earth! how many earths you running?

[Spencer[RL]]

Do I need to earth the Headlights?

Got a couple earth's

[Evan G]

neg. slow cranking = voltage drop to the starter

 

put your multimeter on the postive pole on the starter then get someone to crank it and how much voltage drop you get

[BReNt]

I agree with Evan. Put a jumper lead from the earth terminal on your battery to somewhere on the motor that is metal and see if it starts.

[Spencer[RL]]

Evan - Will give that a go tomorrow

 

Brent - Silly question but where is the Battery Earth

 

Cheers guys

[jimmy-d]

Just because you have 11+ volts at the battery when you do a standing test does not mean that it is ok as if there is a problem the battery will drain when under load eg. cranking. Follow the advice of the guys above.

Your description definitely sounds to me like there is an issue with voltage at the actual starter and of course the dimming lights.

 

PS- there should be a heavy wire of the negative side of the battery and connected to the body via a bolt in the vicinity of the battery and also a thinner wire joining the body of the car to the engine block often down near the gearbox area.

Edited May 3, 2011 by jimmy-d

[Evan G]

Evan - Will give that a go tomorrow

 

Brent - Silly question but where is the Battery Earth

Cheers guys

 

battert earth means negative side of the battery to the body/chassis (basically follow the negative lead)

[Spencer[RL]]

Ok so I Found the Earth of the battery its into the sidewall of the engine bay, put a jump lead on it( Red ) and put the other Red on a Timing cover Bolt Jumped into the car turned the ISO over and realised if you wiggle the switch on the ISO the dash goes bright to dim to off to bright depending where the switch is! So anyway put the switch where it gets the dash the brightest an turned the key and the same old noise...so I'm think its the ISO, I recently remounted the ISO on a new steel dash at the same time of doing the headlights :laff: so tomorrow I will put a bolt through the leads at the ISO and see how I go.

[Evan G]

fail isolator? :lolcry:

[Spencer[RL]]

Have to wait and see :hmm:

Got the ISO from my Girlfriends Brother , He's A auto electrician and knows his shit :drgrim:

[LittleRedSpirit]

There will be a big fat white wire coming from the stock loom to the battery positive, I think this supplies the key and dash with power which in turn goes to the 12v trigger of the starter when you key it. Its often brittle and in poor condition in old ke70 looms, so try cutting a bit off the end if its brittle or damaged and pull it up a bit, crimp on a new lug and bolt it on the battery with everything else. There's 3 wires in a plastic connector there in a 70/71 loom. Its often completely rooted. I think from memory: green, yellow and the big white one. You can't really easily get a plug and pins to replace it but you can easily just cut off the ends and crimp on new lugs, bolt it to the positive terminal and see if that helps. I've just had to do this with my loom as I have been having similar starting issues. My dash lights were shit and blinking sometimes before I did this, but now its even luminescence and good cranking when it starts.

 

Good luck.

 

Also, is your alternator charging properly? Condition of the cable from alternator to battery?

Edited May 4, 2011 by LittleRedSpirit

[Spencer[RL]]

My Girlfriends Brother just phoned and he's saying that I need to take it for a good drive, he thinks its just the battery.

It kinda does make sense because after getting a jump and starting the car , If i let it run for a good 5minutes you can start it on its own battery but does struggle. Also says that the sealed beams I have in the lights do suck a lot of juice, he recommends I go onto H4..

[Teddy]

Pending the wiring of the system is correct - If the battery is in a charged, equal state across all the plates, there is no excessive parasitic current draw when the vehicle is in a totally "off" position & the alternator is correctly charging the battery, then it would most likely indicate that the battery has insufficient capacity due to age & irrespective of how much you charge it (either via a charger or the alternator), it simply doesn't have enough punch left in it to crank the motor.

[Spencer[RL]]

Teddy - You correct, I just need to drive her more.I been installing them quads and trying to get my radio going so battery is just to tired to turn it over. I'm going to throw another battery in her today from my other car and see if she starts . If so that's the problem. And will replace that dodge isolator.