SLO-030 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Posted March 20, 2011 Interesing. Running a std wagon/pano/late 55 22mm swaybar. Might double it up and see how it goes. Quote
jono1986 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Posted March 20, 2011 Not a suspension expert myself but if your front bar is solidly mounted wouldn't that itself be the reason it's so stiff? Quote
coln72 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Posted March 21, 2011 It was solid mounted to the radius rods. Two mounts on each. It wasnt attatched to the body at all, like the standard bar is. It was only thin but made a hell of a difference. Quote
Oh-KE Posted March 21, 2011 Report Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) Found some interesting info on performance forums regarding cheap ke30 suspension mods. Posted by cheapracer. Ok heres how to set up a '74 Corolla KE30 for general street and fun work... Cut the springs as I said above to get about an 1" out of them with little other effect, don't worry about the shit some are spinning because the bulk of Japanese cars have formed spring platforms and not ground springs ). While the struts are off remove the strut seals and replace the oil with 15 weight - (measure how much oil comes out of the strut and replace equal amount). Go to the wreckers and buy another standard front anti roll bar for about $5. Remove the front anti roll bar and throw the front U clamp rubbers in the bin. Replace the front roll bar along with the new old rollbar (2 roll bars) which fit snuggly into the U clamps without the rubber and the end struts have more than enough thread to the now 2 ends (make sure you get the end mount rubbers and cup washers from the wrecker. remove the front caster rod inner spacing tubes and cut 10 mm off to crush/stiffen up the rubbers a bit more and replace adding a bit of caster while you're there. Remove the rear springs and shocks. Get some scrap bar to size and replace the front leaf spring eye bushes with the steel bushes (this also increases the anti roll effect of the leaves). Drill some 5 mm holes in the shocks and drain the oil then weld 8mm nuts on somewhere in the middle and refill with 15 weight using a bolt and copper washer to cap it. Put everything back but leave out the leaf springs rubber insulator pads lowering the car a half inch - shorten the shackles if you need more. Lock the diff. Go out and have a lot of fun for over 5 years driving to work daily and doing many various club events with a huge smile on your face for $10 worth of mods. Some of it sounds a little dodgy to me lol... Edited March 21, 2011 by Oh-KE Quote
coln72 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Posted March 21, 2011 Tried the refilling of the struts with thicker oil. Worked but you need to use hydrolic oil not old sump oil...... Chewed the seals out in no time :blinks: Knowo a guy who fitted his struts with grease nipples and pumped some bearing grease into them, but that was only an Anglia. Quote
Evan G Posted March 21, 2011 Report Posted March 21, 2011 i tried this with proper motorbike fork oil, real thick shit i personally didnt feel a difference but wasted a good afternoon Quote
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