Brand New 5k Engine

[ROLLN'03]

Hey,

 

I am very close fitting a newly worked 5k in my wagon and was wondering is there anything needed when installing the new engine OR something that i must not forget?

 

Also, will i need to rebuild and recurve the distributor to deal with the new engine stats or will it be fine until a later date???

 

Thanks..... Any comments would be muchly appreciated!

[Super Jamie]

engine bolts in

 

get the distributor curved if you have a different cam, but it will run on the stock one until you can afford it

[Xany]

and for interests sake....mine is still running the standard dizzy (welded up weights) and a static advance of about 32 degrees ;)

[mikeys toy[RL]]

f.s. electric dizzy........

[ROLLN'03]

Super Jamie, the cam will be different, but will it run with the standard dizzy?? Ive got my head around absolutely everything except the dizzy settings and stuff......

[Super Jamie]

but it will run on the stock one until you can afford it

here ^

[ROLLN'03]

Sorry Jamie, just one of those mornings..... ;)

[Super Jamie]

;)

 

see if this helps:

 

to make the MOST power an engine can, the spark event (ignition) must occur at the point where the burning fuel will push the piston down the bore WITH THE MOST FORCE

 

all the fuel in the chamber doesn't explode all at once, rather it burns progressively, starting from the spark plug, with the flame front spreading out. THIS is why you need to set the BASE TIMING to slightly BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER, so when the piston is JUST starting on its way down, there's this massive burst of flame there to help it down, and work against the compression of the other cylinders moving up at the same time

 

if the spark event is occurring too soon, then the flame front will be trying to push the rising piston back down the bore. if the spark event occurs too late, the flame will be chasing the piston back down the bore, not pushing it with as much force as it otherwise could be. either way, the engine will "run" but you're wasting power

 

fuel burns at the same rate regardless of engine speed, but as engine speed changes, the piston will be travelling at a different rate, so it becomes necessary to light the fuel at a different time, this is why you have an IGNITION CURVE

 

the ignition curve changes the timing (ie: when the spark event occurs) based on engine speed (mechanical advance) and what conditions the engine is being placed under by the accelerator pedal (vacuum advance)

 

generally, a modified engine needs slightly more INITIAL ADVANCE, a QUICKER ADVANCE CURVE, but LESS TOTAL ADVANCE. it's said that a K motor benefits most from 38 degrees max advance, and no more. i'm of the belief that anything bast 10 degrees base advance is a waste, so if you're making your own advance curve (such as with programmable ignition) then there's some figures to start from. the yellow books have the stock advance curve in them as well, and it's actually slightly different from engine to engine

[Super Jamie]

now here in australia, we got three distributors: the denso points dizzy, the bosch points dizzy, and the denso electronic dizzy

 

the elec dizzy will give you the biggest sparks, about 30kV, as opposed to 25kV out of a points dizzy with jaycar HEI. however, you can get ALOT of different advance weights and springs and performance heavy duty points for the bosch dizzy (as they were in lots of holdens and the like) and they're more common, so having work done on them is likely to be cheaper

 

i got Performance Ignition Services in victoria to re-bush and re-curve my bosch distributor ($165 plus post), and it made a massive difference to my engine. that's what teddy's engine needs the most i think, and is a generally good idea for any motor with a non-original cam profile

 

they want to know the cam grind and the compression you're running and the fuel you'll be using. i wrote a small couple of paragraphs about my engine, including what car it was in and what carbs i had and what i was doing with it, i figured the more info the better, but my invoice just read "rebush, recurve 25-65 10:1" so i dunno

[Super Jamie]

it might be worth giving them a call or email to see if they can do a denso electronic dizzy, if you have one. if not, i honestly don't see what's so bad about points. i just had stock bosch points in mine and it never bounced even winding it off my 8000rpm tacho

 

i'll put it this way, i'd rather a proper advance curve on a bosch dizzy, than a stock advance curve on an electric dizzy

 

last time i checked, VPW were selling MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coils for $440 a set. that's about the best spark you can get on a points engine, and a pretty good price for it!

 

a set of large ignition leads would also benefit, i got Top Gun to custom make my 10mm custom ones, via their reseller in town here, they cost $80 inc freight

 

fook and i went to a place in brisbane northern suburbs to get leads made up for his 4age one day, they did it onsite and it cost $120 or $140 or something. i don't remember where it was, but he might?

[ROLLN'03]

WOW! ;)

[ROLLN'03]

Sounds great, after i get the engine in and everything sorted out, then i will post back here and tell all what happened and what prices and so on....

 

 

THanks Jamie.

[Xany]

mikeys toy: i have one out the back, when my car goes back on the road i'll be getting it onto a dyno to work out what advance it needs at what rpm so that my auto lecky can recurve the elec. dizzy......until then my points one works fine.

 

Jamie: Queensland Ignition Leads would probably have been the place you guys went to...i got my 9mm leads made up there and it cost me $50, also made on site. btw 9mm and 10mm leads don't make much difference because the wire inside them is the same, its just theres more insulation over the 10mm ones....which makes them look bigger.

[demuire]

Yup, Qld Ignition Leads.

[ROLLN'03]

Do you have to get them custom made or can you just buy them straight from the shelf???? If you have to get custom ones, do you need to give them any specific details? ;)