gmack Posted February 6, 2011 Report Posted February 6, 2011 Hey peeps, I recently bought a nice AE71 high top wagon. I've owned a couple of RWD KE/AEs before but never a wagon. I know that the wagon rear end differs from the sedan quite a bit, with leafs, a different tailshaft and different diff set-up. What I'd like to know is how to lower the rear end properly, it's going to be a daily drifter so I'm guessing I'll need some tramp rods and a panhard? I want the arse end to be as low and as stiff as possible. Any info would be great. Quote
gmack Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Posted February 6, 2011 Also, What is the greatest width wheels I can run on the front and back with flared stock guards? What offset is ideal? I'd like to run 8" wide or wider, I know that's a big ask on a 71 haha. Quote
Jono.C Posted February 6, 2011 Report Posted February 6, 2011 To lower it properly you could get the leafs reset. Or be dodgy and use blocks. Not sure about wagons but a bloke in hobart down here was running 15x10 -26 challengers under the back of his ke70 with flared guards and stretched tires :D Quote
gmack Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Resetting the leafs is fine. But is there a common way to reduce axle tramp in these things (other than bushes etc)? What (if any) short stroke shocks will fit? Do the T50 diff centers from 71s, 86s etc fit the wagon diffs? Edited February 6, 2011 by gmack Quote
LukeAE71 Posted February 6, 2011 Report Posted February 6, 2011 You will need to check the axle code which is on the VIN plate. AE71 vans had S series diffs which were same as local Sprinters (AE86) AE71 wagons however may have same as local AE71 sedan, you will know once you check the plate. You can get tramp rods which stop the tramp, called Caltracs but they are not cheap. How much power we talking??? I have a 4AGE in my AE71 van and it doesn't tramp Quote
gmack Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the info Luke, I'll check out the VIN plate and diff. We're not talking much power atm, it will have it's stock 4AC for a while (with a few minor cheapo mods). After that it will be getting a spare RX4 N/A Carbie 13B @ around 150kW. Does anyone have the specs and measurements of the Caltracs tramp rods? It might be cheaper for me to make them rather than buy them. Edited February 6, 2011 by gmack Quote
gmack Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) Also... I really need to hook up a hydro handbrake. I haven't tried to do this with drum brakes before, any tips? I haven't had a close look yet, are the rear drums hyrdo or power assisted cable? Do you have any suggestions on keeping the drums effective under heavy braking (other than drilling venting etc)? Edited February 6, 2011 by gmack Quote
Sam_Q Posted February 7, 2011 Report Posted February 7, 2011 making your own tramp rods isn't hard, just a little time consuming. Only a pannelvan diff will bolt in and that isn't an upgrade. Other a diff conversion is the go, easy as on what you have Quote
gmack Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Posted February 7, 2011 I'm assuming the run of the mill hilux rear end is still doable in a wagon? Quote
Grand Master of Awesome Posted February 8, 2011 Report Posted February 8, 2011 for wheel size, 14x8 with around 0 offset sit nicely, well they did on my panelvan. but really depends if you want to do some guard work, don't see the need for anything large than an 8.5. Diff: ae71 wagons are borg warner diff. panelvans are s series. hilux leaf mounts are different to wagon leaf mounts according to e7van (you know, the guy with brown panelvan) so either way you're going to have to get mounts welded onto whatever diff you choose. As well as custom tailshaft. as for shocks wagon/panelvan shocks are shorter than sedan so you can get away with running suzuki sierra shocks, which are small and stiff good for skidz etc. its always a good idea to re-do bushes in any older car you buy. With lowering your leafs, smart thing would be to get it reset and an extra leaf added for stiffness. or if you want to do it on the dodgey flip leafs and put landcruiser leaf in for stiff. Quote
gmack Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks Destroyer, seriously helpful. :-) Are the 71 wagon B/Ws the same as the keto B/Ws as far as diff centers are concerned? Bit annoyed that I don't have an S or T series diff haha. Quote
gmack Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Posted February 16, 2011 Got the 71 running nicely. One major concern I have though is that it has a super stiff brake pedal. Any common reasons for this in a 71? The brakes work quite well, but the pedal is way harder than my mate's 86 or my old KE70. Quote
KE30=LEGENDARY Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 ey, your vacuum booster's leaking, just like my leone :P Quote
woteva Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 (edited) Does anyone have the specs and measurements of the Caltracs tramp rods? It might be cheaper for me to make them rather than buy them. If you are thinking of making Caltracs this may be of some help: http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/traction1.html http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html W. Edited March 16, 2011 by woteva Quote
gmack Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 Hey Pazsa, it's been a while since I checked this forum, I've been giving some love to the RX7. Thanks for the tip. That's actually heaps of help woteva, I'll start a project thread as a bit of a tutorial when I start doing it. Quote
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