GJM85 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) Some how the brass fuel delivery tube inside the secondary auxillary venturi keeps vibrating around to face the wrong way. I superglued it back the right way but that only lasted a week. So this time I tried to flare the end of it and press it back in. The punch became stuck so I heated it up and it broke when i tried to get it off. Not suprising. Had to fix it. Nicbro's skills should not be under estimated. Awesome. Edited May 31, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
snot35 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) Interesting. I thought this one through not long ago when finding some 36mm IDF's in a Upullit. Passed on them because I didn't want to chop the bonnet. It would have been tight, even in a '70. You can also buy phenolic spacers to suit those Webers on ebay, with varying heights which is interesting. I like the idea of recycling though, nice! Edited July 11, 2013 by snot35 Quote
altezzaclub Posted July 11, 2013 Report Posted July 11, 2013 An air velocity &/or a pressure probe would be interesting.. The carb inlets need still air really, so exposed trumpets must suffer according to which way the wind blows, what speed, when they get pressurised or have the air sucking them backwards... It would look stunning tho'. Quote
GJM85 Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Posted July 11, 2013 Yeah your right about the wind causing a vacuum drawing backwards on the carbs. I've been looking at to many matchbox cars. Some type of reverse scoop would likely be in order ____/ y / y /y / y___ Quote
altezzaclub Posted July 11, 2013 Report Posted July 11, 2013 I don't know, Gav its something that would take a lot of testing. It surprises me when people fit a backwards-facing scoop to get air from the high-pressure area in front of the screen. To me that means you must have the bonnet sealed to a plate under the trumpets or air will flow OUT that scoop from the radiator. Its the sort of thing that sports car racers love, building a one-off special that they can spend years and years tinkering around with. The whole cold-air box on The Girl's KE70 could do with more refinement when I have a few months free, it can always be improved. Certainly that leaned the rear carb from air pressure building up in the back of the airbox. You could extend your sex toy and semi-seal it around the air cleaner... Besides you wouldn't want to cut into that lovely bonnet! Any bright ideas from the handling book?? Quote
GJM85 Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Posted July 12, 2013 When it comes to the front end handling the roll centre adjusters and adhustable camber tops are the only things I'm missing for a street application. When it comes to the rear end there's heaps to do but for a road car it's all to much. Reset springs, a retro fitted rear sway bar and tramp bars is all you'll need for even the toughest k motors. I've really got to change back to ke20 rear shocks because the 30/55 shocks are at the wrong extension for my ride height and it feels like they are pulling the body downwards rather than softening the compression of the leaf spring. I've ordered RCA's through Techno Toy Tuning. Camber tops will have to wait as will the rear end. I've got a kph/mph decal coming for the cluster. I'm still waiting for the ol' tax man to come through before I decide what's mos important. I have the gaskets to do a cam change so I'm thinking of putting the 270*/.401^ cam in. Still need some valve springs. Quote
kickn5k Posted July 13, 2013 Report Posted July 13, 2013 More neg camber in the front will help a lot Gav. I'd highly recommend a rear bar, made a massive difference to the 11. Handles a little better than the 1600, and that's with that wizzbang front end in it you saw(I really should update that thread). Check out "signature stabilizer bars". Pretty sure their contact details are in driftfreak's beams ke10 thread(sorry haven't figured out how to link from the new Android) Quote
GJM85 Posted July 13, 2013 Author Report Posted July 13, 2013 How did you mount up the rear bar in the 11 stu? I was looking at using the 55 rear sway bar when I put the diff in but could see no good way to mount it to the floor. Tommy's ke11 seems to have got it nutted. Quote
kickn5k Posted July 13, 2013 Report Posted July 13, 2013 There is also a substantial plate under the seat to spread the load of the link pin mounts. Quote
GJM85 Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Posted July 14, 2013 (edited) Only Toyota at the Logan PCYC Car Show today. Represent! (Except for Steven Kelly's Crown wagon, who left just after I got there). Edited July 14, 2013 by GJM85 Quote
GJM85 Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Posted July 20, 2013 A few things happening at the moment. I bought a km/h cluster and some tail lights from a member here which is tops. Cluster is sweet and the tail lights will get a lick off paint. Also trying a set of saas buckets which are giving me grief due to the low seat belt hanging point on the B pillar. I'll hopefully sort something out soon. Running a new tune today with 140/155 mains, 140/150 airs, 50/55 idles, 10* static advance and 35 all in. Seems pretty smooth with a heap of punch when the secondaries come in. 1 Quote
GJM85 Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Posted July 21, 2013 Tuning tuning tuning, need an O2 sensor, raw hide! Quote
GJM85 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Posted July 26, 2013 Made a new vinyl parcel shelf this arvo. The carpeted one perished within 3 months. Free white, 10mm backed vinyl, because its creased. Stapler and some good quality vinyl paint. I've got a few metres so I'm going to do the door cards soon as well Also both my toyotas. Quote
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