How Can I Build A 7K That Revs Hard?

[forpinks]

Hi, I'm Clyde, 20, from the Philippines. First of all, I don't have a KE70, but I do have a 9thgen Corolla with a 1ZZ-FE and had a 4A-FE AE92 DX. I'm here to ask on how to build the 7K engine from my Tamaraw FX/Kijang, it has a 7K-C much like the pre-'99 Lite-Ace from Australia and the KE70s you guys install it in. I'm decided to get the engine built-up by the end of November if I get the right parts... My plans are to PnP the head, new valve stems and springs, maybe change compression to 9.5:1, replace the cam to a better one, adjustable sprockets, upgrade the ignition to an MSD Coil, a better mapped and more stable distributor and high-tension wires, 4-2-1 headers, straight exhaust or at least have a huge resonator and a 4" pipe at the end, twin sidedraft 40 carbs, make a custom linkage for it and make the alternator 120-160A.

 

I expect the 4K manifold for the Weber40s to fit, I'm not sure if it's the same, I need your input here for compatibility. Anyway, I'm hoping to get it to rev past 6,800RPM and still be torquey since it's for a truck. Can I get some input on how to make this plan work? I have the budget to make it work, but I'm not really good on the K-Series so I really need some help from the gurus. I need some answers on which cam to get, which distributor and what timing curve to use, what would be a a really good comp-ratio with Octane93-96 leaded petrol, and how do I get the engine to stay cool at severe traffic. I just need some extra advice on how to do the build, I already read up on the how to build a good K-Series engine, but most of them are 4K and 5K applics. So please help on this 7K thing.

 

 

Thanks a lot guys!

[Taz_Rx]

Firstly I think you need to be congratulated on your post, considering english wouldn't be your first language! :jamie:

We have many aussie members who stuggle to write such a coherant post/thread.

 

Anyway - Being a torquey, long stroke motor there's not a whole lot that can be done about the revs. Yes sure you can put an aftermarket camshaft in it, but this would want to be pretty mild - which will keep you some decent torque still too.

I can help with some of your other questions - Yes a 3/4/5k DCOE manifold will fit the 7k. They even have the same sized ports, so you wouldn't have to do any port matching. Same with extractors. Distributor - Is the stock 7kc one electronic (it should be since 5k's had them)? If so just use that but get it re-curved to suit. Probably just easiest to leave the CR stock, or you could plane the head a bit to up it, but keep in mind your hydro lifters when you do. To keep it cool, just recore the stock radiator to a bigger one if required, and maybe fit a thermo fan and thermostat switch. Oh and most of the rules for bulding a tough 4/5k would still apply to the 7k :wink:

[forpinks]

  On 10/19/2010 at 11:09 PM, Taz_Rx said:

Firstly I think you need to be congratulated on your post, considering english wouldn't be your first language! :jamie:

We have many aussie members who stuggle to write such a coherant post/thread.

 

Anyway - Being a torquey, long stroke motor there's not a whole lot that can be done about the revs. Yes sure you can put an aftermarket camshaft in it, but this would want to be pretty mild - which will keep you some decent torque still too.

I can help with some of your other questions - Yes a 3/4/5k DCOE manifold will fit the 7k. They even have the same sized ports, so you wouldn't have to do any port matching. Same with extractors. Distributor - Is the stock 7kc one electronic (it should be since 5k's had them)? If so just use that but get it re-curved to suit. Probably just easiest to leave the CR stock, or you could plane the head a bit to up it, but keep in mind your hydro lifters when you do. To keep it cool, just recore the stock radiator to a bigger one if required, and maybe fit a thermo fan and thermostat switch. Oh and most of the rules for bulding a tough 4/5k would still apply to the 7k :wink:

 

That's some compliment mate! Thanks! ;) That's just the little price I got from being an ex-tourist guide.(That's ala-Slumdog Millionaire in Taj... haha! I was in grade school!)

 

Anyway, that's a relief for me to know that a 4K Weber manifold would work perfect. I could get those 2 pieces of metal now. As for the distributor, I'm pretty sure mine is the mechanical one with the rotating hammer connected to some sort of sprocket. It kinda sucks when the plastic cap heats up, it makes the engine burp occasionally at the highway due to warping. I really wish it was electronic. Is it fine to add a thermo-fan even to go along with the belt-driven fan the K-engines usually have? I could easily do the recore here, there's a shop that does it cheap.

 

I'm still unsure on the Weber 40s though, is the $600 really worth it even if I don't change anything in the bottom block? Do they have cheaper, non-Weber side draft carbs that are decent? And which brand(s) of camshafts are reliable for daily use? (I hear horror stories of cams breaking from the cheap materials. And it happened to a friend's Talon with eBay cams.)

Edited October 20, 2010 by forpinks

[corolla_bitten]

hey there, if you are goin to go and add a thermo fan to your radiator, you may as well just take off the old fan belt driven fan to free up sum horse power, if you are going to add a 130 odd amp alternator this will easily drive a massive thermo fan. you can run both but the thermo would just be a restriction the belt fan has to suck past. As for carbies, other brands include solex, which i run, very good in my opinion and cheaper, as well as dellortos, any carbies you get, will probly need rebuilding, about $250 aust dollars these days. and for camshafts, alot of people will send there old one away and get it reground to a new profile, ive had one for years, still goes very hard. hope this helps, thanks dylan