Crowie55 Posted June 11, 2011 Report Posted June 11, 2011 Nice score Gav, keen to see this thing out on the road. Any chance of you making the all Jap day at banyo? Quote
GJM85 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Report Posted June 12, 2011 When is the all Jap day? I'd be heaps keen to get out there and tax time should see it on the road. I'm getting heaps of loose ends tied up at the moment. I'd say a it would be very close to road worthy now. Today I tiedied up some wires and cables under the hood. Fitted a pcv setup, running into cylinder 1. Hooked up the old school Stewart and Warner 4" tacho. Battery clamp and squirty bottle. Customized the fuel breather. Centre console. Fitted the Toyota badge on the boot. Prepped the door cards so I just need some clips and then they can be trimmed. I painted a few things here and there. The wipers are ready as soon as I get blades. I want to make up a stainless steel heat shield for the sidedrafts, though. Few more pics... Quote
Crowie55 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Posted June 12, 2011 19th June so probably out of your time frame. Oh well you should come and have a look if you can, heaps of nice car I personally know are attending so it should be a great day. If you want more info check the Queensland section. Cheers, Crowie. Quote
GJM85 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Report Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) Another step closer. Original KE20 pitman arm by Three Five. Should get into it tomorrow, fix up my leaking steering box and fit the new pitman. The idler arm looks to be quite new so i'll be leaving that alone. Edited June 22, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
GJM85 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Posted June 26, 2011 Little more done with the completion of the steering box, pitman arm and retensioning the control arms. I also ran new 3/8 fuel lines from the steel lines. I painted the sun visors black with the vinyl paint and got the fitted. It's all about the baby steps. Whilst under the car doing the steering I noticed a drop of oil hanging out of the extractors. Immediately started having horrible thoughts. I dropped the oil and there was no metal in there but it smelt like fuel and emptied at almost 4.5 litres. :bash: My guess is the ignition issue in cylinder 2 and 4, due to what I believe is a shod dizzy, has allowed unburnt fuel to reach the sump thinning the oil. This is then thrown back up into the top end, seeping into the bores and out the exaust. I hope this is the case anyway. The dizzy is definately going to the auto-leccy this week. Quote
ninja-philbo Posted June 26, 2011 Report Posted June 26, 2011 such a overrated car man no more k motor in my 20 but Quote
GJM85 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) such a overrated car man no more k motor in my 20 but Oh really? what's it packing? --- I started on the 2 of superlites this arvo. Somewhere along the line someones painted them with what appears to be a cheap silver so it's coming off. Paint brush, paint stripper, a few rags and the Gernie. Not sure if i'm going to repaint them or clear over the original casting. If I paint them, colour do you think I should run with? Be careful with the paint stripper. That shit burns. It also takes the clear of the rim and appears to enjoy the taste of rubber. Edited June 27, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
BUZ440 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) I think I have seen this when i was at Canungra, you guys out at Beaudesert like to tinker with cars, alot of good welders down there *edit, My car is originally from Beaudesert, and brought from the Toyo dealer at Morooka many years ago, haha Edited June 30, 2011 by NISROLA Quote
GJM85 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Posted July 9, 2011 Not a great deal yet. Waiting on the tax return so I can finish this thing off. Otherwise just a few small things. I got a new indicator regulator. The steel brick one must have f@$ked out because I wasn't getting any flash. So a $12 Narva 2 pronged unit should hopefully fix that up. I've decided to run with the Cheviot meshies from here on, purely because the 55 diff in the rear is 35mm wider than the standard ke20 diff. Couple that with the offset of the Superlites, my rear track hangs an inch out of the rear wheel arches and I know that will give me problem when it comes to road worthy and rego. So unless something changed the superlites will go up for sale soon maybe. The mesh has been growing on me anyhow. The exaust and dizzy regraph is on top of the priority list so hopefully by then end of the month that will be sorted. For some reason I can stop oil leaking out of the sump plug. I'm really hoping it isn't cracked around the drain hole. I'll have a look at that tomorrow.... Quote
Evan G Posted July 9, 2011 Report Posted July 9, 2011 sick some selant on the drain plug ftw! works a treat Quote
GJM85 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Report Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) The badness of over fueling. The goodness of ebay. The thrill of chopping down a dead 20m gum and not killing Dad's house. The reward for not killing the house. I've ordered some LED wedge globes for the KE20 cluster, got the custom strut brace off ebay to. I decided to take the headers off because I have decided to heat wrap them. It's going to be easier and more beneficial that making a heat sheild of sorts. That's when I found the lovely greasey carbon type substance that gets into the exaust when your over fueling and increasing the sump level. Watching U-tube videos on how to wrap the headers. To sleazy bitches. Peace Edited July 15, 2011 by GJM85 Quote
kickn5k Posted July 16, 2011 Report Posted July 16, 2011 For some reason I can stop oil leaking out of the sump plug. I'm really hoping it isn't cracked around the drain hole. I'll have a look at that tomorrow.... Hey man have you tried a new copper washer on the plug? I replace mine every service. Stu. Quote
philbey Posted July 16, 2011 Report Posted July 16, 2011 Would be pretty hard to crack a sump without hitting something. did you end up repairing the carby flange? Must have really cranked it up to crack it. Best way would be to weld it and get it machined flat. Bolt it up to a plate and tack it, then pull off and weld the rest Quote
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