springersrolla Posted February 24, 2011 Report Posted February 24, 2011 gday gday. ok so here it is. i have a ke35 with a fresh bottom ended 5k. up top ive bought a worked and flowed double valved spring 5khead running approx 150cfm. i need to determine a cam, and in theory need to determine valve springs to suit the cam. i am in the process of checking spring pressure, bind and closing load. but as it stands. DO I???? choose solids or hydraulic lifters.? Tighe has told me to straight swap my 5k valve train for 4k solids. everything is a straight swap. lifters, rods, cam and rockers. how true is this and is so, what is my benefit? i am close to purchasing a single 42DCOE weber and am wondering if I'm going to lose power and will it be a worthwhile swap ideally i am looking for a motor happy to sing to 7 occasional 8thou rpm, lightened flywheel, freeflowing extractors, 2" open exhaust i just need to decide cam, induction and lifter spec. i will be getting the dizzy recurved to suit the cam. the head has been skimmed 30thou, and i have no idea of compression ratio until i cc the slugs in the motor. any help would be fantastic. i can only take so much info from cam grinders/engine rebuilders until i get real corolla driver info cheers adam Quote
towe001 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Posted February 24, 2011 Have you had a search on the topic ? Cause it has been covered in one way or another. There's a couple of people on here that have kept the hydro's and yet still have a nice rev band while others have swapped over to the solids. The benefit of going solids is that the hydro's can have the possibility of pumping up at high rpm and not letting the valves close and yadda yadda. The benefit of hydro's is that of one less maintenance thing and times quiet. In the FAQ there's a short write-up of the how to http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K_Hydraulic_To_Solid_Lifter_Conversion and it has a link to Club-K over in NZed http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=14957#pid105004 And looking at that, and here on the forum, i'd really doubt its a straight swap possibly close but not a straight swap. If it was me, i'd sooner keep the hydro's just cause its one less maintenance issue i'd have to worry about. I'm at that age i just want to walk out to the car jump in and go without the need of reading a book while the motor warms up and yadda yadda. Quote
coln72 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 If you want to convert to solids then go for it, but in my opinion and experience it will be a WOFTM. My club car ran a 5k with the usual stuff done and would regulary run 7500rpm plus. This was on the standard lifters and springs. You may be unlucky and get into coil bind with your cam when you select one and will need those fancy dual springs, but extra stiffness will cost you power due to greater friction. Quote
springersrolla Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Posted February 25, 2011 yeh cheers for the advice, ive read everything 10times on here, but its better to get real advice from real rolla drivers with what setups they ran. I'm heavily persuaded to the hydraulics as they are already there, and i don't have to adjust them as soon as i hear a rattle. i like the fact that its a quieter k motor than solids also. coln72 what sized cam were you running?, i have to check the springs i have for tension but id like to just work out a nice cam, bolt the head on throw a weber on and then down the track look for more power thru twins Quote
coln72 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 From memory, it was a Wade 169 grind. can't give you the specs anymore as I lost the timing sheet but they would of been posted on here in the past. It was a reasonable cam, no waiting for it to come on but with the ability to rev out. Could of gone bigger but then it would not of suited the type of motorsports I was doing where I needed instant response.Found specs from Wade's site lobe lift In .269 Ex .268 timing ad open/close In 41-70 Ex 75-36 duration @ 0.050 218 valve lift .395 lobe separation 109 Quote
GJM85 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 unfortunately 4k lifters do not fit into a 5k block...... Quote
Evan G Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 is it possible to do a 4k hydo conversion? sick of the lifter noise... Quote
Crostek Posted March 2, 2011 Report Posted March 2, 2011 is it possible to do a 4k hydo conversion? sick of the lifter noise... If you machined out the lifter holes to suit the bigger lifter it mite work??? :hmm: You would also need the rockers and push rods for the oil feed to the lifter through them Quote
kickn5k Posted March 2, 2011 Report Posted March 2, 2011 is it possible to do a 4k hydo conversion? sick of the lifter noise... Thought you had a 5k Evan. Yeah it would be more money to bore the block for the hydro lifters than it would be to buy a minter 5k but I'd belive it's posible. Oh yeah back to topic. Colin72 is right the hydro lifters can be pushed hard and I would have kept mine but had no choice as I'm using the large chamber 4k head and my pushrods were too short. On the induction front I've used su's on mine and in my opinion sound as good but different than the dcoe type carbs. Su manifolds are hard to find and the jap su copies are garbage. DCOE type carbs(weber, dellorto and solex) are all good things but can be expensive to setup. But if your asking about induction on a k motor I'm fairly biased for me it's all about boost!!! Stu. Quote
Evan G Posted March 2, 2011 Report Posted March 2, 2011 had a blown hg $100 5k for a while till the 4k was getting re checked. this thing was DEAD silent! sounds like too much effort since the motor isnt apart Quote
springersrolla Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Posted March 2, 2011 i'd love boost, but the head was built soley na and if running 7cc pistons ill have something like 11.5:1 compression! i have to pull my finger out and get the valve springs sussed so i can decide what cam. once ive got the cam spec sorted i'l have to really pull my finger out, get rwc, rego, pull the motor out, sus the dish on the pistons and start spending some hard earned, its difficult at the moment so comeon everyone buy my shit!!! i need to know if the 4k motors ran a sandwich style intake/exhaust manifold setup and if it ran a straight 4-1 exhaust manifold with the 3 bolt triangle styled exhaust pipe. i bought a 5k in a ke70 and the original exhaust cleared easy for the rack and pinion. on the ke35 it rubs on the idler arm so I'm thinking of a clean cut and welding some flex pipe to the original exhaust so i can get the damn thing rego'd. then I'm off to get new extractors, cam, elect dizzy recurved and sort out intake. i have a nikki setup perfect and ready on ke30 pre polution manifold, but i'd at least like a 32/36. i wanna make it to jap show and shine in july but need to flare my guards and quick paint job. might roll there in matte black before sorting out the body;) see how she goes Quote
Evan G Posted March 2, 2011 Report Posted March 2, 2011 i had the same problem on my 55 with the idler arm touching the exhaust, get the grinder in there and cut a little tab off Quote
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