VL_TURBO Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 ive seen heaps of threads on this but never on how to actually set one up. For example. Where do you run the oil lines How do you control boost What runs to where? any help, photo's or step by step guide is great, thanks! Quote
B.L.Z.BUB Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 CLICK HERE Start there, follow links. I just googled how to turbo a 4k. Realise its not worth it, then ask about 4AGE. Quote
VL_TURBO Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Posted January 19, 2011 i'm looking for mainly a step by step or what to run where. Pictures would be great Quote
philbey Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) Hi there mate you're not going to get a step by step guide to turboing the 4K unfortunately. The best you can do is look over this thread there's plenty of pictures and although it's 52 pages long, you will get plenty of ideas how to do it. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/ Oil lines, you can at least run a return back to the sump. As for the supply, I'm not sure how others have done it. Boost is controlled by the wastegate on the turbo. Edited January 19, 2011 by philbey Quote
ijg033 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) For the Oil feed you fit a adapter T piece to the Oil Light Switch then run the Line of it , I'm looking at turboing my 4k in the future & I'll be making custom manifolds as I want somehow to try & retain the original look to somewhat & as space on the LH side is tight I'll see what I can come up with , I'm actually contemplating running it with LPG injection setup but I think a carby will be used , AS for the 4A-GE conversion I've had done one of those before & I think value for money you can't beat a 5K as its cheap & they go well compared to the costs of the 4A-GE conversion , I have had/done both now looking at Turbo 4K Cheers Dave Edited January 19, 2011 by ijg033 Quote
ke70dave Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) the funny thing about engines...is they are all the same! oil feed: as previously mentinoed, take a tap out of the oil pressure switch. pending what turbo you use, you may need a restrictor or some description. check with you turbo as to what pressure it can handle, then check what oil pressure a K motor runs at. for the oil feed you probably want to get a braided line, go to your local hydraulics shop with your oil pressure switch, and your turbo, tell them what you are doing, and they will sort out the rest. oil return: take your sump to any decent fabricator, and get a line brazed into the sump. you want the oil drain to be exactly that a drain, directly down out of the turbo straight into the sump, no bends. then to join them up, go to your local diesel spares get some silicon hose (this stuff is wicked) its not cheap though. but its the best. get a few good clamps and your done. water feed/return: not entirely sure where you would get this from on a K motor, ive not had a K motor for yrs so can't even go and look. maybe try and get a turbo that doesnt require water;) as mentined boost is controlled via wastgates, you can buy replacement (different "boost" pressures) wastegates for "most" turbos from aptuning.net (I'm in the process of buying one for the s15 atm). or you can just use one of those boost "t" things, but they tend to add dramas such as boost spikes etc. the rest comes down to if you choose EFI or carby, id go with EFI, but that adds electronics and tuning to the equation (both of which you don't want to pay someone to do it, as it will cost a fortune, and defeats the purpose of turbo K being cheap). alot of guys go carby for simplicity and have success. once you decide what your doing re efi/carby, an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor is something you want, along with an appropriate fuel system. there is no step by step guide, its all custom made, so you need to understand everything. especially when you are on the side of the road at 11pm at night with your girlfriend in the car, in winter. your going to want to know how to fix it;) Edited January 19, 2011 by ke70dave Quote
Taz_Rx Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 LOL, thats why you also teach your GF how to fix it too!!!! :lolcry: She doesn't even bother calling me now if she needs to give a starter motor a 'technical tap' now. Water lines are actually pretty easy Dave, you just plumb the turbo in line with the heater core. Mines just after the heater, but I suppose there's no reason why you couldn't put it in before for a super hot heater! :laff: Quote
ke70dave Posted January 19, 2011 Report Posted January 19, 2011 ahh i figure the water lines would be with the heater core. makes sense. i assume you mean parellel with the heater core. though you probably coudlnt put it in before, as my understanding is when the heater tap is closed the water in the heater lines isnt flowing? Quote
Taz_Rx Posted January 20, 2011 Report Posted January 20, 2011 No in series not parallel. The heater tap is easily deactivated so it always flows. Quote
SLO-030 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Posted January 26, 2011 as my understanding is when the heater tap is closed the water in the heater lines isnt flowing? Si's in Tassie, Heaters always going :P Quote
altezzaclub Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 Do you think its worth running an intercooler? If you're just going for 7lb boost or similar you could have a very small neat suck-through setup straight into the inlet manifold. ..and do turbos HAVE to be mounted with their axle horizontal? I would've thought those axle seals would work in any orientation. I can picture a great vertical axle setup with the exhaust wheel under the compression wheel, just as the 4K is made. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 Si's in Tassie, Heaters always going :P Lol, not quite. Do you think its worth running an intercooler? If you're just going for 7lb boost or similar you could have a very small neat suck-through setup straight into the inlet manifold. ..and do turbos HAVE to be mounted with their axle horizontal? I would've thought those axle seals would work in any orientation. I can picture a great vertical axle setup with the exhaust wheel under the compression wheel, just as the 4K is made. Intercollers are in no way mandatory. But by reducing the inlet temp you can then add back in some timing, which will make some difference. The bearings aren't the issue with the turbo orientation, as yes they would work if verticle, the problem is oil draining out of the turbo. If you restrict the oil fow out of the turbo it can back up and stuff the oil seals. Quote
altezzaclub Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 Ah true- the oil exit is in the middle at the bottom... a vertical axis would need it coming in at the top and out at the bottom, which would be in on the 'left-hand' side ond out on the 'right'. Quote
altezzaclub Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) hmm... the water-cooled ones have the water down at the exhaust end, so the oil exit has to be half-way up. So long as the seal doesn't let oil drain past itself into the exhaust side its OK. That should work as it must be designed to handle 70psi in the whole oil chamber. It strikes me as very simple to hook an exhaust manifold into the exhaust side, straight down into the usual down-pipe and put a Weber on top. Edited January 27, 2011 by altezzaclub Quote
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