Mat10e Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 I have an ae71 which has ae86 struts in it but i am still running the ae71 lca just wanting to no what will bolt straight in an give me the most camber without camber tops Cheers Quote
Grand Master of Awesome Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 how much camber do you want? "the most" isnt normally ideal.. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) The accepted norm is XT130 Corona. They give, dependant on ride height (edit: and how bent your chassis is), -0.7 to -1.6 Camber. You will find in practicality, one side will be different to the other if you do not have adjustable tops to equalise it. My red car was close to straight but my current white ae71 has about .4 degree difference in the adjustment needed to correct it. If you use Sigma LCA instead, you get more camber, in the order of 3 degrees, but in most peoples opinion I've spoken to, and my own, they give too much camber for the street, I believe you are better off using a combination of corona lca and camber tops to achieve -2 to -2.5 or so (for a lowered car). There is such a thing as too wide when you consider the relationship between wheelbase and track width, IMO. Edited February 14, 2011 by LittleRedSpirit Quote
ke70dave Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/31272-ke55-need-more-camber/ according to that thread, xt130 and ke55 LCA;s are the same length. and ke55 LCA's arent saught after...and thus will be cheap! Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 Jump it, land hard LOL! Done that! Has anyone looked into tyre wear and camber ratios?? You will need to run more toe-in to stop the inside edges blowing away, so although that helps to equalise the tyre wear across the tread they still wear faster for every degree of camber added. ...and if you're looking for front grip you will be running very expensive tyres... Quote
ke70dave Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) Has anyone looked into tyre wear and camber ratios?? i havent seen it in here much. i had -2.5 on the front of my ke for a while, ate the tyres good and proper on the inside compared to the outside, even with relatively enthusiastically driving. i don't drive like a hoon everywhere, but i like to load the tyres up aroand corners. i did drive on straight 80km/h sections alot though (to and front work) thats prolly what killed them. only reason i was on -2.5 is cause i had that s13 gear on there, and needed the excessive camber to make the tyres/wheels fit in the guards........ swapped to ae86 gear and ive been on -1 for a while now, and bought some brand new tyres a few months ago (595 rs-r's, which i expected to wear quite quickly), havnet really seen any adverse tyre wear and i drive on the highway a fair bit to get to work now, seems to be ok. only real way to tell is to get out the infrared temp guage and test the temps of the inside vs the outside. Edited February 14, 2011 by ke70dave Quote
Mat10e Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 Cheers for all that info Does anyone no if s13 lca will bolt onto the ae71 as my mate has them layin around Cheers Quote
ke70dave Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 who knows, give them a go? they will almost definately be far to long, its like +30mm each side. just get the ke55 ones. you need anymore than -1 camber or so. anything more on the street will most likely be detromental to grip. interestingly my s15 (and problably lots of newish "sports" cars) standard is -1 deg camber on all 4 corners. Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 interestingly my s15 (and problably lots of newish "sports" cars) standard is -1 deg camber on all 4 corners I run the Altezza at that. Plenty of young guys are hanging their wheels out at -2.5deg, but plenty of young guys are also suddenly finding the inner treads are through to the canvas and the tyres are only three months old!! I think the IS200 chassis is prone to inner tread wear if the wheel alignment guy uses the toe-out side of the specs. The KE70 seems really light on tyres, the Corona LCAs give it basically zero camber on slightly lowered springs. -13minutes and -18minutes, with 1.2mm toein. I am forever amazed at how little a lot of techs know about cars at all, yet here they are doing wheel alignments that affect tyre wear and handling every day... "if its got a green tick that will do- get me the next car.." I always find a guy who does racing cars. Quote
ke70dave Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 I am forever amazed at how little a lot of techs know about cars at all, yet here they are doing wheel alignments that affect tyre wear and handling every day... "if its got a green tick that will do- get me the next car.." I always find a guy who does racing cars. hehe funny story. i took my ke70 into the local beaurepair for a wheel alignment. (its got camber tops, as well as castor/toe adjustment obviosly) which i told him before he started. it was a saturday, so he was in a rush, but i did book it in etc, he got the young guy on the job, nice guy. got the car up on the hoist. starts doing the toe........i ask why hasnt he done the camber or castor first? my understanding is toe should be the last thing to adjust. (but I'm no wheel aligner, so i didnt come across as a douche, just asked with curiousity) he is adament that you cannot adjust the castor and camber on my car...he goes and gets the boss man, both the young guy and the owner (i assume owner, boss man, head guy etc) were adamant that castor and camber werent adjustable.....i explained it to them under the car, and explained how camber tops worked..showed them the castor adjustment and how that is done...turned out "sorry we don't have time for that many adjustments, you will have to come back next week"...... LAME!! i mentioned the word "pan hard rod adjustment"...and i got such a blank look...i didnt even want to enter that conversation....i just said...thanks for your help guys ill give you call next week.... went down to tyre zone on the monday, with a list of specs (toe, camber, castor), 2hrs later picked it up, had a print out of the before and after settings and everyting. best part was it was cheaper than what beaurepairs wanted!!! like you say altezza, these guys are in control of the way your car handles, essentially your life (and others) is in their hands, and they are incompetant!! as for the s15, I'm a little skeptical of any camber on the rear, as that will obviosly have a big effect on straight line grip, and with the s15 with 200odd HP at those rear wheels, need all the grip i can get. but i guess the guys at nissan knew what they are doing. funny thing is when guys lower IRS nissans (especially S series chassis) and don't correct the rear camber, end up running -3-4 deg to get their huge wheels in the guards, must be bugger all grip back there in a straight line. but this is getting a little off topic....since this is about corollas, and hektic camberz. Quote
altezzaclub Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 err.. well, yes it is OT, but its all good education! All the IRS cars squat under acceleration, so your -3deg on the rear becomes -somethingodawful deg when you nail it and you're running on the very last inside tread with full power.... ..and they probably don't get enough bodyroll to put a -3deg tyre flat on the ground! There's a lot to be said for a live rear axle, its just that great weight banging up and down in the back and jumping off the road! Sorry Mat10e... carry on... Quote
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