altezzaclub Posted July 10, 2010 Report Posted July 10, 2010 yep- same as a head gasket job really. You do the strip and clean, a machine shop takes care of the head/valves, then you do the reassembly. You'll need a set of spanners, some WD40, a torque wrench and lots of patience, but you will learn a lot! Go check the tappet gaps and see how they are. I'd lean towards a head gasket rather than a bent valve. Quote
Scott_87 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Posted July 10, 2010 Yeah I thought head gasket as well but checked coolant levels and no bubbles when cold or milky oil so I mean until I do test I wont really know but just assumed it would be something else. I'll keep ya updated tomorrow after I nick down to Supercheap and buy me a compression tester. P.S how about cam install something that would be recommended? Quote
Raven Posted July 10, 2010 Report Posted July 10, 2010 Its not always a tell-tale sign of milky oil residue under the cap or bubbles in the radiator. If it blows between a water jacket and the cylinder you'll more than likely get bubbles, but not always. Damp exhaust gases (test by putting your hand near the exhaust while running on initial start up) is one way to determine if its blown through a water jacket. If its between cylinders, then it'll run rough. Have you tried taking the spark plug out and attaching it to the lead and earthing it to see if the plug is getting spark at all? Better still, where are you located? If you're not too far away I can come have a look if you want a second opinion? Quote
Scott_87 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Posted July 10, 2010 Ok well without taking the motor apart i've had the old man and me uncle check it out! There saying coz I smelt exhaust fumes before the problem and the way the car sounds and runs could be the exhaust outlet. But he and the oldy are taking off the rocker cover the check Quote
Scott_87 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Posted July 10, 2010 Alright well I suppose there's good and bad news. I have solid lifters which is the good but bad is valve. Ah well parts are covered under warranty just had to pay for or install myself. Say I go for the cam at the same time do I buy new cam or take my out and they regrind that? And anything else I may look at upgrading while the motors apart? Quote
altezzaclub Posted July 11, 2010 Report Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) They will regrind yours, I don't think anyone has access to blanks anymore. I pulled the motor out, lifted the head off and took the crank out, but left the pistons in. I had the crank cleaned & fitted new bearings, (they were a bit worn from a poor oil filter years ago) & took the valves out and had them and the seats machined, and had the head skimmed 15thou. The cam I sent off to Crow and had it ground, and when I put it back together I fitted twin SUs and extractors. It took a while but all went together nicely in the end. I didn't touch pistons/rings or water pump or cam chain/tensioners, just cleaned everything up. The flywheel I'd had skimmed a year back with a new clutch so I didn't touch the clutch setup. oh- and I fitted the spacer under the oil pump spring! :P Edited July 11, 2010 by altezzaclub Quote
Scott_87 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Posted July 22, 2010 Just in case people were following this, ended up being timing aparantely Quote
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