4Kc Auto To Manual Swap????

[JDM55]

hi probably a realy stupid question but urgently need an answer, i have a ke70 with a 4kc auto and i want to swap it into a ke55 that also has a 4kc but manual , I'm i right in asuming that i should be able to bolt the manual fly wheel to the auto engine and use the manual gear box??

 

please help as I'm in the middle of pulling it all apart,thanks guys ,

[altezzaclub]

yes, but you will need to buy a spigot bearing to hold the nose of the gearbox shaft in the end of the crankshaft.

[e70van]

Yep, it should all fit fine. just double check the backing plates (plate behind the flywheel usually held on with two 10mm bolts)arent different.you might need to swap them. also check both motors have spigot bearings. (bearing pressed into rear of crankshaft) not 100% if autos do, but they should have!

 

edit: damn altezza beat me to it! hehe

Edited November 3, 2010 by e70van

[JDM55]

Yep, it should all fit fine. just double check the backing plates (plate behind the flywheel usually held on with two 10mm bolts)arent different.you might need to swap them. also check both motors have spigot bearings. (bearing pressed into rear of crankshaft) not 100% if autos do, but they should have!

 

edit: damn altezza beat me to it! hehe

 

 

awesum thanks guys, just pulled the 4k from a ke70 its out and i was eying up the difernces between the 55 and the 70 blocks, as far as i can see its the same block with a few different bolt on parts,ill get a better look tomorrow when i get the engine out of the 55 , cheers

Edited November 3, 2010 by JDM55

[morgzz]

make sure you take the spacer plate off from the crack shaft from the auto, otherwise your mannual flywheel will hit the bell housing and wont spin.. i lernt the hard way

[JDM55]

make sure you take the spacer plate off from the crack shaft from the auto, otherwise your mannual flywheel will hit the bell housing and wont spin.. i lernt the hard way

 

 

cool thanks for the tip mate, be looking at doing this friday or sat so any tips be helpful cheers

[SLW42]

make sure you don't do it on the ground it's f@$ked trust me, and k40/50's get heavy when it's only you doing it ;)

 

It should be fine all you'll need is all the manual gear i.e clutch, flywheel, spigot bearing, blah blah blah, and it'll go straight in

[Evan G]

pussy!^^^ i lifted the k50 straight in my ke55 and also lifted the engine complete with acc in my boot (I'm not a huge c**t either!)

[altezzaclub]

Actually they're both quite small & light compared to the auto!!

 

 

JDM it will put auto fluid all over the floor! Don't forget the radiator pipes full of oil too!

[SLW42]

evan suuuuuuuuckadick hahaha i know there not heavy, but when the car is only high enough to fit you and the box under it it tends to get heavy, and what makes things worse is when the box doesn't go into the clutch properly the 1st time

[Evan G]

i used a dummy shaft from a old box so it was lined up perfect. slid under the car with the box on my chest/gut. pushed the box down to my knees then lifted it with my knees and arms.

 

then when you get it in and realised you just could of lifted up on the trolly jack and pushed it in LMAO! :lol:

[JDM55]

well got the 4k out of the rolla, and now have the 2 engines sitting beside each other so could get a better look at whats going on

 

still not convinced this will work hahaha, i guess just have to take you guys word for it ,

 

so first thing , there was no spigot bearing in the auto crank, as advised,

 

next thing i found the water pump was completely stuft , so removed the water pump from the manual,

put them side by side and they look the same how ever the auto pump flange where the pulley bolts to,is alot thicker ,

and sits alot higher than the manual pump,probably about 4-6mm hopefuly i can just space the pulley out abit to match the main cranks pulley................

 

which brings us to the next difference the crank pulley on the auto is a lot larger than the manual?????

 

also the fuel pump has a fuel return port and the manual one has only the one in port for fuel,

wonder if i can block off the return port with a bolt or plug or sumthing or should i just swap the pumps over?????

 

next thing ,the autos exhuast manifold sitts at a differnt angle to the manual one , so ive removed the manifold from both

,

they both seem to have the same ports and bolt up the same tho so bonus,

 

removed the torque convertor thing and the plate that was bolted to and checked the manual backing plate fitts perfect,

 

what else,,,, aw the thermostate housing , one the manual it has 2 probes and wires off it where the auto has one and a bunch of vacumm lines going into a freaky looking thingo, so yanked that off and will swap that over too,

 

the clutch was still pretty good so thats good, but ill need a tool to realign, it does autocheap or bursons sell anything like that????

 

also can that spigot bearing be removed??? i tryed to try it out but its tight as,

 

going to have a play tomorrow night after work and see if i can make it in to one engine rather than 2 ,ill keep you guys up to date with how things go

[altezzaclub]

I think a lot of those differences are between years, that one engine much younger than the other.

 

Get a spigot bearing, they're under $10.

 

You can align the clutch on the spigot by eye, especially if you have the motor out and it is easy to try the gearbox on & off before you tighten the pressure plate right up.

 

Don't worry, it works easily and the car is sooo much better to drive!

[JDM55]

I think a lot of those differences are between years, that one engine much younger than the other.

 

Get a spigot bearing, they're under $10.

 

You can align the clutch on the spigot by eye, especially if you have the motor out and it is easy to try the gearbox on & off before you tighten the pressure plate right up.

 

Don't worry, it works easily and the car is sooo much better to drive!

 

 

 

 

ALL DONE!!!!!! GREAT SUCCESSE!!!!

 

thanks guys for responding,

managed to finished off today , pretty much changed over the manifold, and water pump,

put a new spigot bearing in,easy as

used the auto fuel pump and just blocked up the return line,

changed over the thermostate housing,

bolted the fly wheel on ,made a dodgey clutch alignment tool , got the 5 speed bolted up etc etc etc etc

started after a few seconds,idles well, can't see any leaks so looks all good,

 

runs realy well took it for a cain up the road seems to be good, alitlte slipping on the clutch,but not huge,

 

no more huge back fires and starts first click of the key, no more stalling every 2 seconds,revss out nice and smooth,

so pretty happy to pull that all off after that big effort ;)

 

cheers guys