thcraig87 Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Posted March 31, 2011 Thanks heaps for all the information guys, it has really given me heaps of ideas as to what to do. The only burning question that kind of remains un-answered is the shaving the head idea. I was thinking of staying with standard pistons (I have a set of new ones that came with the rebuild kit) and taking a little extra off the head when it is getting machined. Good or bad idea? Oh and the other thing was, are there any differences between small and big port engines to be careful of when purchasing the parts? Should the rebuild kit, cams etc. all be the same? The real question being, is it just the ports that are different in the 16 valve n/a versions? Thanks again. Quote
ke70dave Posted March 31, 2011 Report Posted March 31, 2011 i can't help you with the head shaving question.. but dig through this http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock2.htm that website has an unbeliveable amount of information. read it all! conrod bearing size changes between bigport and smallport (40mm vs 42mm). i can't comment on the camshafts, check catalogues etc. see if they specifiy different ones? contact suppliers of camshafts and see what they say. Quote
SLW42 Posted April 1, 2011 Report Posted April 1, 2011 I'd have to say call an engine bulider or someone in your area that can shave the head and port it for you, ask them how much they can take off before it really starts to affect things like where the cams will have to sit so that nothing bashed into anything and causes any real issues, an engine builder will 7times out of ten be pretty sure what the tolerances and crap are, if not call a toyota dealership they should have the info on thier computers or in a book hidden somewhere!!!!! Quote
kickn5k Posted April 1, 2011 Report Posted April 1, 2011 If you still want to use the pistons you have but have clearence issues. Special piston services in Vic can cut them deeper if there is enough meat under the pocket. Not all that expensive either. If you go 4agz/te you'll still need to get an aftermarket ecu if your going to mod that. Believe me when I say boost is addictive!! Stu. Quote
snot35 Posted April 1, 2011 Report Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) Also if you shave the head you'll have to re tweak your cam timing. Adjustable gears will be the go. Edited April 1, 2011 by snot35 Quote
Hiro Protagonist Posted April 2, 2011 Report Posted April 2, 2011 conrod bearing size changes between bigport and smallport (40mm vs 42mm). i can't comment on the camshafts, check catalogues etc. see if they specifiy different ones? contact suppliers of camshafts and see what they say. Late 7-rib bigports had the same 42mm crank size as the smallports. Camshafts are different between bigports and smallports too, especially the early bigports, but people have frequently put bigport cams into smallport engines so they are cross-compatible (just with varying results). Quote
Trev Posted April 2, 2011 Report Posted April 2, 2011 (edited) Throw somw bigport cams in it, simplest and cheapest mod you can do. Only the 1st gen bigport (bluetop) had 18/40mm conrods, all the other 16 valves had 20/42 (including the gen 2 bigport). EDIT: what Ian said. Edited April 2, 2011 by Trev Quote
Twincam16seca Posted April 5, 2011 Report Posted April 5, 2011 Billzilla's page says you can run up to 264deg cams on the stock ecu, but as said before it may not give the maximum performance of the cams. Not sure if you have done a cold air intake and exhaust system, i'd suggest a shielded 3A racing pod (come 2nd in filtration and 1st in flow in Autosalon's testing-can't get much better than that), GOOD headers (I have RS*R)-high flow cat and a 2-2&1/4" straight through system to a nice sport muffler (not a cannon!). This is what i have done to my AE82 seca and it goes a lot better, also has nice induction and exhaust note. Thats my 2cents Quote
thcraig87 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) Thanks for all the information guys. I think big port cams or 256s might be the go depending on availability and cost and a bit of port and head work.It already has a 2" exhaust and extractors on her with a muffler (not a cannon :) ) I was thinking a pod filter, because I do like the note and have been told by many about the better performance. I haven't done it as yet though, because there is a sensor sticking out of the back of the stock air box. What do I do with that? Where does it go? Edited April 6, 2011 by thcraig87 Quote
ke70dave Posted April 7, 2011 Report Posted April 7, 2011 that sensor will just be an intake temperature sensor. i reckon if you are going to go the pod option you could just insert the sensor anywhere in the intake track. whats more important than the filter itself, is making sure that it is sucking cold air. mount the pod low behind your bumper, and run a new pipe upto the engine, ensuring that if you go through a huge puddle, the filter wont get wet! engines love cold air. if you just replace airbox with pod, it may sound better, but it may not go any better if it is just sucking hot engine bay air! Quote
thcraig87 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Thanks, once again all good stuff. Sounds like an easy enough job. I will let you all know how she goes in the build section. Cheers Quote
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