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Posted

Hey guys, I have been trying to fix this and suss it out myself but I have no idea on what it is at all and it is starting to bug me :bash:

 

The issue is, when i turn my car of I seem to be getting engine run on for about 10 seconds. The other thing is the car stalls constantly and I can't get it to idle.

 

One thing I havent checked is timing, is this something that could cause these soughts of issues

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Posted

just start with a basic service, timing, points, spark plugs, fuel filter. don't buy anything untill you have inspected them and made sure they are the problem.

 

running on can also be caused by hot spots in the engine, you can steam clean the inside of your engine and try and get rid of any built up carbon, by spraying a fine mist of water into your carby while it is running. be very careful as if you spray to much you will in fact fill your engine up with water and destroy it.

Posted

oh the last thing I want to do it kill my engine haha!

 

Well it has now sparkplugs and so on, hmmmmmm I have a feeling my timing could be out, too far advanced, I might back this off and go from there, see if this fixes the issue.

 

What should the timing be set at on a 4k with twin dcoe webbers?

Posted

start at the standard 8 BTDC, increase it slightly if you run 98 octane.

 

in fact advance it a little bit, take it to a big hill, load it up in 3rd gear, and see if it pings. if it does, back it off untill it doesnt!

Posted

By the sounds of it it could be a couple of things that are wrong.

Because of the age of our motors getting the engine to run on factory specs can be quite tricky.

But it can be set up pretty damn close!

 

Things to check first!!

 

Are all the vac hoses connected, not leaking?

Any leaks at the carby mount?

 

A timing light is a must have inexpensive item and they only cost around the $60 mark for something decent.

If you don't have one you get one!

I use the one that has an inductive pickup clamp (ease of use) that goes over cylinder No.1.

 

If I have just pulled apart my motor and put it back together this is the way I get it back into spec.

Firstly get the motor running and get it to stay on idle, doesn't matter if it is on fast idle.

(in your case this might be some what of a challenge). Now if this is a timing issue then the next bit should fix the idle issue.

(if you don't have a timing light) Loosen the screw on the distributor and turn it in any direction by a couple of degrees (nothing dramatic), start the car.

Does it run worse or better?? If worse then turn it in the opposite direction untill you can get the car to constantly idle.

This is where a timing light comes in handy! I have found that at 800 - 900rpm 10deg runs quite good.

 

Now I wouldn't know about tuning the webbers but this is how I do it with the Aisan carby and would somewhat be applicable to the webbers.

If the car will still not idle, turn the throttle screw in and see if it will idle under throttle. If it does idle under throttle then it could be

that the idle circuit is not getting enough fuel, turn the miture screw a couple of turns counter clockwise. Then start unscrewing the throttle screw

untill the motor starts to idle rough and then back it off till it runs smooth. If the idle is still too fast then the idle circuit in the carby is in fact, f@$ked.

Posted

Thanks heaps twinky lots of useful information there, as soon as i get home from work I will give all of this a crack and see if i can get it running better, these issues only started when my dad decided he could try and tune everything for me and made everythin bloody worse!!! He meant well, but has buggered everything up!

Posted

Actually you wouldn't know what size those webbers are? Do you have any engine mods apart from that?

Do you have information on jet sizes, venturi sizes? Was it running good before or has this only just happened?

If your engine is bog stock those webbers might flow a little too mutch for the engine. In which case the motor would be

running too rich at idle and hence not want to idle properly. Most people find it difficult just to tune the 32/36 DGV

because the carb was designed for 100hp and up motors. The 4k falls quite short of that mark and you have twin webers instead of the troublesome 32/36. In saying that I have seen

the twin dcoe webers on a 4k run quite well but still quite boggy down low.

 

This is not quite the case for every weber setup but it does seem to be a common problem of webbers not idling right with the stock 4k.

Posted (edited)

Actually you wouldn't know what size those webbers are? Do you have any engine mods apart from that?

Do you have information on jet sizes, venturi sizes? Was it running good before or has this only just happened?

If your engine is bog stock those webbers might flow a little too mutch for the engine. In which case the motor would be

running too rich at idle and hence not want to idle properly. Most people find it difficult just to tune the 32/36 DGV

because the carb was designed for 100hp and up motors. The 4k falls quite short of that mark and you have twin webers instead of the troublesome 32/36. In saying that I have seen

the twin dcoe webers on a 4k run quite well but still quite boggy down low.

 

This is not quite the case for every weber setup but it does seem to be a common problem of webbers not idling right with the stock 4k.

 

Yea well I was running a 5k initially but the thing decided to go BOOM and no way of it being brought back to life :lolcry:

 

However i had a leak in the exhaust manifold. I pulled all this apart last night, looked around in my dads shed and found a gasket as he has heaps of stuff from when he had is ke55. I also backed off the timing which for some rediculous reason was sitting at 15 deg :blinks: put this back to 10 degs.

 

Gave her a quick bit of a tune, now she idles like she has a lumpy cam :cool: and it sounds tough at idle now. Aside from all of this she is idling beautifully now :D I have in a way realised that twin webbers on a 4k seems to be a little too much, however my dad has a 3k head sitting in the shed, which has been worked, Would this help with performance and assist the webbers?

 

in the near future I will be looking at buying a 4agze to start rebuilding, but for now I would love to the 4k running better or maybe even find a 5k again and going down the road of getting it installed and running, but thats more money I could be spending on a 4agze conversion :yes:

 

But I have no idea or information on the jets, the guy who I bought it off also had no idea, as he focused on the body and the guy before him did all the engine and brake mods etc.

 

The main thing is that I am now idling fine and engine run on doesnt seem to be happening anymore either :D

Edited by jaygore
Posted

Yea it had one of those crappy 2 piece manifolds in it... what a heap of junk those things are! Now i have a one piece and IMO much better quality!

Posted

If it does run well we would like to know what venturis are in there and what jets you are using.

 

Somewhere along the way we will get a library of carb jetting set up so people can buy carbs off other cars and easily jet them to 4Ks.

Posted

If it does run well we would like to know what venturis are in there and what jets you are using.

 

Somewhere along the way we will get a library of carb jetting set up so people can buy carbs off other cars and easily jet them to 4Ks.

 

Yea for sure, what I will be doing in the coming weeks is taking it to get tuned and I will get them to tell me exactly what is in there. So that this can be used to help others.

 

Also once my conversion starts this setup will be up for sale =]

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