Gjm85'S Ke20 Build

[GJM85]

So this spells the end of the structural rust. Thanks again to my brother Nic for his fab fab skills.

 

Edited July 5, 2014 by GJM85

[altezzaclub]

About 100ml came back after about 5 minutes but it was speckled with silver and black shit which has obviously been flowing into my tank for the last few weeks.

 

When I took the gold KE70 up to the farm three weeks ago I unloaded it, chatted to everyone for an hour, & then we thought we'd take it down the pub for dinner. It started, ran about 10M and died, and wouldn't restart... We used a different car and the next day I poured some fuel down the carb and it fired up.

 

I took it up to Coolangatta that day and parked it at the hospital where my bro' was. After a couple of hours I went to drive it home.. it started, ran for 10M and died! We left it in the car park and the next day I poured fuel down the carb and it started. If I just left it overnight without re-starting it then it was fine.

 

Back down on the farm I watched it and found the fuel was pushed back down the line from the pump and it even emptied the filter, so it wouldn't run once it used the carb bowl of fuel as the pump was full of air. Overnight the vapour condensed and pulled the fuel back to the pump, but for that hour or two it had no chance of starting. A blow down the return line with a compressor seems to have fixed it, it's been fine since.

 

I suppose I should've disconnected the return line at the tank and blown the shit into a jar, now the tank is full of silver and black shit too! I wondered if the return line actually did anything!

[GJM85]

Installed a Facet solid state pump this arvo. The mechanical pump was a never ending oil leak so it had to go.

So its 132L/ph @ 4-7psi pump, 5/16 fuel lines throughout, Holley red regulator and an Aeroflow pressure gauge. Drawing through 2 filters and pushing through 1, I can get just shy of 6 psi at the reg so it does quite well.

 

I haven't wire it up yet but I'll run it off a relay until I can get an oil pressure switch. Luckily I have this little gem. An oil pick up with an extra hole.

Edited July 7, 2014 by GJM85

[GJM85]

Turns out that extra hole is a pressure relief valve.

So that ain't gonna work...

[Taz_Rx]

Surely you could just setup a relay off the existing light sender. Pretty sure it pulls the light to ground so you should be able to wire the negative of the relay trigger to it without any interference to the light. You'll just have to wire the pump power off 87a as the relay will end up normally open.

Only problem I can foresee is starting. If its only say for a little while then there should be enough fuel in the bowl to get you started, build oil pressure and activate the pump. If the car sits for long enough to evaporate all fuel from the bowl then you would need some sort of bypass prime switch/button.

 

Alternatively, just run a t piece in the stock sender hole.

[kickn5k]

Alternatively you can use an LPG safety switch. I've used them before for carb stuff. The ones I've used will prime off the ignition switch and then run the pump after it receives a tach signal off the coil.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331102163645

Something like this.

[GJM85]

The LPG certainly looks like the easiest option.

Thanks guys!

[B.L.Z.BUB]

Rust repairs look great! Now repair my whole car?

[GJM85]

Structural rust is one thing. This car has rust blooms coming out everywhere now. A mere 4 years since the rebuild. I'm not game to touch it. I reckon there's about 3mm of high fill over the whole body.

[GJM85]

Today I mapped the ignition curve of my Bosch distributor. I'll be putting in the Tighe 104 25/65 .423" cam I have soon and I'm looking at re-graphing the distributor. From the information I've gathered its already pretty close to what is required.

 

Edited July 13, 2014 by GJM85

[GJM85]

Today I mapped the ignition curve of my Denso distributor. The brass bushes on the centrifugal weights are a bit warn out. This causes the weights to move out immediately upon rotation despite how much I play with the spring post. I guessed there'd a small loss of advance as a result, which actually shows in the graph.

According to the manual, this distributor should have 15 degrees of mechanical advance with an initial setting of 8 btdc. I use 10 on my engine. So it should have 25 degrees btdc when 'all in'.

 

 

I do have a Denso electronic dizzy with the internal ignitor. Could be 5k or 7k. I'll map that one day. At the moment i've got a cdi running with the points and couldn't really be farked messing around with the wiring to hook it up.

Edited July 13, 2014 by GJM85

[carbonboy]

A bit late, but I'll vouch for the LPG switch, I run one on Blue Thing & it hasn't missed a beat. It has a one second prime time, maybe the three second model would work better.

[GJM85]

A bit late, but I'll vouch for the LPG switch, I run one on Blue Thing & it hasn't missed a beat. It has a one second prime time, maybe the three second model would work better.

 

I read that the LPG switch triggers off a number pulses from the coil. A ten pulse trigger wouldn't take long to prime with an msd ignition due to the multi-spark feature.

[GJM85]

So I got the Gastec LPG switch. Ninja fitment!

It primes for about 3 seconds when the ignition switches to 'ON'. The fires up almost immediately when the ignition hits 'START'.

The fuel pump cuts out again when the coil stops unloading no matter which way I kill the engine,

 

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Stu!

 

[kickn5k]

No probs mate. Bay is looking tidy👍