4k Into A Ke10?

[nomis]

Hi guys,

 

Searched everywhere couldnt find any decent info so if anyone can link me something i suck. :(

 

My 1K is kind of on the way out and I'm looking at my options.

 

Is it possible to rebuild the 1k with out spending an arm and a leg?

 

Also is the 4k and option? i would like to bolt on the 2speed toyo glide gearbox. I know its not everyones cup of tea but i want a cruiser lol.

 

Let me know..

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Cheers

Simon.

[67Rolla-Ken]

You can bolt the toyoglide straight onto a 3k, 4k or 5k and bolt straight in with no mods. You could rebuild the 1k but 3k's are cheep as chips, just throw one of them in.

 

Edit: Don't ditch your 1K. Drain it, wack some grease in the bores, wrap it up and store it somewhere dry... They are getting harder to find and you might want to put the car back to original one day (or sell with original engine).

Edited August 4, 2010 by 67Rolla-Ken

[nomis]

Thanks Ken, absolute champ.

 

You are right the 1k is pretty rare these days.

 

How much to rebuild the 1k? as i would love to keep it stock and original.

 

How far should i take the rebuild?

 

It still runs pretty decent just leaking a lot of oil but other than that doesnt blow any smoke etc.

 

 

Cheers

Simon.

[67Rolla-Ken]

Where is it leaking? Do you just need new oil seals and sump gasket or do you need to take the head off? If you just need to change the front oil seal and sump gasket it won't cost much. But if you need to change the rear seal it will take a lot of time and the engine will need to come out.

 

Once you start looking at the head gasket you will also need to get the head skimmed, this will start to cost a bit.

[nomis]

Where is it leaking? Do you just need new oil seals and sump gasket or do you need to take the head off? If you just need to change the front oil seal and sump gasket it won't cost much. But if you need to change the rear seal it will take a lot of time and the engine will need to come out.

 

Once you start looking at the head gasket you will also need to get the head skimmed, this will start to cost a bit.

 

Looks like a few places, i want to change all the seals so its perfect.

 

Is there anywhere which stocks these seals?

 

Cheers

Simon.

[philbey]

first up; Cost to rebuild any K engine will be almost the same. I would go as far to say that rebuilding a 1K is probably the most expensive; it's a 40 year block, it will be the worst of the family of K engines as far as corrosion and fatigue . Not only that but it's the first of the family so all the stuff they got wrong, they probably got wrong with the 1K. Dumb shit like welsh plugs in funny spots and stupid valve stem seals spring to mind.

 

Ken is right, 1K's are getting hard to find. But who cares really, even an AVID collector, someone who'll pay big dollars for a resto'd KE10, probably wont give a shit if its missing the original motor.

 

In the world of engine conversions, consider all 1k 2k 3k 4k and 5k motors to be identical. Ok so there are some minor differences but it's nothing you can't solve with a bit of thought and a few extra minutes in the shed. Cutting, welding, fabricating not required. 7k's, this is not the case. Even still, not too hard to fit.

 

Cost to rebuild my 5K properly: around 1300 bucks, not assembled. You could save on this as well.

[Taz_Rx]

I think your first problem could be the availability of replacement 1K parts. :dance:

 

Sure you can use a lot of 3k or 4k bits, but I'm sure you'd still need some 1k specific bits like maybe rings and bearings.

And like Philbey said the 1k would be a pretty primative motor. If you went to a 4k atleast you have the piece of mind of knowing is basically like a "series 4 K motor" so problematic parts have been updated.

 

Also, going from a 1k to a 4k would be like going from a 12a to a 13b!!! Let alone a 5k.

[philbey]

Stroke on the 1k and 2k is shorter too so yes, Taz's point about bearings could definitely be an issue.

[nomis]

Fair enough, thanks heaps guys.

 

I'm going to aim and try and get a worked 4k or 5k.

 

I would love to bolt on my toyo glide, so that just bolts on right?

 

Also mounts are exact? and what about wiring etc..

[67Rolla-Ken]

Yes and yes, all is exactly the same ;)

[Taz_Rx]

Fair enough, thanks heaps guys.

 

I'm going to aim and try and get a worked 4k or 5k.

 

I would love to bolt on my toyo glide, so that just bolts on right?

 

Also mounts are exact? and what about wiring etc..

 

Toyo will bolt straight onto the 4k or 5k..... after you've bolted the 1k's flex plate and torque converter to the back of it.

 

I'm going to assume that 1k engine mounts are like 3k ones, which are different to 4k and 5k ones...... BUT they are all the same at the end which bolt to the cross member. SO - you just need to make sure you get a 4k or 5k WITH ENGINE MONUTS. ;)

 

There pretty much isn't any wiring to do!! Just bolt the 1k ancilleries (dizzy, alt, carby, waterpump/thermostat housing etc etc) to the 4k or 5k if they're different.

[silverra23]

I found when putting a 4K into my KE10 that there were two unexpected things that came up.

 

One, the kickdown rod needed to be adjusted - the extra height in the block of the 4K meant that the rod had too much tension on it, and my toyoglide wouldn't leave first gear.

 

Second one was that with the radiator in its original spot, the engine fan just clipped the top tank of the radiator.. or something on the radiator.. not enough to do damage, but enough to make a horrid noise under hard braking.

 

Slotting the holes fixed that.

[nomis]

Thanks so much guys, appreciate it heaps. :blinks:

 

Let you know how it goes... ;)

[Taz_Rx]

I found when putting a 4K into my KE10 that there were two unexpected things that came up.

 

One, the kickdown rod needed to be adjusted - the extra height in the block of the 4K meant that the rod had too much tension on it, and my toyoglide wouldn't leave first gear.

 

Second one was that with the radiator in its original spot, the engine fan just clipped the top tank of the radiator.. or something on the radiator.. not enough to do damage, but enough to make a horrid noise under hard braking.

 

Slotting the holes fixed that.

 

Funny you should mention that. One of our local members brought his 5k powered ke18 on a toyotas cruise, and he had bugger all room between the fan and rad. While stopped for our lunch brake he went to get some food. Took off sort of hard, the engine moved slightly and the fan sliced up the radiator core. ;)

[67Rolla-Ken]

Ouch.

 

I've done away with my fan as there was bugger all room, put a thermo on the front.