67Rolla-Ken Posted September 20, 2011 Report Posted September 20, 2011 I have a shed... and 3 more cars than I can fit in said shed. If it wasn't for my lovely, sensible wife I'd need a bigger block by now! :lol: Quote
Jono.C Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Posted September 21, 2011 Now own a fibreglass dash ;) Well, fibreglassed my current dash after repairing all the cracks. Might make a mould of it to make another a fibreglass one in future.. Looks the goods :D Now needs to be trimmed and it can go back in the car :y: Quote
67Rolla-Ken Posted September 21, 2011 Report Posted September 21, 2011 Nice. I have thought about doing this... now I'm not sure if I follow Tommy's dads method with the body filler or this. I think this would be a more longterm solution. :hmm: Quote
Jono.C Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) Well the expanda foam is easy to work with and not too bad to sand. $15 for a can and i still have half left.. Mine had some rather big cracks so thats why i used some body filler to even some parts out.. I fiberglassed it to make it stronger and because expanda foam can expand in sun/ heat.. So didn't want to get it fully trimmed and then have it bubble.. All up it cost less than $40 :yes: I can always take photo's of give you advice on how to do it if you want.. But it's a lot cheaper than paying some to do it :y: Edited September 21, 2011 by Jono.C Quote
67Rolla-Ken Posted September 21, 2011 Report Posted September 21, 2011 Thanks, I actually have access to a qualified laminater (fiberglasser)... my bro, so I should be all right. The cracks in my dash aren't too bad so I might start with the body filler method then make a mould off her... still not sure if the dash is the right one for my car (there are apparently 3 different sizes for KE1X's). Quote
Jono.C Posted September 24, 2011 Author Report Posted September 24, 2011 Yeah it should be alright, i know the early dashpad is different to the late dash, but they do fit eachother, just look weird.. Got a final engine plan for this thing now. The 5kc-t will go ahead but once thats done the new engine build will start Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Posted September 25, 2011 Yo! Somehow my 4x114.3 fat rims managed to squeeze onto my 4x110 hubs.. So i took some piccys.. Now i'm not sure what to do.. So i'm needing your opinions.. 1 - Somehow get the rims to fit under the stock guards and lower it 2 - Fit the bolt on flares and get some fatness cranking 3 - Flare the steel guards on th car to get some fatness.. Mind you the rim on the front is wearing a fatter 175 not the 165 it will have.. KGO! Quote
Jono.C Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Posted September 25, 2011 Yeah so far everyones said bolt ons.. Just wanting a few more options or ideas before anything is definite.. Quote
shLONG13 Posted September 25, 2011 Report Posted September 25, 2011 I would get someone to flair the metal body guards man, don't put those bolt on things on. If done right it would look way better :D Quote
kickn5k Posted September 26, 2011 Report Posted September 26, 2011 As per those 50 picture messages I sent you.lol. IF I were doing flares I'd do something like the escort rs1600(BDA) mk1. But tailor it more to suit the corollas shape. Would look fat. I haven't seen it done on an early rolla yet other than the typical flare job usually seen on ksevs. It will also take a fair amount of work and fill metal to make it work. When I get to my laptop I'll try and dig up a pic. Bolt ons do look good, we all know because we've seen it before. If you think this is something you could do then go for it and be different. Stu. 1 Quote
Jono.C Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Posted September 26, 2011 Haha yeah dude got another this morning haha. Think your phone is a legal retard :lolcry: Yeah that Esky is pretty tough with those flares.. I assume you'd mount the bolt ons and fibreglass as much of the gap as possible and finish off with body filler to smooth it into one piece.. Yeah it'd be sweet it you could grab a pic or 2.. Still undecided and scouting books and the net and stuff for ideas.. Quote
kickn5k Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 Haha yeah dude got another this morning haha. Think your phone is a legal retard :lolcry: Yeah that Esky is pretty tough with those flares.. I assume you'd mount the bolt ons and fibreglass as much of the gap as possible and finish off with body filler to smooth it into one piece.. Yeah it'd be sweet it you could grab a pic or 2.. Still undecided and scouting books and the net and stuff for ideas.. Yep it officially has a mental issue. That's about 8-9 now? Sorry!! Those eski flares are original on those rs1600. All steel too. I went to school with a guy who has done two replicas(first one stolen and burnt). The first one had fiberglass copies grafted in and the second one he used steel to do it(cut insert etc) he is a panel beating guru!!! Come to think about it, I'm pretty sure he works in Tassie now. I'll give him a call and see if he has moved down or still comes back on weekends. Would give you a better idea to see it in person and he'd probably be keen to give you some pointers too. Stu. Quote
Jordain Posted September 27, 2011 Report Posted September 27, 2011 Metal flares all the way.. bolt ons won't really suit it in my opinion.. although if you going for the full jap spec go te27 bolt ons, te27 front lip and ta22 fender mirrors... but paint it a decent colour not that green.. If you going for the dirty look, then hand roll from metal flares or use KE70 guards or anything with a nice shaped guard.. My opinion is rolled ke70 guards welded to the car and it painted that green on steelies. :yes: Quote
Jono.C Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Posted September 30, 2011 I tracked down a photo of a ke10 with bolt on flares. In tassie as well! To be honest it's kind of put me off the idea.. So i'm thinking nice wide flared steel guards are the go, and just hope they can do them without warping my front guards.. Got a few more photo's of stuff i'll upload at some point. Also changing tire size from 165/70 and 175/70 down to 175/50's for a bit more lowerage and less of a donut looking tire. Quote
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