The 'K Engine' Cam Thread.

[Taz_Rx]

yeah I'm in the same boat just wanna make a f@$kin mean sounding k motor don't care about power haha

 

Swap some spark plug leads around.... that'll give you a lumpy idle with no power for a $0 budget!! :poke:

[GJM85]

If you going to spend the $160 on a cam, you'll need new lifters or have the current lifters refaced. There's another $100. You'll want do your timing gear aswell if it's not fresh. There's $140.

It's likely your lifters will end up in the sump when you try to get them out so there's $15 for the gasket and $30 for new oil. It's also likely that they won't go back in through the head, so it will come off and you'll spend $100 having it skimmed plus the $170 on the VRS kit to get it back on. If your cam is real big, you'll need your dizzy regraphed for around $300

 

You'd want to be real good to get away with a clean cam swap.

Edited October 11, 2010 by GJM85

[7FOUR7]

Money isn't really an issue, the head will be coming off for a freshen up plus a shave to get around 10:1 comp

[Taz_Rx]

If you going to spend the $160 on a cam, you'll need new lifters or have the current lifters refaced. There's another $100. You'll want do your timing gear aswell if it's not fresh. There's $140.

It's likely your lifters will end up in the sump when you try to get them out so there's $15 for the gasket and $30 for new oil. It's also likely that they won't go back in through the head, so it will come off and you'll spend $100 having it skimmed plus the $170 on the VRS kit to get it back on. If your cam is real big, you'll need your dizzy regraphed for around $300

 

You'd want to be real good to get away with a clean cam swap.

 

:rolls:

 

Refacing lifters should only cost you about $8 each. If you're paying $100 a set then you need to take some knee pads down to your local machine shop! :lol: You're also getting ripped if you're paying $140 for a chain and a timing cover gasket kit.

 

Lifters in sump! :rolls: Thats why you remove them before removing that camshaft. Doubt cam would come out without removing lifters anyway. You can also get them out with the head on pretty easy - long reach pliers would work.

$100 for a re-skim - again, knee pads - You should be paying $44.

Edited October 11, 2010 by Taz_Rx

[KENut]

You can also get them out with the head on pretty easy - long reach pliers would work.

 

A long magnetic stick works a treat

[ke70dave]

well this has been quite an enjoyable thread to read.

 

best off ringing the guys who are going to be supplying your camshaft, they know lots of good stuff.

 

and although i do agree with you taz, i think its good to remmber that with modifications they almost always goes over budget! but yes alot of those prices are grosely over estimated.

[Zoidburg]

My 5K has a cam that says "666" on it, anyone know what it is?

 

It feels like a mild, mid-top end cam. My motor is set up well but I need some twin Weber's on it to run properly.

 

I'm considering putting a torquey cam in there. What's the easiest way to change a camshaft? Also are 4K/5K cams the same?

 

Thanks

[ninja-philbo]

comeon taz no reason to be mean u kno what i meen with the power thing

[GJM85]

:rolls:

 

Refacing lifters should only cost you about $8 each. If you're paying $100 a set then you need to take some knee pads down to your local machine shop! :lol: You're also getting ripped if you're paying $140 for a chain and a timing cover gasket kit.

 

Lifters in sump! :rolls: Thats why you remove them before removing that camshaft. Doubt cam would come out without removing lifters anyway. You can also get them out with the head on pretty easy - long reach pliers would work.

$100 for a re-skim - again, knee pads - You should be paying $44.

 

As it appears you've already done all the throat work, i'll just send all my gear to you for machining....

[Taz_Rx]

comeon taz no reason to be mean u kno what i meen with the power thing

 

Sorry mate, just some light hearted comedy. Wasn't having a dig.

 

As it appears you've already done all the throat work, i'll just send all my gear to you for machining....

 

Mate you were just way overpircing some of that work. I didn't want to see you scare somebody off a re-build etc when it wasn't going to cost as much as what you were quoted. I know its best to under-quote and over-deliver but that was going a little too far IMHO.

[Andy43]

We run a wade 446b grind, lumpy at idle not much below 3000, runs good 4000 to 7000 rpm.

Wade will grind the cam for about 80 bucks and lifters about 4 bucks each.

 

We run the cam advance at what wade recommend's its set to 8` btdc at 50 thou lift on intake.

This works out to 72 thou at tdc.

 

You will find the standard cam gear will retard the cam a few degrees.

This will change the performance curve of the cam.

 

To time the cam.

Set a dial indicator up on piston ,check TDC on the balancer and remark if required.

Rotate crank so intake lifter is on bottom of cam lobe.

Set dial indicator on intake lifter and zero.

rotate crank to TDC and read the lift.

From here you need to decide to retime cam or leave as is.

 

To retime.

I redrill the timing gear. ( but I have been told you can buy aftermarket timing gears that will advance or retard cam by 5` Me I'm too tight to spend the bucks)

I have jig that fits the inner bolt hole of the cam.

I use a old gear as a template.

There are 36 teeth on the cam gear, but as the gear spins at half the rate of the crank the tooth spacing at 20`.

So if the cams retarded say 5` you need to move the hole anticlockwise one quarter of a tooth.

Is just a matter of finding a spot on the gear using one gear as a guide and drilling through the gear dowel hole in to the other.

Don't forget to remark the timing link mark for the chain.

Reinstall gear on cam and remeasure.

 

Hope this helps.

If you want some pix on redrilling or timing cam, I can upload next time I do one.

 

Cheers

Andy

[altezzaclub]

Wade will grind the cam for about 80 bucks and lifters about 4 bucks each.

 

man! I wuz ripped! Crow charged me $170 for a grind and lifters faced & mailed back to me, and that was the cheapest quote I got, including Wade!

 

So if you assemble it a tooth out that is 20deg?? I'm thinking of twinspinna's problem of the 5K not starting with a new ground cam. 20deg would stop it running I'm sure.

[Andy43]

I had a holden 308 with a stuffed chain jump a tooth, it just ran but farted and shot big flames out the carby.

Andy

 

man! I wuz ripped! Crow charged me $170 for a grind and lifters faced & mailed back to me, and that was the cheapest quote I got, including Wade!

 

So if you assemble it a tooth out that is 20deg?? I'm thinking of twinspinna's problem of the 5K not starting with a new ground cam. 20deg would stop it running I'm sure.

[azzy_10]

were can you get new lifters from building and working a 3k that i got but only got 4k head

whats the go to put a 4k head on 3k block

[snot35]

You'll lower the compression doing that unless you get the head skimmed. Or run a turbo. Can you rephrase the question regarding lifters?