Painting

[twinspinna]

Hey,

I'm guna paint the 30 myself in a mates shed. done a few matt jobs before but never a gloss.

 

Just want to know what kind of paint to use (acrilic, 2 pac etc) and any handy tips,prep work and things like that before i get stuck in.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

cheers

 

Zane

[Jono.C]

My dad's sprayed both his corolla's with a paint called 'killrust'. It Covers pretty evenly, supposedly slows the advancement of corosion and is fairly cheap.

 

Its about $38 dollars a litre i think.. when i last priced 2pac it was atleast 4 times that..

 

Biggest tip i could say is don't skimp on the preperation.. take the time to get the body free of imperfections and scratches before painting.. its easier to do it now then having to do it all again in 3 months..

 

one last thing, if you're going to clear coat it, mix the clear in with your last coat of colour.. a lot of people do it over the top of the colour which comes out okay at first but it can flake and peel.. the previous owner of my car sprayed it over the top and the roof and bonnet was so bad i had to do the whole car again..

 

Good luck

 

Jono :D

Edited May 23, 2010 by Jono.C

[twinspinna]

cool man.

 

After he finished painting it did it need much of a buff to come out nice and glossy??

 

i priced up 2pac and it was about 700-800 bux with primer and hardener and thinners an the rest.... expensive shite....

Edited May 23, 2010 by twinspinna

[Jono.C]

uh trying to think.. my dad never clear coated it for some reason.. but it was always pretty shiny and i couldnt see any reason why i wouldnt.. i'll see if i can find the photo of the ke38 he sprayed mate

[Johno]

That killrust stuff is very shiny and doesn't need a buff to get shiny.

 

You could spend days, weeks or even months with the prep on the car. Depends how good you want it to look or how damaged the body is.

 

Take of what you can, Ie Lights, indicators and what ever you can unbolt.

 

Bear rust should be at bear minimum rust converted.

 

Spots that you sanded through to bear metal should be primed in acrylic etch primer.

 

If your using the killrust you could maybe get away with no primer but make sure you Wet sand the whole car down with 800grit paper first and rub the car down with Wax and silicon remover to remove any grease or other contaminates.

 

If you want a real straight looking car, Fill dents, block sand, refill, sand again, prime, spray on black speckle coat (Guide Coat) Block sand again, if black spots are still there fill again.

 

You should block sand everything you can but leave the corners for hand sand later.

[Doogs]

If it's a DIY job then acrylic is usually the best choice. (2 Pack requires more extensive personal protective gear).

If you do choose acrylic I would only use clear coat if you are painting a metallic colour, solids don't need it. You can wet sand and buff a solid to a very good shine without the need of clearcoat.

 

As Johno has said; it's a good idea to strip the car down in order to reduce the amount of masking required. If you want a good result, you will need to spend a fair bit of time prepping the body and getting things straight. A glossy topcoat will show up the ripples and dents far more than any matte jobs you have previously done. This is why it's a good idea to spend time patiently getting the body straight.

[twinspinna]

do i need to sand between primer and gloss? or just straight on??...

 

the cars straight as so goin gloss black. think it will be overrated coz i rustled up heaps of overrated chrome parts. so the black an chrome will look the part with the 13inch minilites (black centers, polished lip) i have.

 

cheers to all big help

 

will put up pics of the final finished product.

 

:D

Edited May 23, 2010 by twinspinna

[Jono.C]

sounds great :D looking forward to it :(

[philbey]

My dad's sprayed both his corolla's with a paint called 'killrust'. It Covers pretty evenly, supposedly slows the advancement of corosion and is fairly cheap.

 

Killrust is an Enamel. It's hard to spray nicely, practice first, it's hard as shit so it doesn't get much from a cut and polish and it may tend to oxiside.

 

If it's a DIY job then acrylic is usually the best choice.

 

I'm with doogs on this, it's easier to paint and easier to get a nice finish but you can't skimp the prep work, toluene thinners may eat up any paint you have underneath it to give a lovely crazy crackle look.

[greenmac80]

have a look at my daily driver thread.

i use a clear on base system which is really easy for a beginner.

basically you use a 2 pack primer.

then a single pack 'basecoat'

then a 2 pack clear.

rather simple and easy.

[Doogs]

do i need to sand between primer and gloss? or just straight on??...

 

Yes you do. For Acrylic you use 800grit.