shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Report Posted December 3, 2010 Ive been on rollaclub for a wile and thought id better post up some decent info about what ive done and how i did it so here goes Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 This is my corolla when when i first got it. it has (at this stage) standard 4k engine standard 3 speed auto original everything else even a 8 track cassett player i added the jellybean rims the day after i brought it Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) PANEL the first thing repaired were the rust in the guards, dint in rear passanger side quater, other small dints, the hole in the back corner quarter and the damage down the passander side from some one in a wollongong carpark. red indicates drivers side yellow indicates passanger side Edited December 3, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) PAINT after the dints were repaird (this took me about a month or so) I masked it up and primed it, I had axcess to the paint booth at the local tafe as i as doing and apprentiship in vehicle painting. It was then sanded, masked up and had the first coat of base coat applyed followed with a coat of prizmatiqe pigment then coated with clear coat this is what the prizmatique looks like after un masking and put outside Edited December 9, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) Wheels and Tyres: Advanti 17in Flash 2 rims painted centres fitted with Maxxis 215/40 Z R17. To do this was simple. I just mask up the areas I didn't want to sand then I sanded the bits I do. I used a 240 wet and dry, unmasked them it and cleaned them, masked up the bits I didn't sand. I wax and greased (prepsole) the rim centres then primed (2 pack primer) the centre of the rim. I then sanded with 240 wet and dry, wax and greased, then painted in a gunmetal grey/black direct gloss Before painting (I have lost the original picture so here is one from the net ) After painting Full picture Edited December 8, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) interior I stuck with the original interior for a long time then when I decided to updated I approached Riverina Custom Auto Trim & Upholstery in Wagga Wagga. They made these sweet seats for me. I also at this time decided to get new carpet, new roof covering, and new vinyl on the doors and dash original dash (a little modified) after revinyling i also got new guages (more info in engin conversion part of this post (ill add a short cut here)) Edited December 19, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) Painting under Bonnet and Boot Sorry these are the only picks i have on this subject (poor quality). I striped out engine and stated sanding the area I wanted to paint. I used 240 foam backed paper. General rule of thumb is if its shiny the new paint wont stick. Mask up the area you don't want to paint. I used masking tape and a plastic cover sheet. Prime any rub threw as paint wont stick to steel. Then I painted the engine bay black I used a two pack direct gloss enamal approx 1Ltr. Finished outcome I removed The bonnet and boot. I sanded the original paint (240)and masked up the areas I didnt want painted I then primed the surface. Then sanded.(240) Then topcoated direct gloss black. Under The Boot lid Under The Bonnet Edited December 13, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) Engine Conversion SR20DE Conversion. This is my engine specifications. Standard SR20DE from Nissan Silvia S-13 Flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and gearbox from Nissan Serena Van.(a SR20 powered Van) Cortina engine mounts. Engine on engine lift. Engine going in. Engine in. I had modified the cross-member similar to this one. I then went about modifying the wiring loom. This is the diagram I used. This is where my wires go. Red Round Thing is fuel pump. This is a picture of the wiring. A small part up to 42+ wires. . I went about connecting everything up which was a massive undertaking this is what i had to do. Put a bigger pick up in the fuel tank. what you see here is the pick up with a pre filter on it. Run a bigger fuel line (stainless steel) Fit a fuel pump. Red round thing on picture and insert (Standard VL pump as this car is non turbo) Run a breather line from fuel tank to charcoal canister. Attach fuel line to motor. Attach return line to motor. ( this line is the original send line that went to the standard 4K motor) Modify and attach the throttle cable. NO PIC AT THE MOMENT Make and fit air filter box. (air box made out of high temp tolerant perspex by Rooney G Plastics Wagga) Order a 92 Nissan pulsar radiator with the inlet and outlets swapped I had make a lower radiator mount and had two top radiator mounts jet cut also found some thermo fans. Modify the front grill support. (drilled the four spot welds out and welded two nuts on then fitted it back on so it would be easer to remove in the future) THE SHINY BOLTS ON EACH SIDE (above the horns) Fit my gear shifter. This shifter is from a Nissan Serena Van I used cable linkages as this let me fit the shifter anywhere in the car I wanted. Instead of using the standard s-13 gearbox which would come up between the seats. I also did not have to modify the tunnel at all. IN THE VAN IN THE KE55 Get drive shaft manufactured. Connect up wiring loom. Get coolant to the original heater. (see two hoses that go up over the motor in front of the fire wall) Get exhaust constructed and fitted (3peice). joins at the catalitic converter and just before the tail shaft Fit KE 35 wiper washer bottle. (its a little smaller and lets me fit in the central locking and alarm modules between the bottle and the wiper motor) more info and picks will be added in time Edited June 4, 2011 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Posted December 3, 2010 (edited) SUSPENSION AND BRAKES With Bigger Power Comes Bigger Brakes i went searching and found these guys they are by far the BEST company I have ever ordered parts off! i had the kit in 2 weeks for ke55 strut assembly however i noticed this I had Diffrent struts than they expected so i sent it back and they manufactured a set to sute me. with longer studs and in four stud pattern. I asked for them to grease the bearings which they did at no extra cost.:dance: Before During After Edited December 18, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
Sloth Posted December 11, 2010 Report Posted December 11, 2010 Nice build! I like the uniqueness of the interior, great to have something a little different. How does the SR go in there? Quote
e3469 Posted December 12, 2010 Report Posted December 12, 2010 which disks are u using for ur ke35.....any alteration...???? Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Posted December 13, 2010 How does the SR go in there? trust me its a lot of work i will be posting more info up on it shortley. Quote
JJT036 Posted December 13, 2010 Report Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) How'd ya manage to drop a Big Motor like the SR20DE into your Ke55 without Removing the Grille, Front Bumper, Beaver Panel, Radiator, and the Radiator Support Panel? :hmm: Must have been a Tight Job. Very well done from what I saw in the Pics man. Josh :cool: Edited December 13, 2010 by ewt Quote
shaded_shadows_KE55 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Report Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) which disks are u using for ur ke35.....any alteration...???? they are simmalar to a brake kit for a AU Falcon. I payed $1400 for the adaption kit that bolts on to the original strut tower. updated Post above Edited December 18, 2010 by shaded_shadows_KE55 Quote
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