greenmac80 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Posted June 30, 2010 cheers, LOL all i wanna do is paint the thing!! progress tonight. put the urethane on the door inside and out. and also started priming the car. the primer i'm using is a single pack primer from protec. its and etch and an adhesion promoter. more got done after the pics. pretty much all the bare metal surfaces and covered now. Quote
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 definitely great progress mate and like the choice of colour Quote
greenmac80 Posted July 5, 2010 Author Report Posted July 5, 2010 more progress is happening but my stupid phone broke so no piccies. BOO to Nokia, Nokia can burn in hell... sick of their unreliable phones.! more bare metalling done.. some panel beating and the first stages of smoothing beaten areas and fixing the roof done. hope to spend some more time on it over the next few arvos and get more of it in primer. lovin it!! Quote
Murd 55 Posted July 5, 2010 Report Posted July 5, 2010 there is only one place in adelaide that I'm aware of that will do a properly heat sealed vinyl roof and they are not cheap! most are just stiched and moisture can still get through and cause damage. i know this because a guy at my work restoring a xb to orig spec got a new vinyl roof for it cost him around 1k. i think that the ke10 would look far better without a vinyl roof, but thats my opinion. colour choice looks good will be interesting to see it on a old girl. Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Report Posted September 2, 2010 haven't done too much to this lately.. been working on the daily more.. but i've started designing flares for it... 40mm don't mind the bog.. i' trying out a new method... they do it in the states where you skim the car with a layer of bog.. and sand it back. its working really well. you panel beat the dents. skim it sand back with 40grit and basically in one hit its straight. and i've collected ke20 front end gear for it. Quote
untubbed_20 Posted September 4, 2010 Report Posted September 4, 2010 POR 15 is the go for inside the doors and panels, my mate uses it on all his restos, great stuff I;m using it on my 10's doors once the rust is finished getting cut out cheers darren Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Posted September 4, 2010 yeah its the same sorta shit aye.. its a full rust system.. a cleaner an zinc phosphate and a moisture curing urethane. Quote
Des Posted September 4, 2010 Report Posted September 4, 2010 I only just found this. How big is your compressor ? Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Posted September 4, 2010 the one at the workshop is only 6cfm and it farking shagged i have recently lay-by'd a new one.. its 6.5 cfm but new and will flow plenty of air for spraying cars. why u ask? Quote
Des Posted September 5, 2010 Report Posted September 5, 2010 the one at the workshop is only 6cfm and it farking shagged i have recently lay-by'd a new one.. its 6.5 cfm but new and will flow plenty of air for spraying cars. why u ask? I'm going to be spraying the inner guards and doors of my Ke11 soonish. I can't remember the flow of my father compressor but its small and direct drive so i don't think its much. Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 5, 2010 Author Report Posted September 5, 2010 a small compressor wil be fine for small areas.. its when your spraying an entire car.. you have to keep the 2 pack 'wet' so you need to spray without stopping so you need a larger one. i sprayed a trailer with a 100l/min direct drive thing and you could get through a quarter of it at a time. Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 so progress is still happening with this thing.. currently its tipped up on its side. diff has been removed. and i've begun rust repairs. the bottom rear quarter on te drivers side has had to be completely rebuilt. the outside has been finished.. still need to repair the wheel well and the backside of the bottom bit. also cut out a huge chunk of rust in the sill panel.. really annoying here as both layers of metal a fubar so i'm having to try and stitch in 2 layers to retain the stock drainage and strength.. attempted to use a gravity fed sandblaster to do the bottom of my floor pan but it takes way too long.. so the car will be heading to my work soon. there it will have the floor pan blasted.. then stitch weld the chassis and primed in a protec zinc phosphate. flares are being ditched.. not doing em car is taking a different direction will go bolt ons later on. although temporary its gonna get regoed with a 3k and become the daily for a while.. the current daily will come off the rd for a full rust cut and repaint. the reasoning behind this is the fact that the 11 will have to go through regency for rego so i have to put a stock engine in it anyways. so this being fresh and stock will give me good timing to redo the paint on the ke30.. will be schmiko when finished. Quote
greenmac80 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Posted September 19, 2010 here are some progress pics. flipped her up and removed the diff first of all. the rear quarter, cut out this.. and put in this then cut out this.... and put in this. Quote
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