The Cro5dup Ke70

[Big_Valven]

Hey all, posting a thread up for my Rolla now that I have the right forum. :D

 

KE70 XX flat front sedan

Metallic Poo Brown

275,000kms

Standard 4K engine, 4 speed manual

Cut springs and new shocks

13 inch meshies with 175 rubber

Beige interior

Tacho dash

Genie "Turbo" exhaust

 

Done so far:

Stripped interior

Fixed wiring & headlights

Battery wiring redone

Fixed horns

Chrome Skull gear knob (from my old KE55)

Straightened bumpers

Drift numberplate relocation & rego sticker relocation

Garden edging wheel arch flares / mud flaps

 

To do:

Racing buckets

Lock diff

Hose-off rubber floor mats

Spotlights

Train horns (in my cupboard)

Steering wheel

Sheet metal door trims & seal off rear seat & shelf

 

Long term:

half cage & strut braces

Extractors & side pipes

SC12 until the engine goes then solid N/A cammed build

 

This is my bucket of fun. I bought it unreg'd and defected so it's not going to be a streeter anymore, that said it's a keeper for offroad use and I'm going to be having some DIY fun with it on the cheap. I'm a keen TIG welder with a workshop setup so I hope to have some fun with building the half cage, strut braces and exhaust.

Progress will likely be slow but it's all in the interests of fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2010 by Big_Valven

[Ella]

wait scrap that, where did the other one go :/

 

either way no matter.

 

like what you have done with the garden edging, cheap flares!

Edited June 1, 2010 by Ella

[twinspinna]

:D ;) :wink: I WANT THOSE HOTWIRES!!!!!! :) :yes: :yes:

 

Want to sell them??????

[RainWarriorDregs]

i've got a set of those exact same hotwires aswell :abuse:

 

they fit perfectly

 

cool flairs bro haha

[Big_Valven]

:yes: :D :D I WANT THOSE HOTWIRES!!!!!! :P :( :yes:

 

Want to sell them??????

 

Hehehe thanks but no thanks... I'm still trying to sell the interior but I'm getting no-one but tyre-kickers!

 

Have had a bit of fun with this over the weekend, it's awesome on clay trails, very responsive and plain fast!

Also been playing with the engine a bit, fixed the timing by feel (crank pulley's not indicating the right TDC angle :( ,) the points needed to be reset, but it's having trouble with spark on the rear two cylinders. :( I am considering a bit of an ignition overhaul, new coil, dizzy cap (current one isn't bad but can't hurt,) and new plugs, but also considering building an electronic ignition for it with Commodore coil packs or something similar. I can't work out which one's going to be most effort / benefit at the moment.

 

I've had a lot of fun getting my hands dirty, but I am itching to sort out this interior ASAP... still considering rebuilding the front seats myself if no-one's keen on buying the complete interior.

[Big_Valven]

Some newer pics.

 

 

 

Diff is getting leaky so it's going to need some freshening up next time I'm working on it. :yes:

[altezzaclub]

What's the story with the crank pulley do you think?

 

There's a guy having trouble setting his timing with a light on here currently, it only runs on 30deg.

 

Can the pulley lose the index to the crank? Rubber cored??

[Taz_Rx]

Theres a few different type of K series timing cover/crank pulleys and they have the timing marks in different spots. Its inperative that you use a matching pair of cover/pulley for the timing marks to be correct.

[philbey]

If the rubber fails there's no way she'll spin any more.

 

I'm with Taz, it's the wrong mark on the pulley.

[e70van]

dunno about those flares man.. you don't need them. (wheels don't stick out past guards) And it reminds me of the 4wd people. just needs a stainless steel snorkel and a right angle rubber joiner on the top :yes:

 

My first ke sedan was exactly this colour , same black stripes and XX spec :D

[Big_Valven]

dunno about those flares man.. you don't need them. (wheels don't stick out past guards) And it reminds me of the 4wd people. just needs a stainless steel snorkel and a right angle rubber joiner on the top :(

I hope the ride height doesn't remind you of a 4wd... lol

 

The flares aren't really to keep the wheels in anyway, more for mud guards than anything. :D

[Big_Valven]

I've been browsing build logs on here thinking what a pity it is that we often don't get to see builds progress, life changes and sometimes people move corollas on...

 

I'm not one of those people! This thing is still going 100% solid as ever.

 

this is a video I made from the first weekend we had it on dirt; while it still had an exhaust and an open diff. Because it was wet, much fun ensued.

 

 

I've done some simple mods to make it way more ghetto rally car, but tried to do them somewhat properly. I hope you all like. First of all was the driveline. I wouldn't drive a weldy on the road but we're looking to make maximum sideways with minimum torque, so this is the answer. We cleaned it up and did it properly, heating the spider gears before welding to get as much penetration as we could with the MIG.

 

 

The centre back in the car.

 

 

Sadly, this wasn't the end of proceedings. The welds have held up fantastically - with stock power and dirt to drive on, there really isn't much to put them at risk. The sheetmetal cover on the salisbury diff is another matter, and after many scrapes, it unknowingly let all it's oil out. That led to an epic siezure at around 100km/h, and the car went on the forklift back to the workshop.

 

 

Carnage!

 

 

I sourced a complete replacement axle but decided to be lazy and swap the rotating bits, it's held up brilliantly, since I was careful to wash out all the metal from the deceased bits.

 

 

We MIG'd a 5mm mild steel plate on to the bottom of the housing to avoid future issues. It's on a rib to give clearance to fit the cover - which was straightened and fitted with a new gasket - but will take any abuse without the cover peeling off again.

 

 

More 3rd gear slides ensued!

 

Up next: Interior :)

Edited November 29, 2014 by Big_Valven

[altezzaclub]

The next time you break the diff, don't weld the gears together, fill in the gaps between two teeth. That will give it a little open diff movement (about 1/4turn) and give better turn in.

 

Put the stock springs back in, its far too low for dirt & you'll just smash the udeneath to bits. Look at the springs for marks of them being coil-bound, and check the bump stops for marks of them being hit. You want the car to just not quite coil bind and just touch the bump stops on the worst bumps. We tossed out the stock bump stops and got softer more progressive ones. Once it hits the stops or coil binds the stress goes on the sidewalls and the tyres instantly lose grip.

 

Read "How not to build a rally car" to see how bad it can get. Same problem with the shocks, you end up pulling the car down into the dirt all the time unless you can find front shocks the go down stiffly and go up faster.

 

Corona LCAs for more front camber...

 

So much fun, so simple and cheap!

[Big_Valven]

Hehe, so true. I'd not have cut the springs, but we got the car with them, and haven't gone as far as to find stockos to put in. Sadly with the rear end it's a 50/50 between bump stops and rear tyre fitment scraping. Believe me everyone, it's NOT how I'd run a street car, or a competitive off roader. :)

 

This is a video from around that time, before we had GoPro cameras... Tripod strapped into the back of the car with a Handycam on it! *Please don't use video as any real assessment of my driving skill!* :pirate:

 

 

Well as much as I said interior was next, I did put some driving lights on first. (Very) used Cibie Oscars.

 

 

Fused and relay switched with high beams, and of course a bypass switch

 

 

 

Comparisons at fixed camera settings; low, high and driving lights!

 

[altezzaclub]

loL- cheapest fun you can have! I remember Steve's dad watching the paddock bashers saying "ruining my pasture those boys, ruining my pasture..."

 

You can see why they use Cibies in rallying.