Evan G Posted June 6, 2010 Author Report Posted June 6, 2010 thanks for the information & your advice. my plan in.. use penrite running-in drop the oil/filter/torque headbolts agian/adjust valves after 300kms then use CASTROL GTX3 MODERN ENGINE 15W-40 drop it every 5000km and live happy ever after Quote
Bamboo Posted June 6, 2010 Report Posted June 6, 2010 thanks for the information & your advice. my plan in.. use penrite running-in drop the oil/filter/torque headbolts agian/adjust valves after 300kms then use CASTROL GTX3 MODERN ENGINE 15W-40 drop it every 5000km and live happy ever after Or use woolworths oil for start up - drop this after half an hour - I use this to clean, just in case. Also, never use rags, the little bits don't break down. Always use paper towel. Penrite running in - I usually give this 500ks Then penrite everyday oil - old cars love old style oils. The other one I favour is Penrite HPR 30. It's old faithful. Then i look around my garage and realise all my cars are running some version of penrite, I think I'm a little one eyed. GTX3 is for multi cam engines. GTX2 is old skool I've found with synthetic if you try and run in on it works so well, it won't allow any wear and the rings never bed! Just my 2 cents Boo Quote
TheNOBBLER[RL] Posted June 6, 2010 Report Posted June 6, 2010 Evan, you won't need to prime your lifters as they are solid not hydraulic lifters. That is unless you have changed or have a 5k lifter and cam setup. You will however need to run the moly lube supplied by your cam grinder for your cam (cam lobes only not the bearing journals) or if your reusing your stock cam you can buy some moly lube over the counter (grey not white). Ok, I have always run boring oil for startup and run in. Some people don't like to but I can see why I should waste $50 on good oil only to drop it a day later. Don't use shit oil, just not the best and only mineral. Crow cams recoment a 20min bed in for the cam above 2000rpm but with varying revs throughout this period. Make sure you have others on hand to check for leaks, bad noises etc. Shut it down if needed. I drop the oil after this, let it cool down and re check for leaks etc. After fresh oil of your choice... The good stuff..., filter and the like take her for a spin. Keep it rev happy, don't flog it yet but don't drive it like your grandparents. After a short drive making sure there are no problems along the way then you can get into it. If you've got hills hit them, backing off down a hill will help as much as accelerating up one. I usually go for a drive that lasts as long as I can have it. Over half an hour at least. Don't hit the highway and just cruise along yet, that's no better than putting around. Drop the oil after 1000km, run your oil of choice. Drive it normally but give it a bit here and there. I can't remember if there's anything else to note, my old man and I have done quite a few together and he's done way to many at his former job. All the engines were run in this way without issues, use the info how you will as with everyone elses :) JP Quote
Evan G Posted June 6, 2010 Author Report Posted June 6, 2010 (edited) thanks for your excellent write up and expertise, i could of swore that my lifter were hydraulic? also the moly lube, isn't that what they use in drive shafts? now my other dilemma. i live in Epping and from my driving experience's theres a nice hill near Greensboro and 2 more near doncaster. to get there i have to take a the ring road for 5 mins @ 90kph./ alot of red lights (about 9-12) theres another spot were we go for roadtests at work, nice hill's but again 15mins @100kph on the freeway to get there Edited June 6, 2010 by Evan G Quote
rob83ke70 Posted June 6, 2010 Report Posted June 6, 2010 don't stress too much about it, just be one of those annoying drivers that slows down to 70 or so then speeds back up to highway speed repeatedly..... thats what slow lanes are for lol. Robert. Quote
love ke70 Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 as was said, but it doesnt have to be that extreme. just be one of those muppets that can't set a foot position, so you accelerate, and decelarate, it gives you more combustion pressure and more negative pressure with the vacuum closing the throttle, pulls the rings against the bore. Quote
Evan G Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Posted June 8, 2010 as was said, but it doesnt have to be that extreme. just be one of those muppets that can't set a foot position, so you accelerate, and decelarate, it gives you more combustion pressure and more negative pressure with the vacuum closing the throttle, pulls the rings against the bore. ok sweeet. thanks mate Quote
colonel Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 (edited) now my other dilemma. i live in Epping and from my driving experience's theres a nice hill near Greensboro and 2 more near doncaster. to get there i have to take a the ring road for 5 mins @ 90kph./ alot of red lights (about 9-12) Evan, If ya head down Plenty Rd towards Whittlesea there's some good hills on the left after all the new housing estates Edited June 8, 2010 by colonel Quote
Andy43 Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 I'll add my 2 bob's worth. Mineral oil on startup. We change the oil and filter after cam run in, then every meeting. There's nothing better than fresh oil to make an engine last. Cam run in 20 minutes at 2200. If you want to synthetic oil, wait till the ring bed in, but if the engine has seen a few km's stay with Mineral or your seals will start to leak. Bedding the rings in, avoid high RPM and no load. We just go out and start racing it. Andy Quote
Evan G Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Posted June 8, 2010 Evan, If ya head down Plenty Rd towards Whittlesea there's some good hills on the left after all the new housing estates ive got a realllyyyy good route planned, plenty rd then northen ring road, greensbouro bypass then its hugeeee hills in the back of doncaster. i mean huge! Quote
KENut Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 Then penrite everyday oil - old cars love old style oils. Yeah I like this penrite everyday oil as well, good bang for buck I think. Has performed better than other oils that I've tried. Quote
Evan G Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Posted June 28, 2010 got another quick question, people from melbourne that have been down to king lake. how steep is the hills going there? apprently there f@$kING HUGE and steep witch leads me to my next question. would it be healthy if i was going up a huge hill when running in my engine (like foot flat to the floor in 2nd/3rd doing 40 - 60kph? cheers Quote
Felix Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 You should be avoiding driving up hills for a bit. It is going to run hotter than normal when it is has just been rebuilt. Quote
Evan G Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Posted June 28, 2010 You should be avoiding driving up hills for a bit. It is going to run hotter than normal when it is has just been rebuilt. understood. just "putt" around for a couple of hours? Quote
Trev Posted June 28, 2010 Report Posted June 28, 2010 My 2c, When my cousin builds an engine he never uses oil to assemble it, he uses assembly lubricant on the bearings and installs the pistons using CRC as it reduces wear where as certain oils will induce it and he runs every engine from day one on kendall GT-1 oil which has zinc in it, the run in process varies according to how the engine was built and he has not had an engine fail to date. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.